Gojira94

Beautiful truck, I love the color combination and the original 10-slot grille. Well deserved, congratulations!

More low-hanging fruit - clean the heck out of the grounds at the oil dipstick brace mounting bolt (G105). That's where the injectors all get ground. All 6 injectors' grounds are spliced together and go to that ground point. It's also possible there's some wire chafing in the injector section of the harness along the driver's side of the valve cover.

You might try setting to knock count and give it steady throttle open to about half - not slow, not fast blip. When it stumbles, see if you get knock. If an injector or two are cutting out or weak, those cylinders will momentarily go lean and misfire.

Base fuel curve is 128, a starting point that assumes everything is healthy. The STFT will be the first thing it tries to adjust. If STFT stays high or low long enough it will move to LTFT to 'accommodate' conditions that indicate a minor/ manageable issue with fuel/air ratio. I don't think you've had enough runtime since the last battery reset to effect any change in that yet. There is a monitor in the REM that shows loop state - does it go into and out of closed or go into closed at all? Just re-read your pdf. So it is able to achieve closed loop in idle...

I updated the thread in the Pub on the cruise tester tool. I'm using a GM brake switch and I wired it wrong. My gut told me the brake switch was going to be at the heart of the issue before I started troubleshooting. Not for the reasons I thought, but I think I solved it and proved out the rest of the parts along the way. The regulator could still be bad. Just need a test drive as soon as I can manage it.

In my video, lamp 4 should not be on at KOEO, and 2 should not go out when the brake pedal is pressed. My issue was I'd wired the GM brake switch incorrectly. I'd bridged the hots for both pairs of pins, switching the ground between brake and cruise. I misread the electrical manual diagram thinking I needed to cut power to the cruise system when brake was applied. Kind of embarrassing I expected this to work lol. Epiphany came when I finally dug out the brake switch that came from the donor vehicle and I dope slapped myself. Meanwhile I'd already enjoyed testing and fiddling with the servo internals. The throttle position feedback input is adjustable. Before adjustment it read 670 ohms at throttle closed and max of 3780. I set it to the middle of the prescribed range of 280-430 ohms at throttle closed. The charge and vent valves/ solenoids can be tested with a 12V source (lawn tractor battery for me) and a bit of vacuum hose to check flow. I was happy to find both work perfectly and don't leak.

I agree that the O2 is working, which is good. The issue as I see it is that it should read very rich, given what's been observed with the plugs, if there is no leak at/ in the exhaust manifold. A (truly) rich condition being read as stoichiometric, more or less, says that the O2 is asking for more fuel to make itself happy because it sees a (false) lean condition. Short and long term fuel trims will almost certainly be very high as proof of that.

https://nickintimedesign.com/rem-gauge-readouts/ We'll want to see MAP, VAC, ºFWT, VLT (system voltage while running), TPS at idle, vO2 / mVo, A/F, vHT, ST, LT, SYN, maybe a few more.

Yep, your list looks good. I think you'll be pleased with it when you're done.

I take that back. I had no idea you could put one behind a TDI.

10-4. Then I'd question doing much more than a standard rebuild of the 60E with a few minor strength upgrades, since you won't be able to use it behind that VW motor.

When you said TDI did you mean TBI, like GM throttle body injection 4.3 swap? I read TDI and thought a diesel swap.

You’re using the original L32’s PCM to run the 60E? The torque converter clutch lockup apply strategy and shifting use one less solenoid than 95 & up. 94 had its own torque converter clutch frictions. 95 added a 4th (PWM) solenoid for TCC apply and had different converter clutch frictions to stand up to the pulse width modulation TCC lockup. 96 and up entirely different TCC apply strategy again and a removable bellhousing. A working TCC lockup apply strategy is a must or you’ll roast the trans with the extra heat from near constant slippage. An apply servo upgrade (big round plug-looking thing on the passenger side) isn’t expensive. For a 160BHP 3.4L engine you don’t need a 5-pinion planetary or much of anything else. Redline clutches and Kolene steels are the go-to for rebuilds and not a lot more expensive. if you’ve retained the 12-pin OBD1 port, here’s your scan/ monitor/ diag tool for that L32/ 60E combo: https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/v6-tech-22/scan9495-v6-obd1-utility-3-4l-f-cars-875018/

Advance has one they say is an updated parallel flow design (better performance with R-134a than an old plate style for R-12). Carquest Premium 4114.

Despite the crunchy feel of pots A and B, they seem to work... Potentiometer readings and current settings: A - Centering Adjustment MIN = 323 Ohms MAX = 4150 Ohms "10:00" = 1500 Ohms Set to 2236 Ohms (50%, about "12:00") B - Cruise Enable Speed MIN - 1.8 Ohms MAX = 3975 Ohms "10:00" = 1126 Ohms Set to 90 Ohms (about "8:45") for next test drive C - Sensitivity Adjustment MIN = 1.9 Ohms MAX = 21,200 Ohms Set to 10,600 Ohms (50%, about "12:00") All electrical tests with meter and AM PC-1-R tool show good at cruise and brake switches. Next is servo tests with engine running/ AM PC-1-R tool.

70-72 C3 Corvette spotted on a rollback leaving Coast Guard Rd in Emerald Isle, NC 06-02-26. Can't determine exact year, maybe someone else can. Wheels look like period Cragar, not 100% on that either lol. I couldn't see the hood to help identify the engine but possibilities are LT-1 350, 454 (1st year was 1970), 427. I'd expect side pipes if a big block but IDK. Really exciting to see, looked like it had been in a garage for a few years, rear bumper missing.

1) key on with cruise switch in 'off' position (lamp 4 on only) 2) cruise switch in 'on' position (lamps 2, 3, 4 on) 3) brake pedal pressed (lamps 2, 3 off, lamp 4 remains on) 4) brake pedal released (lamps 2, 3, 4 on) 5) 'resume/accel' button pressed and released (lamps 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 on, then back to 2, 3, 4 only) 6) 'set' button pressed and released (lamps 1, 2, 3, 4 on, then back to 2, 3, 4 only) 7) cruise switch from 'on' to 'off' and 'on' again (lamps 2, 3 go out and back on again, lamp 4 remains on) 8) brake pedal pressed (lamps 2, 3 off, lamp 4 remains on) 9) 'set' button pressed and released (lamps 1, 2, 3, 4 on, then back to 2, 3, 4 only) 10) 'resume/accel' button pressed and released (lamps 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 on, then back to 2, 3, 4 only)

If you want the 823, Dimar Motorsports on EBay has them but only in sets of 8 for $200. I got these from them and could not be happier: 0 280 155 702 EV6 Long Jetronic 4-hole 200cc/min 16 Ohm (mid-90s Volvo 960 injectors) https://www.ebay.com/itm/283645389229

REM is on the way via USPS, should be there Saturday. I also enclosed a new NTK sensor. It's one of the newer metal body design. I ended up not using it since I found a ceramic body NOS AC Delco 25176716 that gave me a perfect 6.2 ohms on the heater grid circuit. I measured the heater grid circuit resistance of the NTK and it's just a hair below spec at 4.8 ohms but I thought it might be useful for troubleshooting.

Ok good, my bad. And my bad for the wrong numbers initially.

If your reading is 2060 k ohms, that's crazy low temp equivalent. If it's 2.060 k ohms (2060 ohms), that corresponds to about 90*F. So, after 4 minutes run time and a 2 hour cool-down sounds about right. Values corrected in this post and post a few back.

2060 on k-ohm would be a little over 2 million ohms (2060 x 1000 ohms). My Fluke 87 has a max of 5 digit places plus a floating decimal point to work with, not sure about yours. I'd like to be really really sure about this sensor before we move on. Post a pic of your reading? Consider this scenario... Upper peninsula of Michigan in mid-February, -38* (70* below the freezing temp of water) and you've got the best Prestone antifreeze in history. The density of air at that low a temperature has almost 50% additional more oxygen molecules per cubic meter than it does at +75* (1.647 kg/m3 at -38F vs 1.105 kg/m3 at +75F). Cold start is going to require a significant addition of fuel to get the engine started. More oxygen molecules in the air, and by extension the temperature of the engine based on measuring the coolant temp, means more fuel is required for an engine to run at all, somewhere between 10.5:1 and 16.5:1 air/fuel ratio. Coolant temp in the real world wouldn't get quite as low as the air temp, so this isn't a scientifically/ mathematically accurate scenario, but you get the idea... So you can imagine, a bad coolant temp sensor can fool the computer into thinking it's magnitudes of degrees colder than it is on a 77-93* day in Texas, and drown the engine in fuel immediately, whether on a cold start or hot restart.

I'll be back in town today and I'll get the REM on the way to you. I had another 'coulda had a V8' moment. Your CTS on the driver's side of the block needs to be checked. If it's electrically open/ failed the ECU would think it's -40F all the time and would create the super fat rich condition. If you have a meter set it for k-ohms, unplug the sensor and check it. If it reads between 1.8k ohms (1,800 ohms) and 3.4k ohms (3,400 ohms) cold it's ok. If it's OL/ infinite it's bad. Anywhere above 4,000 ohms it's junk if it's hotter than 55*F outside/ cold motor. -40*F would be 100,700-ish ohms FWIW.

No dice on resetting the low speed to about the 10-11:00 position yesterday. Pots A and B feel a little crunchy, C feels smooth. I suspect the regulator is toast due to dead pot(s). When I get back in town I'll pull it back out and see about maybe ohming them out on the circuit board while turning to confirm dead spots. Long time ago there was an electronics repair place about an hour west in Durham, NC. Nothing else looks wrong with this regulator.

Unless I've missed something, everything checks out electrically with cruise control. Vacuum also checks out. The dump valve is 100% good. Just now I was looking at the potentiometers in the regulator module. I haven't moved any of the settings since I harvested it from the boneyard. Lo and behold, the low speed limit is maxed out. Before, I'd tried engaging it around 55-60MPH per my speedometer. Might have worked if I was doing 70-75 lol. I need to get some chores done but I think I'll be taking a test drive today.