Wildman

From the bad pictures, the left rear wheel well was gone :eek: But the Meyer plow included makes it interesting :D I got to go out of town to build up the fleet again, I've gotten most of the ones in town already :roll:

The next time it don't start, try moving the gear selector out of park, all the way down and back into park. It almost sounds like the NSS is not letting the relay jump to the starter. And when you 'jumping the solenoid, your 'jerking' the NSS just enough to get in into proper place. The next item to check is the ignition switch on the bottom of the steering column.

Must be one of them 'Super Rare' Jeeps :teehee: Hey thanks for the heads up on that one Don :thumbsup: I'll keep my eye on that one, only 6-1/2 hours east of here :roll: Unless I buy the one I'm looking at tomorrow that's only 2 hours east of here ;)

You don't have to post pictures, I just want to know if you needed additional diagrams of the steering column ;) And like I asked, the type of column you have, and the 4 speed manual tells me that. I like others have found the FSM on e-bay and they sell for $65-$130, I got lucky and got a brand new set for under $100 :roll: But latter I found this site - http://www.lunghd.com/On_Site_Tech.htm Right near the top of the page, click on the 'red' link, and it will give you a place in OH that sells the FSM, Address and phone # ;) I have no idea what they sell them for :dunno: Unless some one else does, or you can call them and let us all know :brows:

Ho.....your dealing with the turn signal switch too......I looked for a link to a cut away for the column before I posted your reply, and I did find one, but it's a downloaded Zip file.....so try this - http://www.lunghd.com/Downloads_and_Links/Downloads.htm About 15 down look for - Ignition Switch & Lock Cylinder servicing Down load the link, and un-zip it, and it should help you :brows: There are 7 pages to the file. If not, I can find some other info for you in the FSM. The metal rods your talking about are for the ignition switch on the bottom of the column, and they will control the turn signals and radio, in other words, the "ON" function of the switch. Also......do you have an automatic, column shift, or auto floor shift??? Or Manual transmission??? There a difference in the steering columns. And what type steering wheel do you have, the 2 spoke style (station wagon style) or the 3 spoke sport style???? Yea, additional info is needed to "steer" you in the right direction ;)

Or at Advance Auto Parts for $5.08 http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductList ... ver+Gasket But use RTV on both sides of the gasket ;) And from what others have said, the CCV parts at Napa are about the same price as you paid at the dealers.

Ditto, and even better is when Advance has the buy one get one free on the Purloators :D And I'm glad Randy in Maine posted that link, have not seen it in some time :thumbsup:

I guest the value of the ones I saved just went up :D Ya know, at worst, you could make the trim pieces from an XJ work with just cutting them to length at the rear ;) But I also notice that the ones I removed also had thick double face tape on them. Unless that was a repair done to them :dunno:

Yes, just remove the 2 bolts on the under side of the column to the instrument panel, And the column will drop down to the seat, almost, but don't let is just dangle there, it will put a lot of stress on the fire wall connection. Are the two wires your dealing with for the 'key warning buzzer'??

And change the TPS to a Manual transmission and remove the TV cable bracket at the throttle body. Change out the flex plate with the fly wheel. And a couple other little things, But Very Do-able.

Gee......thanks.....I think :roll: But all thanks go to Mr. Eric Giordano for his fine work ;) We should all take ours hats off to him (If we ever get them :roll: ) The the real bookmark to keep is this one- http://www.lunghd.com/ Just a lot of good info on that site, just use the word Comanche in place of Cherokee ;)

The down pipes are the same for MJ's and XJ's 4.0's and most parts stores stock them as a common item ( like Advance Auto Parts) and about $34. The only difference I have see are if your keeping the 'stock' catalytic converter, it's a square flange, and a gasket set-up, if your replacing the cat with a after market, then the flange needs to be cut off the down pipe.

Me Thinks this says it all - http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Eng ... -Rings.htm Oh, and don't but the "kit" like I did, you get 20 O-rings and only 2 of them are the right ones :oops: Just follow the list in the link above ;)

AH.....yea.....that would be the right thing to do, make sure the ignition key will 'slide-in' the door cylinder :roll: If not, you can order a pair of new door cylinders from Advance auto parts for like $18 and go from there. And like I said, if you remove the cylinders, and a locksmith can re-pin on the bench, there a big difference in $$$$ We re-pin commercial door lock all the time, and it only takes about 5 minuets to do a key core. It's the time to take the lock apart, on the job, change out the core, and reinstall everything that runs the cost up ;)

If I read this right, you DO have the key for the ignition?? The less expensive way would be to remove the lock cylinders from the doors, take the cylinders and the key for the ignition to a locksmith shop, and they will be able to 're-pin' the door cylinders to the "key" you have. Should cost $6-8 per cylinder. Then you have one key to operate everything ;) Oh....and get a couple of keys cut and hide one, cause if you loose that one key........well, you'll be sol :roll: The more work you do, like removing the cylinders from the doors, the less it will cost you. Time is $$$$ (For Others) :brows:

http://www.rockauto.com/ http://info.rockauto.com/getimage/getim ... /84802.jpg $8.21

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=93290 OR http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... umber=3878 I would siphon out as much gas that you can before dropping the tank, that much gas is a lot of weight. There's a good chance your pump strainer (in the bottom of the tank) is all plug up too, causing your truck to mis-fire, run rough. Normally you shouldn't pick up that much dirt in the fuel tank unless it's getting in thru the filler neck/hose??? Check to see if the tube or vent hose are connected or rotted out and your getting 'splash up' from the left rear wheel.

I alway have Wild Ideas :D I could not even start telling you what 'upgrades' to start with, I'm strictly a stock type person. I like that way they rolled out of the factory 20 years ago, and all the ones I have done, I've kept them stock. What I will say, and others have found this too, is if you want to make this un-molested MJ a DD start at one end, and completely go thru it, I mean everything, replace every seal, gasket and whatnot. IE: brake lines, don't start with replacing one line, replace ALL the lines, and wheel cylinders, and all brake hardware. Do a complete re-build of the brake system, the time you put into replacing it all at once, will save you lot's of time down the road. And you'll have something that you know will work, and hold up. These trucks are 20 years old, the seals are all dry rotted and leaking, and I found it better to just plan the attack and do everything in one process. The '89 I'm DD now, I did this, and I can jump into it anytime, and hit the road for a 300 mile trip, with out a problem ;) From the spec's you put out there, Me - I would find a '87-'90 XJ, swap the complete drive train in, D30, And all wiring harnesses, and convert it to a 4.0, AW4, 231, 4wd all at once, and re-build all the components as you go.

:thumbsup: And a little DIY for reference - http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Ele ... _Motor.htm

OR- 3. Just order new lines or fittings you need- http://www.rockauto.com What ever you try to fix the quick connect lines, they will not last, just replace them and be done with it ;)

Yea, I use the RTV on both sides, first on the "housing" side, set up some to hold the gasket in place, then on the face just at time of install. http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDeta ... yCode=2132 Been getting it in the pressurized can the last couple times, much better ;)

Hey, that would be ME :D I love pulling in real tight to some one whom parks and takes up 2-3 spots sideways, then I just pull the cube van in real tight so they ether hit me pulling out (I need the insurance $$) or they wait until I leave ;) I love it :D

If your talking about Indian Head shellac, your dating your self :D Don't ask me how I know :roll: Plus it's only good for 'cork' gaskets, as a placement "glue" not a true sealant, and the rubber compound gaskets are much better in the long run. That's has been, RTV is where it's at, can't be beat for gasket sealant ;) I use Black (Hy-temp) RTV for everything.

Yea, if your regulator is shot, it's shot, no repairing can be done. After market - http://www.teamgrandwagoneer.com/cgi-bi ... r&catid=95 But there showing out of stock, and they were running $95-$120 each. :eek: Buy a set of the replacements, and you can buy a whole XJ just for the good regulators :brows: Also note, just the front doors from a 4 door XJ will work, the rear doors will not work (I've checked that out already) If you have a Haynes book, there's a exposed view of the window regulator in there, under "body"

Wait a minuet. The steering column is from a '85???? And your MJ is a '90???? And your wondering why your lights don't work????? :shake: Would have been nice to know that detail up front ya know :roll: Ah, Yea.........I think you better change out the column with the right year, and then fix all the splice up wires that made the '85 work "some how" And get the right year turn single unit in there. That would solve 3/4 of your problems.