Wildman

Yes, there are problems with changing out the anti-freeze. This is a closed cooling system, and it can get air locked in the block. Last time I changed out the raditor, I took the top hose off at the thermostate housing, poured the 50/50 anti-freeze into the hose, filling the raditor, and let the air out thru the thermostate housing, added the IIRC 2.5 gallons, and when the anti-freeze started coming out of the housing, put the hose back on, and then added some to the presser bottle, about 1/2 way, left the cap off, started up the truck, let it get to operating temperature, shut off the engine, screwed the cap on the presser bottle, let it cool a good half hour, and it sucked out the anti-freeze out of the pressue bottle, filled it back up to the 1/2 way mark, and never had a problem with it, all summer.

Yes, every thing from the XJ's AC will swap into the MJ, the dash and air box are the same, the air pump will fit in place of the idler pully. The condenser will fit in front of the raditor. All of the parts will work on the MJ. I have not done an AC add on/swap, other's have, maybe they will chime in on tips. But I would think the whole heater/air box should be changed out, and that's like a boxed unit, behine the dash, and with every thing else you mentioned. Well....your getting into solving couple problem, you found a XJ doner, So do it up, and do it right :D

Yes, it sets the idle RPM's are a little higher for the auto. I say to go 4 wd you need the transfer case, and a 2wd trans will not bolt up to a NP231, but you have the auto/trans case set-up from the doner :brows:

:rotf: :razz: :laughin: :rotfl2: Famous Last Words......Think I've hear that before-- J = Just E = Empty E = Every P = Pocket Just about every thing, from the "B" pillard forward are the some on the XJ and the MJ. Seat bracket are diffrent, and that's it. The drive train and front axel are the same, only diffrence is the rear drive shaft. If you can get the whole XJ, and a place to park it, your set for the 4 wd swap. But don't forget, going from a manual to an automatic has alot of changes, wireharness, pedals, shift cables, TV cable, TPS.....and so on. Very easy swap with the doner 5 feet away :brows:

That's why I explained it the way I did, I've had 2 hang up on the pilot bearing, one worst that the other. But there is no way your going to "look" at the clutch with leaving the trans sitting on the cross member, don't forget, the clutch "disk" is behind the presser plate, and you can't see the disk with out taking off the presser plate, and your not going to be able to take off the presser plate with the trans 2 inches away. You also will not be able to see the slave cyl with the trans up there. But what you saying about the lack of presser, the clutch froze up, and not getting into gear with the engine running, it sounds like your slave cyl is shot, even thought it's not leaking, it's blowen out internally. The soft line from the master cyl to the slave also could be shot, that's a $18 part that's worth replacing, with or with out a new clutch kit. I know your try to make it easy, but enought of us here are telling you the easy way, drop the cross member, and drop the trans down and out, that is the easy way. If you need to get a trans jack, get one, or borrow one, this is the easy and only way to get it done. You have gone thru this much, get a new clutch kit, presser plate, disk, slave cyl and that includes the pilot bearing, and replace that for sure. A good kit is like $140, and your done for another 100,000 miles :D Also inspect your flywheel for cracks and burns, and replace with new if you need to, don't try to get it ground down, get a new one. Also a good time to replace the input and output seals on the transmission.

Yes, that's true, the yards are cleaning up now that the price of scrap is up. Drop me a PM and I'll fix you up with what you need. Just let me know the spect's of you truck.

Yes, the cross member must be removed, that's the only way the trans can drop down, back and out. I had one BA10 (5 speed) that I tuged, pried, swore at for over an hour, just would not come back, it would turn,but not pull back, I had to use a come-along on the trans to the rear axle to "pull" it out, and found out that the in-put shaft was hung up on the pilot bearing. I just seprated a engine and trans last week, out of the truck and had the same problem, but was able to pry them apart, and could see the "wear" mark on the in-put shaft from the pilot bearing. I bet your having this same problem, so try the come-alone if you can, to pull it out of the pilot bearing.

No, you need to look for the Renix system, the HO it totaly diffrent :eek: Duner brings up a good point, about the auto XJ, staying away from the same problem your having now. And about getting XJ's for cheep cause of a minnor little problem (been there.....done that :brows: ) Also note, We never talk about striping parts for a MJ, well, unless you have to, there are way too many XJ to steal parts off of to keep our MJ's a-float :D That's what I like to do :yes:

I always thought Brazing was a "filler" type of welding, like filling in a crack on cast iron, I would think it would have strenght to the material. Have to think back 30+ years when I learned welding :hmm: Only application I've seen on the job was in hospital jobs, the plumbers' "braze" all of the pipe fittings, instead of solder. I think the old body men use to braze in pach panels, but the mig welder replace all of that type work.

That said's it all........and your right, but it think its $6.99 ;) But HF is not the only place that is selling this kit, I've seen it in other catalogs, like Max-tools, and other places. Guest I'll stick with the Buss brand from now on :roll: Yea.....fuses protect from fires, if they work right, if they don't "break" it's melt down time.

The fuse box is basely a 3" X 3" square box, male / female connector, one long bolt from the engine bay to the interior box, 2 screws on the interior to hold the box to the fire wall, and from the interior, all the wires are quick connectors. So a junk yard replacement would be the easyer way to go, no wires to splice, and less time consuming, and every thing is "plug and play" As long as you get a simular year XJ or MJ.

On an automatic, maybe, if your lucky.

Interesting :hmm: Guest I'll have to return my set :eek:

Actuality.......I hear on the news this AM that you +2 cents, if it goes any more, we'll be crossing the bridge to buy up your way :D I got to find where I hid them loonies :eek:

No, steel brake line, The steel is annealed (harden) and yea, it's alot of fun, But, once you get the hang of double flaring, no problem :D Pete's right, a cheep (HF) tool is no good, I've got a $49 set, and done 8-9 diffrent trucks with it over the past 4+ years. That's one tool you need a good one, and it will last. Also, what is the OD for that stuff????? You mean for a XJ, it's the same, 3/16" OD. jtdesigns - Nice little write up there on double flairing :yes: I never thought of the drop of oil, I like that idea. jeepthing07 - Yes, I would think that the propane torch would cut some of the annealing out of the steel line, and make it easyer to flair, I'll need to try that next time :D

........To the North members :Canadaflag: Our Mall parking lots are fill down here :jump:

That's funny, I just looked up the CPS for a 2.5 and it show's the same as a 4.0 sensor- :hmm: AC Delco #2132565 http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carco ... ttype,7196 Check out this page, to check and what to do while you wait for a new CPS- http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Eng ... ostics.htm We got to help you keep the good looking '86 MJ running :D

Are you sure there 16" tires??? I thought that all changed in the late 70's and switched to 16.5. From the video, the rims look like 16.5, 16" rims use to be the "split rims" at least on turcks. Anywho......I have a E350, and the tire store loves to see me pull in ;) Last time I bought a set for the front, 235/75/R16.5E they were $126 each, I just looked at some yesterday at BJ's (yea, that's where I go for tires) and they were up to $132 each X 6 = $792 :eek: One thing, you don't want a tire wider than 235, cause the dullys will rub. Over all, for a '88, the truck looks good. And with the 460, lots of power under the hood :yes: But plan on like 8.5 to 9.5 mpg.

Good to have you back beaterjeep :waving: Gone for a week, hehe.......now you can take your time going thru the 200+ posts that you missed :ack: I thought hospitals had WiFi set up in there??? :teehee:

I would go for the AC Delco #2132565 Reason I said to get a new multi-meter, you need something that will give a good/true reading, no guesting when it comes to testing the sensors. Plus it's a tool you'll use over and over again. ;)

All of the hard lines are 3/16" OD. Advance sells a 25 foot roll for around $26. (steel) And you'll need 3/16" X 3/8" hollow nuts (shorts) for the fittings. Keep the odd fitting at the front port valve, very hard to find. And I'm thing that you know you'll have to double flair the tubbing :yes: The fuel lines.........well, I did a search on Advance for fuel lines, '92-96 XJ, and came up with some "Dorman" fittings that you might be able to make work. The other problem you'll have is the XJ (the 4.0 HO) gas tank is in the rear, and the MJ is a mid-mount tank, yes, the lines can be cut and fitted, at the filter. I'll be stripping down a '96 XJ, but not for a few weeks, other work now. and of corse, your last or first option is........the junk yard ;) Another option is here - http://www.classictube.com/ It's a place near me, that make alot of custom and stock SS lines.

I would think a new digital multi-meter would be the first purchase, HF has them for $2.50. I would not trust a junk yard CPS, plus getting it out......not worth it. Check here - http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carco ... ttype,7196 New CPS for $32, but another member here wrote couple weeks ago that he had problems with an after market CPS, and ended up getting one thru the dealer :dunno:

:agree: http://www.rockauto.com/ If you do replace the oil pan, also replace the rear main seal (Fel-pro #BS40612) and use the one piece, rubber pan gasket (Fel-pro #OS34308R) for a more trouble free job. I know a another member here that did take off his bed, and redone the frame, and under side of the bed, it is quite the job, but, yes, he'll get another 20+ years out of his MJ :D

No spark is generaly the CPS, first sensor to check, Also there is a CAM sensor the will kill the spark, and the netural safty switch (No crank, which you found). Check this site out, tell how to check each sensor, and spects. http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Eng ... ostics.htm With you changing out the entire wiring harness, it might be worth it to take a brake, and then re-check every connector. Just one loose, not connected will cause problems. [ 0.5-0.8 VAC while cranking - I had to check, Eagle :D ]

If you doing a complete wire harness change, you should think about taking out the dash, couple hard to get at screws at the top, one bolt (loosen) on each lower side, Drop the steering column and the whole dash pops right out. Couple of couplers here and there, heater vac line and flex line and it out of your way. Your whole harness is exposed, and ECM, and you just pull every thing out, and replace. Sure is better than working up-side down and behine the dash. Oh......and welcome to the ComancheClub :wavey: