KYMJ

Can't imagine the ZJ dash working, but what do I know? Sure waiting for the pics.

Here's the one I used: http://www.elcaminocentral.com/showthread.php?t=27192

Yeah, it's doable, not easy, take your time and take pics as you go. There's a better site, but haven't found it yet.

Done it. Here's one write up: http://www.chevyasylum.com/column/tiltcol.html The pivot pin tool can be found at an auto parts store that carries Lisle Tools, I found one in my town for $8.

X2

You'd sooner see my money than S. Baldwin, but stand by your mailbox holding your breath. I'm just sayin....

KY $855, I paid $33.28 to renew my tags last year.

Big fan of Patriot Blue. When and if I get around to it, I'll re-paint my MJ the original dark blue thats on it. I like it also.

Yes, good season, I'm done already, my tags are filled. :chillin:

I'd buy it in a heartbeat if only I could.

Theres one on the bottom also.

I'm back on the road thankfully. I had pedal again after installing the last line and I had to do some bleeding. Drove for a short distance and I don't think I'll have a problem with the rears locking up. I was prepared to order an adjustable prop valve, but I'll wait awhile. I only got it to lock up 1 time and it was really an effort. I appreciate the help Eagle. I'm still clueless about this thing and what could have gone wrong. Maybe I'll find a breakdown of the guts of this load sensing valve to help me understand. :cheers:

I never liked the looks of those Microguard filters in the first place. They looked cheap. Sixth sense I reckon.

Well, I've bypassed the valve in the rear, and I seem to have some pedal. I have to route another line to the rubber line that satisfys me and bleed the brakes. I'm not feeling too well at the moment and it will have to wait a little while. Hopefully, I'll report back that all is well and be thanking you Eagle. Evindently I had a failure of the valve during the stop. Wish I had a dollar for every time you posted about the load sensing valve I turned up while searching, ha ha.

Gotcha. Thanks. Thats what I'll be doing tommorow, provided I can find a plug in this town. I don't like the idea of not having the bypass feature, but I need to start somewhere eliminating stuff.

The one I found the hole on was the line going to the sensing valve. It had the bigger nut that I had to cut the new line and double flare. The other one goes to the "tee". Pretty sure that was the only one leaking, But as soon as I saw how the lines were routed I was going to replace them both, (that is my usual habit) before I had to replace the other in the future. The pedal bottomed out after the blowout, and still does. I want to say I had maybe 20%(if that) braking on the way home. The best thing I can think of now is to plug the front outlet of the dist. block and run the other line I replaced, which would be the one connected to the bottom hole front of Dist.block, to the rubber line to the rear brakes. Thats from my searching today, believe me, my head is spinning. Is that the procedure for bypassing the load sensing valve? I've got to start somewhere. I have no spare vehicles anymore. Edit: I know the line blew 1. Fluid in vicinity of hole in line. 2. I found the hole. 3. I can find no evidence of other leaks. so, I know that for sure, just not what happened after that.

Brake warning light is not on. It works however when thr parking brake is on. According to your bleed instructions: open a caliper bleeder apply brakes-light should come on. Never did. The line literally squeels loudly when pumping on the brakes during bleeding. Had me stumped until I held the line and it muffled the noise somewhat. I checked the wheel cylinders. I replaced the M/C, because it leaked afterr bench bleeding, don't remember one doing that. Also when checking fluid after bleeding, there is a mini gusher in the front resevoir and it fills back up a little. So, I thought It might have blown the seals, evidently not. Still the same. Something happened other than blowing a hole in the steel line, but I haven't a clue. I know the lines aren't crossed, I did one at a time. The only reason I did both is because of them running behind the tank. Details of failure. Light turns yellow as I approach. I slam on brakes to catch the red light. Pedal goes to floor. I coast through light, luckily as it turns red. Consider getting tow truck. Short distance to home, luckily back road, no cars and emergency brake working now, so I decide to nurse it home. Go slow enough that engine brakeing, minimal hyd braking gets me home. Get ride to Oreillys and bring home enough steel line and rented flaring tool to replace brake lines. Atempt to bleed brakes like I've done many times on both my Comanches(never used the FSM procedure you posted). Never get a "pedal". I've gone through 3 qts of fluid. Finally give up.

Only thing I can figure out is the piston is stuck in the distibution valve. I'm just pissin' in the wind and deader than a doornail. Don't reckon I can bypass it with the piston stuck or unstick it? The new line going to the rear sensing valve screams bloody murder when you pump up the brakes. I can honestly say I've never seen anything like this and I'm absolutely stumped. Valve not available so I'll have have to find a used one.

Do you bleed the by-pass at the tee or the dist. block? I bled it at the rear. This really has me stumped.

Busted through a brake line yesterday making a panic stop. Replaced lines yesterday. CANNOT get my pedal back. Bled brakes mutiple times including the procedure for the load sensing thingie posted by Eagle. Replaced M/C, something seemed amiss with it. But, still the same. I'm at a loss, any suggestions?

I think it was originally listed at $6995. So, maybe there is some more wiggle room.

S10, I suspect. Fits great, except a little shorter than the cab. It came on the 4x4 I had. Very handy, but I want a fiberglass one like Fiatslug's. Everytime one comes up for sale it's 500 miles away.

I've bought them for 3.99 at the pull a part. I gave away the last one I had.

Yokahamas are great tires. I have a set of AT/S on my Comanche.

I've bought 4 of the e-bay manifolds over the years. The only problem I've had was the riser tube on one I bought for my 89 had to be bent slightly to line up. They've all held up otherwise.