AnotherOldJeepGuy

I have used about 4 cans and one spray bottle of GUNK Engine Degreaser over the last several months and there is still a fair amount of crap! The degreaser warns of getting it on electrical connections although it doesn't elaborate on what ones are and are not an issue. To this point I have been crimping aluminum foil over stuff in the area I am spraying, curious what everyone else does.

Yikes! I hope all is well now.

My 2 cents for what it's worth. I punch a hole in the top of the old filter to release the vacuum and let more oil out before removing it. I use a nail rather than a drill since I think the drill might leave shavings where the nail is just a flared out puncture.

Here is the assembled version if that is helpful. Both pics are the left side.

Yep, now if I can get Midas to honor the lifetime parts & labor muffler contract I bought in 1999, my truck will be so quiet I'll be able to hear my radio.

The lion has been tamed! Installed today - new rotors, new bearings with lots of grease worked in, new caliper springs and slide pins, and new pads just because I had it all apart and it was going to be time before long anyway, and the roar is no more! Thanks for all the assist!

I think I would take the one you are holding in your hand apart and see what is in there. There could be an actual fuse in there and if so it should have it's rating shown on it. It's possible you fine out that these are just couplers that look like fusible links. In either case the one you are holding isn't usable anyway, so nothing to loose by dissecting it!

I have new bearings in hand and hope to get back to this job shortly. I am hoping there may be a bad bearing in the lot somewhere that will be gone once I do the full swap and take the roar with it.

Ah, I have been dialog enhanced, good to speak the same language !

Some bad weather, and the annual IRS documentation prep and some misc other stuff have taken the front seat for a bit, so there is no change cause I haven't gotten to the next step yet. My limited mechanic dialog doesn't understand cup, roller or cage, but hopefully those items are addressed by replacing rotors, bearings and pads since that is the next step I have planned. Sometime over the next few days I hope to get back to this work, will post the result......

I didn't check that I could see throughout all the pages, but I could see all the pics on the first two pages. I looked at the image properties one a couple and they are JPEG, so that would explain why I think.

Yeah that is curious. It's been mentioned that iPhone can be configured to capture in JPEG, maybe that explains you viewing success?

Thanks, too much time has past to remember what I was reading at the time, but if it comes up again I'll try to remember you can do the translation!

Gotcha. I was really wondering if there was a way to make them viewable "natively" on this forum the same way a JPEG is.

Congrats on the successful extraction! Just FYI, I recently purchased new ones from rock auto that fit perfectly and did not cost much. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1133353&cc=1181720&pt=10281&jsn=6 Lubricating the ones you put in should help this from happening in the future. https://youtu.be/Yj6f8crrwZ4

I have now repacked bearings on both sides and re-seated both sides so there is no wiggle. I think the first pass issue might be that "finger tight" for me now is not as much torque as it used to be, so I had to assist just a smidge with tools. My low roar is still there unchanged with this completed and also front wheels swapped . The bearings don't look at all damaged. I went ahead and ordered new rotors (ones for which dust seal are still available) and new bearings and I'll get them in sometime in the near future. If the roar is still there then I guess I just have to let it roar until I get new tires and just maybe somehow that is still the cause (although I would have though it would have changed when I swapped them if that was it).

Ah OK, I think I got it! Will give that a try.

I like the video. It doesn't say anything about the 17-25 torquing followed the the 19 torquing? So not clear on which method you are recommending..?

The right side was disassembled cleaned and inspected, bearings repacked and then reassembled. This was the side that was originally wiggling slightly and the side I repaired threads. This is also the side I pictured that I could not get the back side seal out. In trying to do that the rubber was damaged so I know that is another problem to fix, but I am assuming the rubber on the back side seal is not immediately necessary, that is, that won't cause noise or wobble at least on 1 day. At the moment I have not removed the left side because I am pretty sure I won't be able to get that inner side seal out either so until I resolve the right side I am not messing with the left side further. What I am trying to understand is why the left side has a little wiggle now and it didn't before. I did remove the nut so I could verify the nut for the right side was correct thread, and to test the replacement nut for the right side was also the correct thread, but I did not touch the left rotor at that time, so it sure seems to me that I SHOULD be able to re-tighten the left side nut and not have any wiggle since it didn't wiggle before. If I can't even re-tighten a nut on a "non=wiggling" assembly and have it not wiggle, my confidence that I can put on all new hardware with success is pretty weak! So I am trying to understand this, and learn what I need to learn on the hardware I have before going further.

Test drive after reassembly, the same sound is still there, and it still goes away when I veer left. It may be a bit less loud or I might just think it is. I swapped front wheels but the sound did not change, still goes away on veer left. When I started this, I first checked for wiggle on the wheel with the truck jacked up, and got some wiggle top/bottom on the right side. This lead to disassembly of the right side and the discovery of the mangled threads. I did not feel any wiggle when I checked the left side. During debug and attempting to verify if the nut from the right side was good or bad I did remove the nut on the left side so I could try the nut there (it was bad or the wrong thread [potentially the cause of the thread damage in the first place]). Once both sides were fully reassembled I checked for any wiggle at the rotors before putting the wheels back on and there was none. But with the wheels on, I do feel a little wiggle on both sides now. The only thing I have done so far now is shake my head in disbelief that the "good" side is now also not good! Can't think why if the rotors don't wiggle, why there would be a little wiggle with the wheel on and the wheel lugs tight. My only guess at the moment that when I took off the nut on the left, then put it back, it somehow is not tight enough. I just hand tightened both sides, moving the rotor a bit to seat well, then just slightly snugged again with a wrench, maybe 1/8 of a turn. Do I need to put a torque wrench on and torque to some value?

I tried a bit but didn't push it too far yet. I checked at Napa and they didn't have a matching replacement and didn't even see anything that looked like the seal on the rotors I have. I looked online and didn't find one that looked like that one either, so I was hesitant to beat it up too much. I am considering just replacing the rotors with ones that have easily available support parts. Would solve the problem of finding the seals that match the rotors I have now (which will have to be replaced sooner or later anyway), and maybe next time around the search would be easier. That's where that's at now anyway. But if a part number for the ones I need should happen to show up here, I might decide to go that way. Decisions, decisions...

I am not surprised! I think you are off the hook @Pete M... if my video file can be played it will be more convincing although perhaps it will have to be downloaded to play. If not I know pictures work. I have not tried a video before. In short, the 3/4-16 Die appears to have worked much better than I expected. I have undoubtedly used up all my luck points for at least the first 6 months of 25. MVI_0078.AVI

This is not a job that is going to complete quickly (do any really). Problem is I had no way to know what was coming when I pulled it in the garage somewhat sideways taking up way more room that normally taken. And it's kinda stuck there. Do towing companies generally have anything they can use to move a vehicle that doesn't have all the wheels installed? I'd like to get it out of the garage and put back on the slab at the end of the driveway where it normally lives while this plays out so I can have my garage back in the mean time.