skidoo_j

No, the push rods for the masters are different lengths and the ends are different too. You can see the difference if you go to like autozone.com and search both years and look at the brake masters.

Because this is so well documented on other forums I'm only posting a handful of photos. Step by step and more can be referenced in my links I posted earlier for information: Output shaft of 89 ax15 23 spline: Input shaft of NP231 from 89 comanche 23 spline short: Comparison for HD vs Stock 3 vs 6 planetary The front output rear bearing that's a PITA to remove and my modified autozone tool 27059. modify by grinding the teeth to 1/16th, take a bolt and grind two sides so it will fit inside so you press the arms further apart to catch the inner bearing lip. Novak Shift cable Complteted 97 transfer case w/ AA sye this is a medium length 23 spline input shaft

I pulled these off an s10 Not sure of the year. The smaller one is off the tailgate and maybe usable on the truck side for us. The s10 bed side one is huge. They also appear to be solid rubber vs my comanche one has steel in it Here's some pictures comparing. I will update with year, I'm thinking it's late 80's or early 90's Comparison of tail gate side rubbers. The one attached is the comanche. Tailgate rubber from s10 vs my bent bed side on comanche Here's both from s10 vs the bedside on on comanche:

Thanks for the advice hornbrod. Well they say you learn something new every day. DO NOT EVER DRIVE IN FRONT WHEEL DRIVE WITH AN AUTO LOCKER ON THE ROAD!!!!! I just about killed myself and an oncoming car. I was going about 55-60 and the locker decided to disconnect, this caused me to serve into oncoming traffic. Then all the sudden it relocked jerking me back over thus making my correction a major over correction. The dogs got thrown to the floor but first hitting the door panel then dash. After I checked my pants I decided to drive back home with the CAD disconnected. And the same thing happened, but when I took my foot off the accelerator only the drivers front wheel slowed jerking me back into the wrong lane. It was a very wild test drive, but I did eliminate the transfercase as being the culprit. So now its either drive line or the diff. My angles to driveline are 7.5* at transfer and about 6.8* at pinion, so the angles should not be causing vibes due to phasing. I can't imagine 8* would cause vibes. I can hear the ring and pinion in the rear now, not sure if it was always there and just hyper sensitive. I'll put the rear shaft back in, and grease everything on it really good. and run it for a week or so while I finish up my zj brake conversion parts. I'll open the pumpkin when i convert and check the gears prior to installing the truetrac.

It came with two new "gold" u-joints. Well removing the shim did not eliminate the vibration, so not knowing if it's my desire for that to be the fix or not I will remove the rear shaft after dinner and go for another test drive. I really do hope I didn't mess up the transfercase build.

I went out and measured my angles and I'm pretty damn close to parallel. The pinion is about 1/2* up rather then down, so I'll try and remove the shim under the trans mount. I'm thinking this will bring the yoke at transfer down and they may end up perfect. It's the fastest trial. Will post results. Does anyone know what this jargon from my tom woods invoice references? BEG@46.875" T-C That number was on the tag attached to the drive shaft when I received it. The reason I'm curious is that is not my resting length nor any of the measurements I provided them. I neglected to ask during my phone call with them.

Called Tom Woods. They think it's pinion transfercase angle relationship and the reason I didn't notice it before is because the slip yoke was so loose that it absorbed the vibes. So they suggested rather than removing the rear if I can check the pnion angle vs trans angle to shaft. Wanting me to ensure they're parallel, or the pinion is pointing 1 degree to the ground more. This is really going to suck if i have to shim the damn axle. The reason I went with the single cardon axle to begin with so so I didnt have to shim the rear axle, so If it gets damaged, vehicle wrecked or if I sold it I could swap the old stuff back in and it still be drive able. Trying to be frugal seems to always bite me in the @$$ when it comes to these jeeps.

I used a ball joint press with a set of 4x4 cups. To press them out. To relieve pressure on the axle so it didn't roll and get clearance I put a set of spring compressors on both passenger and drivers with full weight on the springs, then jack up the body and removed wheels. Gave me enough room for the press and also kept the axle from rolling while removed and reattached the upper arm.

No leaks from transfer-case and fluid is full. Need to resolve it asap while its still under warranty. I have trouble with it being drive line vibrations as i was running at almost 12* and with the sye i'm about 6-7* pinion to line angle. I'll have to go out and measure all angles again to make sure that with the sye i don't' need to remove the transfer case shims. although maybe with it having fixed ends now, maybe the play in the slip yoke absorbed the vibes in the original shaft? Although I have noticed in the little bit of driving with this combo my axle wrap or whipping is almost completely gone. The bed of the truck appears to be actually staying settled.

Okay so yet again I fix one problem to discover a new, or maybe my fix has issues. What I did: 97 NP231 rebuilt with 6 planetary (correct gear cut for year), 1 1/4" chain, completely new bearings and seals through out and installed a tera 2low. I got a driveline from tom woods with standard ends (no double cardon) My new symptom: When driving at 55-65 there is a very deep growl that is continuous while driving at this speed. However if I press the clutch in or pop it out of gear it's not there. I've driven it up to 75 then taken it out of gear and coasted through that range and nothing. It only occurs while under power. I can even make it go away by taking my foot off the gas pedal. It will happen in 3rd, 4th, and 5th as long as I'm near that speed range. My thoughts are: I messed up during the rebuild Driveline U joint possibly bad? Ring / pinion or pinion bearing? I did check fluid on the diff the week before the transfer case exchange (currently less than a tank of gas on the new transfercase.) My current plan is to remove the rear driveline and run in 4x4 and see if the growl is still there at that speed but am concerned running if fwd with no slip may have some adverse effects, but I need to start somewhere another option but not one I want to do is to put the old transfercase and driveline back in and see if the noise / vibration is there. any other suggestions or knowledge would be appreciated.

Got it installed in the truck tonight. Test drive is tomorrow. I may wait awhile before i hook up the electric switch to the dash. Probably when I remove the posi disconnect and do a single axle swap.

They "damaged" the mold and decided that it was not profitable to replace the mold. Atleast that's the scuttle since 09 in the forums. It was pretty expensive even before freight. So I don't know how many they've actually sold. I look at every cherokee I see in JY for that hood.

I know it's an older thread but I don't like to open new threads if I find one very similar. I'm in the middle of doing the zj conversion now and trying to get all the parts ahead of time. So my question is The .230" spacer by tera flex works with our current retainer, Or is it in addition to the retainer from the Wrangler? Has anyone used an aluminum spacer, or other materials? I'd like to make something that can be split and slipped over the axle so I don't have to press of the bearings. Teraflex part number 86262 The Wrangler Retainer is part number 5083678AA available as a crown part or mopar Our Original Retainer. Part number 83504190 I only question it because I got in an argument with the guy at the dealership. I don't think he understood. I walked in gave him a part number and got duped with what are you working on. I left pissed and didn't order as I was not 100 percent sure.

It's the same master cyclinder. The booster on the 97 has a push rod that is a lot longer. It's the same unit, but different push rod. It could be made to work by cutting/welding or rebuild???. So it's not worth getting the booster from the 97 you could get the master off the 97 if the 95 is missing the master but has the booster bottom line. Get the 95/ 96

I think some of the rusty's off road ones do.

Very plausible, you could pull it from the 95. You will need the switch too. so you'd have to splice wires to the new switch plug.

On a 91/92 use a 95/96 dual from an xj. It's a direct bolt on, or as close to direct bolt on as possible.

It's going in a High pinion. I havn't found "thick" reverse cut gears. Who makes them?

Looking for a dana 44 carrier with 3.92 and up could be with or w/o trac loc style. Also in need of some 4.10 reverse cut d44 ring pinion.

I scored at the U pull it today In my opinion. Stopped at the upull it in Sherwood Oregon on the way home after picking up an early front bronco 44 hp axle for a friend. I left the U pull it with: Disc brake brackets and calipers off a 96 grand v8 for $23 (will need pads, rotors and the ruby bracket and I"m set for D44 Discs :)) Great shape door cards with the hockey style handle off an 88 comanche $40 set The back board under the rear window, the carpeted one $15 Drivers side comanche tail light $20 No pic because I had to stash everything from the wife as she was pissed that I got home at 5pm instead of noon. It's a b*@$£ to get those brackets off and beg for torx drivers in the JY so I could get that tail light. . I'm going to buy a set just for the truck as i left all my torx at home. The passenger was usable, but i already have a good spare passenger, i hope i remembered correctly.

88 pioneer http://row52.com/Vehicle/Index/1JTMW64P8JT255519 4.0/ 2wd Sherwood Oregon U pull it Had buckets they're gone, tailgate gone. I got drivers tail light, door cards, and rear board. It had cabin pilar lights still in chrome, passenger tail light had a chip on tailgate side but still decent, bumper, dana 35,

Did you happen to take a photo of the trimming? Where was the material removed from only width or height too? Thanks

Can a person love an upgrade? The Novak shifter is awesome!!! I've become a spokes person for them after only playing with it in my yard. It's great no more poping out of 4x4 when the motor/ trany combo twist and move. And shifting is so smooth. You don't' have three clunks. It's no wonder when you're removing 4 fulcrums and 3 lever arms. Everyone should get one of these!!!

I spoke with eaton directly and the Dana 44 elocker is still a single cross shaft like the OEM carrier. They have plans to make it a 4 pinion design like the dana 30 but he did not have an estimate as to when. He then told me it's been "in the works" for atleast 3 years. So i decided on the Truetrac for the rear. Once I decide if i need to regear I'll get the elocker at that time or may be just double up on the true trac.