AnotherOldJeepGuy

I did some internet searching and didn't find the gasket or the hose , I'll just have to be as careful as I can to not cause any damage myself. I've been planning on replacing the reservoir anyway because might is bloated, so I may just do it now anyway.

My replacement blower motor is supposed to arrive soon, possibly today. So I'll ask some proactive replacement questions. 1. I assume I will have to remove the coolant reservoir and the tray it sets on to get access? 1a. Is the tray just bolted on? 2. If the old gasket is bad, any replacement already identified? 3. If the hose is bad, any replacement already identified? Thanks in advance!

Doh, I didn't think to include where I got it. I got it from NOSConnection's EBay Store. They had just one, but you could contact them and ask if they have anymore just in case it's not listed. It's a long shot, but can't hurt to ask.

I may have purchased, and installed, the last new one on the planet in April 2024 , but I can at least share the part number. MOPAR 5AH18JX8 Good Luck

Ordered from Rock Auto. With tax and shipping, about $10 less than AutoZone and a lot less than the same item from Napa....

Thanks, I see it now. It is very dim on my screen!

Mine is getting worse, so I looked to purchase Four Seasons 75089. The part images for Napa, Auto Zone as well as lots on Ebay all have one thing in common, none of the images show the existence of this hole. Can anyone explain?

Seems like you could just cut across the loose part and spray the adhesive in and push it back into shape. I am assuming the glue is tacky enough that it would cure before it came back loose, and also assuming you are OK with a line in the headliner where you cut it.

Ah OK. I am getting ready to swap out the stereo, I'll see if I can peek back in there an verify since it might be exposed with the radio out.

Are they the same hard plastic on the cab side of the firewall?

Be very gentle with this hose and especially take care not to break it at the firewall, I don't know what is on the other side exactly, or how hard it might be to get to that end!

The hose I had to fix (several times) to get air back from defrost only, is the one along the yellow line. At the firewall there is a grommet that passes two hoses, the yellow line and the green line. My green line also broke but that one did not cause the defrost out only issue, it has something to do with the heater control. As you can see I have attempted to keep it from breaking yet again by bracing it multiple places with tie wraps. But at some point it will probably go , it is very brittle.

If you wiggle the fuse can you cause it to turn on/off? That would give you some confidence the issue is there rather than just a coincidence that pulling it and putting it back actually made it come back on. I don't think you can hurt anything by spraying where the fuse installs with contact cleaner.

1 Owner (Me) 2WD Comanche Pioneer, Black (well where its not rusted or faded) 4.0L I-6 (RENIX) Purchased May 1990 at David McDavid Jeep, Eagle, Subaru in Plano, TX No Modifications other than swapped in CD Receiver, new Front Speakers and added Tweeters in door.

Here's another input in the Add Bluetooth FYI category. My older unit had no USB, but did have a rear AUX input so I installed one of these. Seems like it was a bit more affordable when I installed mine about 10 years back... It does work well though. https://www.amazon.com/iSimple-ISBT23-MusicstreAM-Bluetooth-Receiver/dp/B01984EUI6

I second the input from @JYau, I would go ahead and confirm the radio is functioning correctly independent from the Jeep connections, you need to know the radio is or is not causing the problem. I got one of these so that I could test radios withing installing in the vehicle (https://www.ebay.com/itm/145914455649), was a good tool in my case.

Sounds almost too easy!

I usually park in the sun with windows up for a while to make sure the plastic is nice and warm. Of course once the crack has started that might not help. If the crack is clean you might glue it back together with E6000, that stuff is really strong and retains some flexibility. I hunted down cure times since that is not on the packaging and found something about 72 hours for maximum, so I generally let it set for 3 days.

There appears to be an end-to-end zipper across the bottom of my bench seat. So it appears there exist at least a chance I could repair this without removing the seat back, just only the cover, that's TBD. It's on the list anyway!

Thanks for the education @pizzaman09 and @AZJeff! I suspect my 230k miles has landed my Jeep somewhat out of the "as designed" condition! I don't see the "real fix" getting done in my lifetime , I think I will monitor the filter and see if the new line I recently installed was of any benefit before going any farther.

So my educational quota is a bit behind on this, what is essentially the difference with this part compared to the original?

Mine was fragile enough that I failed to get it off in one piece to clean, but it is still available at Napa and doesn't cost much. https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NOE7151365

Thanks, that sounds doable. I was afraid I was going to have to cut the cover off and sew it back together and that didn't sound too promising. I don't have any welding gear anymore but maybe I can bolt in a brace and give it some extra support with JB-Weld.

So what are the basic steps to removing the seat back, getting to the skeleton, and then putting it back together since mine seems to have recently broken something inside in this general area (from @Eagle_SX4 pic earlier in this thread). Knowing nothing about it, it seems like a lot of upholstery sewing skills and equipment might be needed to put it back together, assuming you know how to get it apart in a condition that allows it to be usefully put back together. Something appears to be broken in the area indicated, I know because pushing down in that area is met with a very noticeable clunk, however the seat back currently looks perfect so apparently the foam is holding the shape with at rest.

A place to start.. https://comancheclub.com/topic/74577-diagnosing-engine-overheating/?do=findComment&comment=780774 [Paragraph 2 - cap leak]