Wildman

52 pages :eek: In the search :eek: There's only 6 pages on the DIY section, and this was on page #3 :D viewtopic.php?f=9&t=15146 There was a guy on e-bay a couple years ago that was selling new headliners, with the backer card, and I have not seen his add of late, maybe someone else has the info on that, I think he was shipping them out of Florida for about a buck and a quarter.

:agree: From what you wrote with the "minor" banging, it could be as simple as the linkage not set correct, and jumping out of gear. *CW - I agree with the rest of your statement, just wanted to highlight the linkage section* :D

:agree: :yes:

upper trackbar bracket bolts = M12x1.75, ~1.75"long lower trackbar bracket nuts/motor mount studs = M12x1.75 You can find the rest of the bolts/threads here - viewtopic.php?f=9&t=11380&start=30 Mostly on page 3, where Cherokee spent the time to list all the bolts as he was re-assembling his MJ :yes:

except that truck has way more than 6.5" of lift. i went with the SYE because i was having vibrations. Besides seeing that MJ in person, and if you read the thread........ On the 7th post - So for comparison, Charles's MJ had the same lift the OP asked about :D

:eek: :eek: Man.......the next time some one offers me $5 for one of these, I'll keep this in mind ;) Thanks for posting this :banana:

As one whom is not an expert on lifts :oops: I seam to remember there Might be a problem with 6.5" lift, with the drive shaft angle and the yoke binding........ So, I went searching, and fond this, from way back.......because I remember when this member had this problem. viewtopic.php?f=2&t=7219&hilit=slip+yoke Do a little reading and come to your own conclusions :D

Ozzy.......You need just one (1) in 'dull' chrome??? PM me you shipping address, I don't think I have it any more :( Oh, and glad you changed that to the "turbine" wheel :roll:

Just checking ;) You can place the 2x from the side, it would be better to hit the MC from the side, you know, left or right side, than to hit it down, that will kind of "rock" it off the firewall. I know your having problems with this, I've read your other posts, it's just that most of us that have pull one off, never had this kind of trouble, and some times you just need the little extra "hit" to break that seal that developed. You could also try to get a pry bar behind it, on the fire wall, and pop it off that way too.

OK.......I assume you removed the rod off the clutch pedal??? If you can't swing a hammer in the compartment, you could always use a 2x4 to reach it, and then hit the 2x4 with the BFH :D If by chance, and I doubt it, you do break the stud off the firewall, you can always drill it out and replace it with a nut and bolt.

Kind wish I could help :( That little 4 banger, you should just be able to tie a shoe lace on it and pull it right out with out a lift :yes: Naw, I got the day job tomorrow to keep me busy :headpop: And a bunch of my own work around the shop this weekend........if it don't rain again :roll: Have fun Big D.

Man........I thought you did this 4 months ago :eek: Now you ask :doh: I'll meet you at the PA/NY line, same place as before :brows: Their parking lot is big enough to do a engine swap.

Here's the topic your looking for :D (With Pictures) viewtopic.php?f=9&t=12311 See........alot of us 'ole timers got tired of re-typing the same thing, and Pete started the DIY section, were you'll find alot of "general information" for common up-grades and maintenance on the MJ's :yes: The hole you drill is in the thermostat backing plate, to allow air to pass thru the closed thermostat. Or, the OEM thermostat from the dealer, has the hole in it, and you install it in the 12 o'clock position (up). Also, don't use that 185* thermostat, get a 195* and install that, you'll have problems latter if you don't use a 195* :eek: And........I use the same method that Ozzy uses for filling, and never had a problem :yes:

The bottom stud is welded to the fire wall. The problem your having is dissimilar metals, Steel firewall & bolts, and cast alum master cylinder. As suggested above, you need to take a BFH to the old MC and knock it off, that will be the only way to brake the bond of the galvanic reaction. PB Blaster, although a good product, will not cut it here.

I'll give you the web site on one condition........... Lose the bold/large/blue signature :eek: :eek: :eek: My eyes are still adjusting :fs1: But, there one site for you..........http://www.jeepsticker.com/

Gee........Thanks maddzz1 :oops:

Is this the topic your looking for???? viewtopic.php?f=2&t=20381&hilit=%2796+header+panel+wiring Took me 3 minutes to find it with the "new and improved" search :D

I know at one time, Pete would re-size your avatar for you, I guest he knew the secret way of doing it :brows: I know, all this time I've been on here and no avatar :oops: I think I need to change that........just got to find a Wildman picture :D :doh: I just read your other topic :doh:

Jacking up and turning the wheel is Not a fool proof way to find the gear ratio :shake: The gear ratio is stamped on the ring gear, the first 2 sets of numbers will be the tooth count on the ring / pinion, just divide the 2 numbers = gear ratio. Note: That is something the previous owner did not do, that got you up to 4 pages here now :roll: So........lets say that the PO did install the wrong gear ratio axle, and for the past (how many years) you owned this MJ had no idea, things worked fine, until........ 1) Son should not have drove on hard payment in 4wd (could have taken the transfer case out and you still would not know about the axle differences) 2) Son might have found a defect that would have gone undetected for the life of this MJ. 3) Teaching Son that if something brakes, you just can't call Superman, and blink, and the problem is solved.......without spending time and $$$$ 4) You have learned that coming here first, and letting us lead you in a direction that just might solve several problems, with a little extra work, might save you time and $$$ in the future, by just not sticking an ole axle under there, and causing additional problems. 5) There is no reason for you to put your tail between the legs, Son had vehicle in hands, something went wrong, it broke, you jumped to the wrong conclusion (at first) and now Both of you need to get dirty to fix problem........ Just another day in the lessons of life....... So, now.......You need to find the correct D35 MJ axle, with 3.07 gears, now if you were near me, I got a couple sitting here, but your not. So maybe some one on the left coast near you can jump on this for you :D The chance of finding an XJ (Cherokee) with 3.07's in slim, because most XJ's had automatic's, and finding a MJ axle is getting harder. You can do a quick search on car-parts.com in your area / state and see what comes up. (I just did a quick search and found 3 in that area) Or.......you can upgrade to the 8.8 and do the additional work required, or, have some shop that specializes in gears, replace the ring and pinion in the axle you have now, but note, the cost is going to be about $400-$500 for that option.

:hmm: So, if that really works that way, then certain members wouldn't have to worry about getting "time-outs" and go stand in the corner anymore, because most of us would not see what they type :dunno: I'm going to have to try that :brows:

Good point :thumbsup: It is rare that a 4.0 with a 5 speed manual would have 3.55 gears :hmm: Not impossible, but not common, where it should have the more common 3.07's for that combo. Very good chance that some one else swapped that D35 in there, and caused the problems now. So........young son driving, might not have done anything wrong :eek: Might be a very good time to check the ring stamps in both the D30 and the D35 to confirm what gears you actuality do have now. Plus, it's a good excuse to change the oil in both :brows:

You need to keep in mind that a Junk yard is in business to make $$$$ even thought they were paying $50 for C4C vehicles :roll: So, the prices you'll get from there, is what "they" want to charge, and in most cases, offer a 30 day warranty. If you go by the prices we're all tossing out, that's private sales, person to person (Jeeper to Jeeper), with out the big markup, and as-is sales. Just like I can go to the pick-n-pull and get a transfer case for $60, any make and type, but my JY charges $150 for one pulled. I just need to spent an hour laying on the stones, pulling one out at the P-n-P :roll:

Then get 2 made at the same time :D Yea, I know what you mean, the only problem is, finding the right donor, both in length and with the correct yokes :hmm:

There are a couple quick tests you can do on the CPS to confirm that's your problem. http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Eng ... ostics.htm Scan about 1/2 way down that link, and you'll find the CPS info ;)

For a local source, you might want to check out Fleet Pride over on Walden, near the thruway :brows: They could make one with your supplied yokes.