White_Comanche

Everyday flashlights and worklights are dangerous to look at now, even briefly, in my opinion. High lumen LED products are common to find these days. I’m surprised we don’t see reports of kids having accidental eye injury. Also, headlights on modern trucks and SUVs are almost blinding at night.

This Labor Day weekend I have finally started a project that needed the right temperature and enough time to tackle. Last year during the election I had a bumper sticker on my back window that someone(s) with severe TDS could not handle. So I took this as an opportunity to learn how to properly sand away key scratches. Followed by base color, clear coat, and finally polishing. Take what you see below and imagine this level of deep scratches all the way around my CRV. I feel sorry for whoever did this, because I'm not hurt in the least. This has been a FUN project so far.

It means that I'm creating a product to fill a void, and I don't want to disclose too much of the process.

At first, I was hesitant in showing in-progress shots. Now with this much time into it, I doubt too many would even get to this point.

They will get $180 max for this. Bet

This is going well, and as planned. Sans one seized up Dremel tool, however.

Yes, they did a good job of slicing the old adhesive. With a little TLC, these will be golden.

Using t-nuts is probably a great way of mounting these. Thanks for the input guys. Yes, I intend to add some thickness to that bar for more support. The idea is to have that mid support completely flat. End user would ultimately dry-fit, mark and drill holes. This allows for slight variances in hole locations, bumper warp, etc. And gives flexibility on the chosen method of bolting them in.

Been getting help with a molding supply company on fabricating these. We're getting closer to identifying the best method. They're complex parts to mold, but I accept the challenge

Getting a little closer to replacing all the parts of my clutch hydraulic system. However, I still need to purchase both the slave and the line. Would this be the correct hydraulic line/hose to use on my 1986 2.5L? The two Mopar numbers (52000069 & 53004247) forward to this part. If correct will this line match up with my supposed factory line? Or will a tubing bender likely be needed? (links at the bottom) https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=2888325&cc=0&pt=2332&jsn=502 https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-48395-h38270.aspx?origin=keyword

This is fantastic! Great to hear about offering ISA motor rebuilds. This small mechanical piece is quite important to the 2.5L. Sounds a whole lot better than buying aftermarket. Great service for little expense.

This is quite the nice pair I have. The lucky one(s) who might receive these will need to take some descriptive shots. This is one photo of several that I can share for those who think they have some caps. Direct message your pictures please.

Singles or Doubles will work, just as well. I'll send detailed pictures to anyone who has either.

That pair from eBay arrived. The caps are just as described... straight, not warped, and not many imperfections. Molding and replicating these should be possible. Believe I'm almost there on how to go about mold making. Unfortunately, what ever pair I use, the studs will need to be sacrificed. I'll need to cut them out, and make that mid plastic spar flat. With that being said I am willing to exchange these with a pair that is equally MINT, but do not have the bolt studs for whatever reason. We both pay shipping, and detailed pictures will be sent of each pair. Administrators and frequent members of Comanche Club only respond please.

If I presume you mean your MJ flares... yes, try the Cerakote FIRST. Wouldn't want you to damage your plastic. It took me several attempts to understand how to blacken my CRV trim (permanently). No, I've not used that product, but have watched some videos, and heard some things about ceramic coatings. If I'd have to guess, its all about having it well washed and cleaned, while being in a cool area, and employing a smooth application technique.

Thank you! Wish I knew this torch method years ago, because my front fascia is not original. The piece installed at the factory began looking very chalky so I replaced it with aftermarket. This method would have easily restored it back to condition.

Thanks for letting me know this. I'm the one who bought that pair on eBay. May very well reach out and see if I can use them. I'll start a new topic in the near future. Keep that pair handy please.

Great, I'll start looking around for a suitable casting product. We should probably start a dedicated topic on this in due time.

Just what I thought, figured the plastic was formed around some sort of a flat piece. There's gotta be a workaround to bolt these caps to the actual bumper. I'll take a look at my caps and start thinking of an alternative. There's ALWAYS a future MJ project to think of

Guys, I just thought of something. Parts like these can easily be cast and duplicated. I have experience doing this. A pourable two-part product is surely available that cures into a semi-flexible plastic. Have not done any research, but there's gotta be something available. The question I have are these threaded metal pieces... are they actually embedded into the rubber?

Then how bout Pete or somebody buys this pair, and we all pitch in 10 bucks. Seriously