dave92cherokee

Not to go to far off topic but what kind of suspension are you running in the back? I don't see any arms for a 4 link, nor do I see any springs past the wheels which seems more like and eliptical setup in the rear.

For the quad cab the front end is a 2wd beam axle from the 93 that was used and I got a set of the cragar soft 8's in chrome with the center caps. The fit over it without any problems on the front and rear 44.

I don't remember the part number but when I did that with my old XJ there's smaller 1" holes in the floor that can be popped out. I went to oreilly's auto parts and in the help section there were some small rubber plugs that fit perfectly. Only problem was the factory holes aren't usually in the position where the water pools up at. Best bet would be to rip out the carpet and pad then pour some water in the floorboard and see where it pools up at. Then you can drill a hole dead center of it so it'll always drain properly and completely.

At least it sounds like you came out of it without any further injuries.

Not sure about the steering lock as it's probably a tab on the back of the ignition cylinder but the trans shift lock operates like the ignition switch as there's a small accuating rod at the top of the steering column by the joint where it moves. You might be able to see it as I believe it runs to one of the cables attached to the shifter and can be removed from there.

Push start is easy to accomplish on the jeep, however the steering wheel lock and trans shift lock (if auto) are controlled by the lock cylinder. I would first check the rod that goes from the ignition cylinder down to the ignition switch to make sure it's positioned correctly as that sounds like part of your problem, especially since you had the steering wheel apart before this started happening.

If you're a member of NAXJA try sending kastein a pm. He started a thread titled everything you ever wanted to know about the aw4.

I don't think you'll be able to rewire the tps to provide the right signals. The TPS is a potentiometer that changes value depending on throttle position. There's a wire for power and ground and then the signal wire that comes off the potentiometer that changes the voltage depending on throttle position. Think of it like the fuel level sender in the tank, on the renix mj's it's a preset resistance value and depending on fuel level the arm moves across it to change the resistance and the output voltage, and the HO sender is backwards from what the renix is. You would probably only be able to get the correct signals from the other tps as the resistance values between the two are likely different and won't be easily changed.

The one in the avatar is a photoshop that I'm building mine based off of. Only real difference between it and mine will be mine's going to be desert tan and have 2x6 rockers.

The NSS doesn't control shifting of the trans it simply provides a path to ground for whatever gear the trans is in (auto) or a path to ground when the trans is in neutral (stick) which will allow or stop the ignition from allowing the starter to engage. As for the fuse block it's fairly easy to freshen up the contacts inside just very time consuming. You need a precision flat head screwdriver and a small wire brush. After removing the fuseblock from the firewall you can pull it back and seperate the two pieces inside to gain access to the back of the fuses. Inside each cavity where the wires go there's a little tab that keeps the contact inside the plastic that needs to be pushed over then it can be pulled out. After you pull it out clean it up with the wire brush to remove any corrosion and then just take a pair of needle nose pliers and squeeze down the sides to provide a tighter connection to the blades of the fuses. If you have any spare relay holders that were removed from the junkyard you can practice on them as they are done the same way.

I ordered bulk carpet and pad from stock interiors for the manche. I got the doeskin color which is slightly lighter than the rear MJ B pillar panels but almost matches perfectly to the 93 xj trim pieces. I've still got to get at it with a heat gun to warm up the carpet backing so it can be molded into shape. If you look on their website you can order 5-6 carpet samples if you're unsure of the color so you can compare it to the trim and interior and they ship it to you for free best of all.

In my experience that lip doesn't get to bad and when it does that means the braking surface is worn down past it's tolerances. When it's a small lip during normal maintenance/inspection I usually just use a piece of sand paper and go around it a few times. Then spray it down with brake cleaner to clean off shavings/dust.

Yes they will bolt to the hinges, that's not the hard part. The hard part is getting the striker lined up and positioned correctly on the pillar so when the door is closed it will latch and stay closed. Swapping the tracks is not an easy job either, would be easier to swap the striker than the tracks.

Are the rear springs flattened out or inverted? If they're not and you currently have a smooth ride with them maybe you should look into the shackle relocation brackets which give around an inch of lift and give the ability to control the shackle angle. All that's taken apart is the rear shackle mount bolt which shouldn't be to bad rather than taking the entire spring out. Here's a link to them and they're made by one of the guys on NAXJA and have received alot of good reviews about them. http://www.hdoffroadengineering.com/collections/frontpage/products/xj-shackle-relocation-kit

Never sold it she's still sitting in my backyard with interior in. Never figured out an easy way to get the rockers lined up so I cut them out and am replacing them with 2x6 box tube rockers. Still have to get a set of 2dr doors to create the rear doors for it but it runs and drives doorless just fine. As for stretching it to make it accept factory 2dr doors the idea of cutting a 2dr xj then the front of the mj is good but make sure when you do you leave extra of the outside skin of the rockers so you can overlap them would probably be the easiest. But keep the back part of the xj to use parts of the roof to graft onto the mj roof as the mj roof is smooth and the xj has the ribs running the length of it. The other thing you need to keep part of is the trans tunnel hump and you can maybe graft the two together.

Was just browsing through team cherokee's website and came across this: http://teamcherokee.com/rear-back-slider-tinted-glass-assembly-jeep-comanche-pick-up-1986-1992/ it's a replacement rear sliding window for the mj's with metal locking latch inside for $150. Wanted to post it up on here for anyone looking for one or wanting to convert from solid to sliding window.

For the roof line after having to patch it to finish it off I would have left it full length. Then i could have used the last few inches of the xj roof where the ribs smooth down to go into the mj's cab roof line. The hardest part was molding a new rear floor pan to fill in the gap. Now that the interior is back in I have to modify the top rails above the doors to finish that off and get the carpet to mold down to the floor pan shape as there's no mold that can be used to make it a direct fit. After all that's done the most difficult part by far is going to be creating the rear doors so the windows roll down the way I want and looks good.

Saw the first couple of lines and first smart a$$ response that popped in my head was time machine.

On my quad cab I've got xj seats up front and 2nd row durango bench in the back. They came from a 2000 durango and the support bars and mounts required alot of fabricating to get them to fit. The width is almost perfect but could be an inch shorter on each side after interior panels are in place. Because of the support bars they sit above the trans tunnel and don't offer much headroom. I'm 6'2 and when I sit in the back my head is close to the roof without the headliner in so with headliner it would probably rub. I tried fitting the matching power durango front seats in but they are way to wide and require alot of modification to the trans tunnel to even get it to remotely sit in place. Then with it even close the back is so wide that it won't fit between the pillars. If you modified the support bars on the 2nd row to allow it to sit lower over the tunnel it would be great as most of them have the center flip down console with cup holders.

The rear is the easy part it's the same as any pickup truck that you want to put airbag suspension on like s10's or rangers. There's no kit for it so it will have to be pieced together with various parts but could be done easily. The hardest part is the front, it's a solid axle with traction bar not and IFS. With that trac bar a constant length when you change the height of the truck the axle will shift from side to side which is why nobody makes a kit for it and not many if any on here have done it as mechanical physics would be a nightmare to work out properly. There are a few that have done it though and lowered them around 3 inches but any further than that and the front axle, even if it's a 2wd beam axle, will be very close to punching a hole in the oil pan.

You could always get a different amp and mount it in the cubby hole on the other side of the hatch then run the wires under the carpet to the sub then you can get one that's closer suited to the sub's needs instead of fighting with space constraints.

It almost sounds like there's still air trapped in the system. When you bled the system where were you bleeding air from the radiator or the sensor on the back of the head? Have you done a complete system flush including the block as there might be some crud clogging up some passages inside the block. You also said that all components are new with less than 3k on them what brand of water pump did you put on as some seem to work better than others.

While looking through that site I have some reservations about the bumper because if you look at the product fitment/application section for it they say it fits comanche, cherokee, grand waggy, and wrangler. I did see though that they have the rear slider window lock assemblies which I know alot of us have broken ones.

True if that's all he's needing is the trans and t-case then it would be good.

96 may be problematic as that's one of the most PITA change over years for xj's. it's when they went from obd1 to obd2 and sometimes parts don't match up and have to be selected from earlier or later model years. to avoid having to redo alot of the firewall avoid the 97+ years i would stay with 91-95 for the easiest swap.