Wildman

Humm.......I'll check a price tomorrow for you :D

:nuts: :nuts: :nuts: It's late, I'm tired......ZZzzzzz time.

Most of the problems I've found were at the latch lever, the under side of the hood,, center, where the cable is attached. That would bind up, and cause the cable to break (Yea, see sticky) I had one that was bent, and that was causing a bind, lube it up with some PB Blaster to break any rust, working it back and forth, and then after a couple of days, spray some white lithium grease on the lever.

Sounds like a problem with the valve body or a solenoid. How 'red' does the fluid look??? How many clicks you have on that XJ???

Weekend Entertainment on the Farm ;) :popcorn: I think this is the first time we had a Pig on the Pub????

Yea, I think the 3 bolts will hold up, hopefully it was on the right (passenger) side, where the torque push down, and not pulls up. Run it and see what it feels like, and then b*@$£ to the parts place......and if need, replace it.

You can leave the cross member on, there's enough room to jack up the tranny into the tunnel to clear the lower bolts on the mount. It just gives you more room to work, to get the tranny bolts out. Just keep an eye on the fan blades hitting the radiator, should not be a problem, but before you jack it all the way up, check it. And make sure you put a block of wood between the jack and the tranny.

I thought that too, it was mentioned as a question in a previous thread... but I don't think anyone ever responded. I am curious to find out, i am sure some one out in internet-land has tried it. Anybody? - Ben That about what I did, but I used the Tee up front, tied in the front nose line and the bottom front line together, then One brake line to the rear brake hose.

This is the '88 I just bought, and it's Red, and Olympic addition :D The metal eating termites had a field day with this one, and got fat over it :cry: Frame it totally gone......But a good parter with 105K on the clock :D

This is the same MJ that the same guy re-listed, sold about a month ago, and he didn't get the same $$ he did the fist time, and all he need to do was get it running with a new alternator (That cost him $3800 :teehee: ) http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... 76835&rd=1

High school wrestling coach started call me Wildman......and well.....it stuck. Mostly from my last name, and from all the wild things I've done over the years :roll: So out it the real world.....that also my nick name :D

The Hobart is a good machine, was independent, until Miller bought it up 7-8 years ago, and kept the name as a "lower" cost unit. I've used the 184 (220) unit, and it burns into 1/4"+ no problems. I use a Campbell Hasfield 110 unit, mostly for 16 ga sheet metal, on the jobs, hard to find 220v on a job site, and a 110 unit is great for sheet metal, and can do 1/8", and hard for 1/4" With all the fab work you do, stick with a 220 welder. I don't think you'll be happy with a 110 volt unit. At worst, borrow one from some one, and try it, and you'll see if it fits the bill for you. Not to change your mind, but check into the Clark welders, I know my next 220v will have this name on it. Disclaimer.........Above statement is my 2 cents.

Kluck on the link - :teehee: http://home.att.net/~solos_holiday/2008/_011/egg.htm

The job replacing the mount?? On the scale of 1-10, about a 2. A socket set, a floor jack, or any jack and a block of wood under the AW4, to take the weight off the mount, and un-bolt away. And if you need to do the motor mounts - http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopi ... otor+mount Pete - I read this - That's why I'm thinking transmission mount.....or motor mounts. And if you can get a Haynes manual, it's all explained in there how to check and replace the tran's mount.

It might 'look' good, but use the pry bar and see if it moves, also you might want to check your motor mounts. Basely, the whole drive train is only mounted in 3 places, the two motor mounts, and the transmission mount. The pry bar will also show it the bolts are loose, missing, or sheared off. And if your running the AW4, then the mount you need is only about $16.

The transmission is only supported at the one location, the rubber / steel mount at the cross member. To check the condition of the mount, take a long heavy duty pry bar and pry between the cross member and the transmission, you will see if the rubber is torn and not keeping the transmission in place, or letting it twist from the torque. I have seen several where the rubber is torn and letting the transmission 'twist' Depending on the transmission you have, there are 2 different mounts, one is for the AW4 and the AX15, the other, more expensive one is for the BA10. They are not interchangeable. Most online parts places have mount for the AW4, the only source I've seen for the BA10 mount is here - http://www.teamcherokee.com/Transmission/index.html You can tell which one you have from the "slot" on the right rear for a bracket to support the cat on the exhaust. That's the BA10 mount, and the more expensive one. Other sources would be a JY or some one that has a 'good' one laying around.

Go here, and down about 15 articles down is the PDF file for the ignition lock. http://www.lunghd.com/Downloads_and_Links/Downloads.htm

Try here, about the 3rd article down- For the MAP sensor- http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Eng ... ostics.htm

The automatic transmission should be a AW4, But with the bell housing for the 2.5, which can be changed to the 4.0 bell housing. You should drop CEThomas a note, he just stripped down a '91 XJ and has the complete drive line, 4wd, and 4.0 OH engine, and is close to you, and has done the complete conversion to his MJ ;)

Like a tapping / Ticking noise?? Check the axle u-joint. Also check to see if your brake pads are in good shape, and the caliper is moving freely. At worst, it could be the wheel hub.

Well glad to hear it was some thing really simple, and you got it up and running :D And we don't laugh at any one here, no matter what, your thinking of that other place :roll: Sounds like you make a penny out of the deal, after all the problems you had :D Just remember what JT Design says - K.I.S.S.

Joe - That's OK, I'll just watch the auction and see what it goes for, it the price is right......then I'll jump on it. To me it looks like a parts only truck from the bad pictures and description. (And bad spelling :eek: ) Heading out now to look at one down near your old home town :D If it's white, with a cap, then I'll know where it came from :roll: Now as I think of it, did you sell your's or you still have it?? This one I'm looking at is an '88 lwb with a 4.0, but you had the 2.5??

No....I don't have 20 Jeeps......close but a few off right now :D I only have 7 MJ's at this time, down from the 8 I had last summer, had to move the shop you know. I need one to get back up to 8 ;) I see then, good price, and grab them :brows: Then guy's like JT want parts off of them ;)

Actuality the price on the NSS is closer to $300 :eek: But there is a way to "re-built" it, there's a down load file here- http://www.lunghd.com/Downloads_and_Links/Downloads.htm But check it out first to see it that's your problem ;)

From your spec's you say you have a AW4, or an Automatic. All Jeeps in that era have a Neutral Safety Switch. Located on the right side of the transmission. The gear selector cable attaches to the left side, and a "rod" runs thru the transmission to the right side into the NSS. Yes they do, because it is a GM steering column ;) And including the metal rods. One for the Park lock out cable (auto), and one for the ignition switch.