Wildman

Man.........you have the best of luck of any one I know. :yes:

Yes, Mr. Hornbrod did a write up on this subject, and you can find it --> Here.

e-mail order sent :D Waiting for reply :roll:

You can use THIS to pull the seal, or just a screwdriver. Might be worth replacing the input seal also :brows: I'll agree with buying a clutch kit for the New Tranny........AX15 w/external slave...... Also, inspect your flywheel really good......any hot spots, or scoring.......Replace it :yes:

Here's a link to checking the TPS- Lunghd And Rockauto.com has the TPS listed for $22-$38 / your choice-Rockauto.com

OK.......I read a little of that......not all 22 pages......but just the first post was enough for me :doh: A little hard to believe, but the way the OP wrote the story........I'll believe it What a dumb @$$ :shake:

I answered your PM, and here's your pictures- And yes, check the looseness of the relay female connector, if it's corroded, you could try some contact cleaner, and apply some dielectric grease, and if there just worn out, as I mentioned in the PM, just get some off the shelf female connectors for the relays and replace them.

If your MJ is an '87, you might not have the ballast resistor, as Geonovast showed, it was OEM in '88+, and was an FSB for the '87. You might want to check the ground wire behind the left tail light, not only that grounds the tail lights, it also grounds the fuel pump, and the sender unit. Also, describe in more details what's happing when the truck quits running. This could be many other things to check, like about 4 sensors in the engine. Like, starting, dose it take alot of cranking to get it running??? that could point to a bad CPS, or a bad CPS connector. When the truck starts, dose it run at a very high idle??? When the truck quits, dose it sound like it's choking out, and sputters??? All these details help to point you in a direction to start check sensors. Oh......and welcome to the CC :waving:

If you have to add fluid every time you drive it........you got a leak. Best hope that the master is not leaking from the back side, on the inside of the fire wall and dripping on your fuse box :eek: The brake fluid will dissolve the plastic fuse box, then you'll have even more problems. Check the fluid line from the master to the slave, it's part steel line, and part rubber (soft) line, there's a good chance the line could be leaking, and your just not finding it, also, if the line is weeping, your reserving enough fluid in the slave, that you don't have to bleed it after you add fluid. Or just change it, it's an $18 part. If the slave is leaking, it's internal and you really don't know if it's leaking or not, unless you see fluid dripping out of the front of the bell housing. I have no idea why you need to warm up the truck for a half hour to get it into gear???? The only thing I can think of is the right gear oil in the tranny????? I know when it's cold out, I need to get the tranny warmed up a little, to shift from 1st to 2nd, and I'm running 70w/90 in the tranny......and I know the synchronizers are old and worn.

Hi Jeeperken87 :waving: ........and welcome to the CC As you explained it, take a look into something like this.......Air Lift suspension. This would give you the extra "lift" you need when you load up the box.......and then drop the air pressure when your running empty. I would think this would be easier to install than pulling your leafs apart. And the nice thing about the air lifts, is once you wear out this MJ, you can remove it and mount it on your next one. If your springs are really sagged out, then it might be worth the effort to replace them first to see if you gain some suspension back to stock hight, and then decide if the air bags will help you.

Yea......I'm alive :waving: .....and still busy :ack: I make time to lurk.......a few minuets in the morning :yes:

There are 2 main seal in the D30, one at the carrier on the left (drivers) side, and one on the out board right (passenger) side, past the CAD. This Link covers upgrading the front U-joints, but it also covers the replacing of the seals. The hard part is finding the correct seal for the right outboard, there are 2 different ones, and I would buy both listed seals, and match up the correct one, and re-turn the unused one.........yea, I got the wrong one the first time :doh: It's not a real hard job, order all the seals you find listed, plan on the whole day to tear everything apart, and check everything else, and replace additional parts.......and then re-assemble the complete front end :roll: Also...........the D30 only takes 3 pints of gear lub, and if over filled, it will leak out of the axle tube ends. This is a good time to replace the pinion seal too :yes:

Wow...... :eek: Sorry to hear about this :( This is one item that the big company's are chopping, and not thinking long term........so down the road, when the vehicle has a problem......it's going to be hunt and peck until the problem is solved, at the owners expense..........and not a good final outcome :hmm: Now your not thinking of selling used cars now........are you Joe????? Well.........good luck, you know how to get a hold of me ;)

Very common problem, your rear brake drums need adjusting. Check out this article on rear brakes, and near the bottom of the page, follow steps 15-18, and your E-brake should be working again........unless your shoes are shot, the follow the whole article :yes: Rear Brakes

Boy I feel very, very old. :( I was six when The Andromeda Strain movie came out!!! Now I feel even older.........I was 14 when we paid the 75 cents to see that at the show :oops: And Yes, in my novel reading mood, I've read several of Crichton novels, and the "Lost World" was very interesting :yes: Not a great liker of sci-fi, but did knock a few of his books back.

Yes, you will have an issue with driving in 4wd hi on Hard pavement This will tear out your transfer case real quick :eek: For your year of truck, you would have the NP231, and this is a "shift on the fly" type transfer case, not the NP 242 "all time 4wd" It's really for loose ground, like gravel, stone, mud.....ect, or not in your case.......Snow. The front and rear axle / tire combo do not turn in a perfect setting, and this would cause the transfer case to bind up, and more than likely, snap the drive chain......or worst. Even on soft ground, you would feel the front "kind of binding" from the front axle U-joint when turning the steering wheel, and that's common, that's how I can tell if the front axle is engaged. Not blasting you in any way here, just informing you that it's not a real good idea to drive on hard pavement (asphalt or concrete) with the transfer case engaged in 4wd, at least with our old 231 cases :roll: Oh......and I haven't chance to say.........Welcome to the CC And don't mind Chico, he's not only upset about the old couch being tossed out, he has an "over heating" issue too :teehee: If you really want to try out your 4wd, come on up this way the next blizzard we get, and you'll get plenty of fun times driving in the snow, and I'll even let you plow some snow :yes: :shake: I've seen that once or twice this year, back in July :hmm:

We just covered this couple weeks ago- viewtopic.php?f=2&t=12520 But you'll find the paint code on the firewall, right near the left hood hinge. And even thought your is a '87, and that topic is a '90- For '87- 3D or HA2 = Sterling Metallic Clearcoat CC of HWB = Dover Gray Metallic Clearcoat 4m = Charcoal Gray Metallic Clearcoat. Try them codes ;)

We just covered this couple weeks ago- viewtopic.php?f=2&t=12520 But you'll find the paint code on the firewall, right near the left hood hinge. And even thought your is a '87, and that topic is a '90- For '87- 3D or HA2 = Sterling Metallic Clearcoat CC of HWB = Dover Gray Metallic Clearcoat 4m = Charcoal Gray Metallic Clearcoat. Try them codes ;)

Yea.......I might even have 2 or 3 of them ;) PM received.........PM replied :D I think we got this covered.

Yea, the roll / light bar.......yup, I got a price in mind :D But I thought you cut your self off on the CC :eek: Problem is.........I will not have any time until after the first of the year to do any Jeep projects, unless you want to come up here and pull it your self :brows:

Yea, I think that was an ole song about a Nash Rambler.........Eagle would know ;) Here's your answer-

The OEM bumper is rated to tow a wheel barrow......empty of course :roll: It's really not a very heavy duty bumper, and if it's 20 years old.......no way. This is what is looks like with the center support section off- And yes, that's all sheet metal, no real structural steel there. If you going to do amount of towing, either find a OEM trailer hitch or you cam buy new ones on e-bay, with the 2" receiver.

Honestly, I would replace the flywheel, the "blue" streaks you have are "hot spots" and like I wrote earlier, that was my mistake. From a dead stop, 1st and reverse, my clutch chatters really bad. Also, if you check the picture here from Advance (partsamerica) you'll see the difference on a new flywheel, and what you have. Advance :doh: I had to edit my post, I was thinking 4.0, then re-read your original post, got the correct flywheel now :roll: Advance has them, and the price is not bad for the 2.5, a good investment.

If you check for flat towing, you leave the tranny in 'park' and the transfer case in neutral, that's the same thing that your doing, the only problem you'll have is the steering wheel locked, hope your wheels are straight. And with the proper paper work, you can have a dealer cut you new keys, and get a spare set :doh:

Great........now your going to have all kinds of problems when you go to change your springs / shackles on a weekly basics :shake: So.......what do you figure, you got about 2k miles and 2 country's on that quick disco???? :teehee: