AnotherOldJeepGuy

Thanks, I'll look at the raspberry choice, I don't know if I want to tinker that way, but I might. This approach is probably about what the ooma service is doing, then selling that.

VOIP is a fancy term for using the internet connection as a functional replacement of the original dedicated physical phone line. At the user end it operates the same as a classic phone line, so doesn't really work like social media services.

Looking for an alternative for my current home phone service. Currently bundled with my internet provider but at close to $30 a month it is getting pricey for a line that I don't use much, but am not ready to ditch just yet and go cell only. I have heard of one, (https://www.ooma.com/) and the monthly price is good after you get through the start up costs. Anyone else use this? Other options you use and are happy with?

More than one way, but here is how I do it 1. Take a picture on my phone 2. Email that picture to myself 3. Check my email on my computer 4. Save the picture from the email somewhere on my computer, in my case I drag the picture from the email to the computer desktop 5. Start a message in this forum 6. Drag the picture into the forum post.

Please post how it works out, and with some pictures if you can!

I have often put jack stands under the front axle but that was not chosen by any actual documentation. But when the height is sufficient and I am not pulling wheels I prefer my ramps.

You're welcome! And I totally agree, pictures help tremendously!

Thanks for the video @Airborne Janitor. Cool to see what is really in there. I am curious about a couple things and would like to hear the thoughts you and maybe the other experts on here might add just for fun. One, might a heat gun work to melt the glue and get it apart without cutting? The other thing is I am wondering how helpful it is to replace only 1 of the 4 "filters". I get that the filter you access easily may be the only one that is officially a "filter", but it seems if the other 3 "filter like" foam pieces are still dirty, cleaning 1 of 4 isn't doing a lot. Comments?

Some of my recent learning experience here which includes some pics that helped me locate and eventually check/tighten the manifold bolts...

OK, once I was able to sync up the two PDF files, and decode what colors in MY cable are (since they don't match) I repeated the continuity test and it was a 100% PASS. I remember my cruise switch was replaced under warranty once around 1995, and a second time in 2008, it is not a huge surprise that the wire colors might not match the factory part, especially given the second replacement was not done by a dealership. Unfortunately that means that if my switch is good, the failure is elsewhere. I may not go much farther down this rabbit hole since I don't take that many lengthy trips, which is really where the cruise was useful to me. But if I do decide to dive in, I'll pick up at this point. Thanks for the info up to this point.

After you do that and if you want grossed out a bit longer, go clean out you shower and tub drains also.!

Not all that late, it is a duplicate though. But 2 copies is much better than 0 copies .

Nothing specific, and I can understand your preference. I just don't know what is involved in getting the old one out and the new one in , didn't want to buy something I was not able to install and end up setting in the garage. I'll take a look on YouTube and see if I can get an idea first from that instead.

Glad to support. Please DM the address and I'll send a check. What do I put on the Payee line?

Can you add a copy of the "How To Install" this headliner to the thread?

I see posts from time to time that include images in the .HEIC format. For me at least, these are never viewable. Is there any way to add a viewer to the forum for this file type? If that is a bit out there, how else are these images viewable? In my case specifically, I browse with a Windows PC and sometimes on iPhone and cannot look at the .HEIC files on either.

Thanks. That looks helpful. I have never been that good at automotive schematics, but perhaps not is the time to improve that skill and if I figure it out, I'll post the answer!

Well crap. Just got stopped dead in my tracks. Before I soldered my test switches to the wires, I decided to ohm out the wires in the cable to make sure they are connected and not broken along the way, and in doing so I discovered that the wire colors to pin assignments as noted in the PDF do not match my cable. With the cable connector oriented the same as show in Fig 3 I find the following: The top side top blade is identified as wire #2 (Green) but ohms out to the Red wire in my cable. The top side bottom blade is identified as wire #4 (Blue) but ohms out to the Green wire in my cable. The bottom side top blade is identified as wire #1 (Yellow) and this one matches my cable. The bottom side bottom blade is identified as wire #3 (Red) but ohms out to the Blue wire in my cable. I'm tempted to believe the pin numbers rather than the colors, but I have nothing to confirm that is the right answer. Anyone have any alternate detail to validate the pin numbers, or the colors, in some other way?

Here's the schematic and the test switch. It is not going to win any beauty contest, but if I interpreted the matrix correctly, and if my switch is the faulty component, I should be able to make cruise come on with this ugly switch, but I have a couple NCAAW March Madness games to watch first...

Ah. Well the switch disconnected continuity test failed. The cells below in RED did not read the continuity expected. I am going to wait a day and repeat this test because some of the reading did jump a bit, so I'd like to see if I can get the same answer twice. Assuming I do repeat and come to the determination that the switch is bad, below is my test play to try and prove that if I did have a good switch, cruise would work, using a couple toggle switches. Leaving out Resume/Accel for test 1.

Ah-ha, after staring at the PDF long enough it sunk in (I have much more in common with the turtle than the rabbit), it does have the continuity information to test the switch. I don't understand how one would go about testing this with a 12V test light since once the connector is unplugged there is no voltage, so that is a bit confusing . Nevertheless, it does seem to show the info to test the switch itself with an ohmmeter and I have colorized it for convenience.

That "a bit tricky" part is what scares me!

@pizzaman09noted this post, https://comancheclub.com/topic/54804-cruise-control-stalk-connector-connects-to-what-connector/ and in that post you get to a second link http://jeep-manual.ru/index.php?page=78 (not a secure website BTW) that goes over testing with special test equipment (Cruise Command System Tester (AM PC-1-R)), and also links to a PDF of very similar testing (perhaps the same, I didn't do an exhaustive A-B compare of the two). What I was proposing above was a simplified initial test, just testing the switch unit stand-alone as an elimination (or identification) of that part being good or bad. So I was hoping someone might be able to confirm and/or correct that part of my proposed test since I don't have the referenced test equipment.

Well that was a complete fail! Not a surprise really, but worth going for the Hail Mary first. So I can take a guess at what I might see if trying to test just the switch itself. There are 4 wires, I'll take a guess at what I might expect to see with a switch disconnected continuity test, and hope for a confirmation or correction from the experts Red (12V?) Reference for Continuity Test (Possibly 12V when Ignition Switch is ON and connected to harness) Blue (ON/OFF?) Open when OFF, Connected when ON Green (R/A?) Short when R/A Pressed (Momentary), Otherwise Open Yellow (Set?) Short with Set Pressed (Momentary), Otherwise Open

Ready to road test to confirm functionality before attempting to snake it through the column. Pulling the wire through I could already tell it was tight, so that will be fun