howeitsdone

Looks like your transmission is shifted slightly. Is it a custom mount? The screws are holding in the TC shifter gate and dust boot for the shifter. 7 in total if I remember correctly.

If you leave the key 'ON' then it should spray out fuel when the schrader valve is pressed in. When it's off, it should mostly trickle out at a rapid pace. It only takes a few seconds to build the required pressure.

Did some minor maintenance today. Got the parking brake working and made a deal with a guy on FB for a hood and some interior pieces. Ill go pick those up tomorrow.

Yes and equidistant from the backplates.

Dunno if this was ever shared previously (probably has) but I had a good laugh http://www.emailsfromanasshole.dontevenreply.com/view.php?post=107

Another easy test is to turn the key to 'ON' and make sure you hear the fuel pump. Then turn off and depress the fuel rail valve to ensure it built pressure. If so, then either your injectors aren't firing or you have no spark. You can also remove a spark plug to see if it's covered in fuel.

My left turn doesn't shut off after bringing the wheel back and I can't control my brights. Would it be this switch below? I already tried replacing the turn switch and it didn't change anything regarding the left blinker. The brights seem to be working on a rod and switch down the column, but the stalk doesn't grab it. Standard DS-572

You can try disconnecting and reconnecting the CPS. Sometimes working in that area of wires can pull it loose.

I've bounced on the hitch a lot actually lol Most folks have the driver lean because of the gas tank. I'm practically Carolina squatting with all new suspension (Front is almost 10k miles old). Tires measure equal from ground to top. I'm sure I could swap the leaf's sides, but wanting to see if there was any other suggestions before doing a warranty return. My fear is them settling lol. I don't want any lower or I'll need to go SOA and remove the AAL just to compensate for whatever the issue is.

Yes, shackles are both correct. There is no visible damage to indicate an issue.

As title suggests, my springs seem to not be sitting correctly. I measured from the bottom of the fenders to the ground (all relative and yes there will be minor variances) and get 36.5 on both fronts, 35 at driver rear, and 34 at passenger rear. Very noticeable when looking at the passenger side. New leaf springs were installed yesterday because I thought the old ones were sagging and causing the issue. There isn't but a couple of hundred pounds in the bed plus topper which is fairly spread out. Any ideas?

Yeah they had a couple but they are really picked through at this point. They've had them for years.

Lol. It's more about having the real estate to store it so I can get all the parts off! I already have 3 vehicles. 1-in 1-out is now in full effect.

Oof, I'll be in Asheville this weekend. I'll be telling myself "NO" the entire time... Seats look great.

I'll be adding a leaf from each of my originals into the new ones when they get here so they'll be 4/2 (I have an AAL already). Don't see the need to pay for the Metric ton set. Might have to have a shop re-arch the originals but still coming out way less than new 3/2 springs @ $200ea + $140 Shipping or Rusty's 4" for the same price. @Whitaker717 are your springs aftermarket or originals?

Just bought 2 for $288 shipped. Hard-pressed to find lower. They've got 3 left. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09HZ329KZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I modeled one, but I really don't feel the demand is there to justify producing. Just need to model the cushion holder and add the hardware. I'll be keeping an eye out on these listings though

Wanted to note that I was following @Airborne Janitor's DIY up top. I'm not familiar with the different gens of Expeditions so there was one for sale near me for $70 and turned out to be a gen 3 (07-17), which is 3" because it doubles as an impact bar. Not the end of the world, just way longer to do since I only have a grinder. And I had to open it up 1/2" inch on two sides. So if you follow his post, then you'll need a gen 1 or 2 (97-06). Brackets were different too. Didn't take many pics as I was powering through. No finished shots since it got dark as I was still welding.

Ya gotta use the force, Luke. It won't come off easily the first time. Those injectors are married to the rail and you gotta be the neighbor to divorce 'em. Best to yank it front first and then rear, or vise-versa. Remove the injector electrical connectors, depressurize, remove send line, remove return line, take off vacuum hose from regulator, and then there are four 1/2" bolt heads that gotta come off. Replace all o-rings and make sure to get extra for the send/return lines. The use Vaseline or silicone lubricant when putting back on and it will be smooth as butter.

Are these things really turning to gold?! I don’t need one, but damn.

The pedal assemblies are completely different from early to late models. Fortunately, early model clutch/brake pedals are relatively inexpensive. It's the late-model assemblies that can be pricey since there are a lot less. I would also recommend a new master/slave regardless if you're gonna do the work. The late model MC bolts up differently. What are you looking to do with the 99? Meaning, are you swapping the 88 completely to 97+ or just using driveline? Also, just take the driveshafts to a local shop and have them do the work. Will be much less than ordering online. I don't see why they'd fail an inspection. The 86 front should bolt right up. If you did a minimal lift you wouldn't even have to shorten it on the MJ. Plenty of write-ups on swapping different parts all around this site and Google to help!

Picked up this 2000 XJ a couple of months back for $1000. The original idea was to transfer and convert the truck, but I decided against because of the timeline I was working with to get the truck back up and running. Now I don't know what the heck to do with it. Debating on selling the WK2 and just making this into a DD. Could be a bad idea, but the WK2 is only 2wd and can't be taken everywhere I want to go. The 5.7 is so nice though! I suppose I could fix it up and sell it too, but where's the fun? Guy I bought it from said it just died on him and wouldn't start again. After a quick grab of the multimeter I determined the CPS. Replaced and fired right up. I haven't had time to fully dig in yet since the truck was priority but here's the interesting stuff I've found so far: Hood release cable broke so they added hood pins... yeah Looks like a JY swap motor. Has white writing on side of block Blown head gasket Head is definitely older model - Has plugged temp sender port and no bracket for coil pack. Leaking radiator & either ATF or Motor Oil in there AW4 had almost no fluid in it Heater core bypass Almost all of electrical connectors don't have tabs Leaf springs are flatter than Earth No parking brake PO said had death wobble at about 40mph Rockers have rust The interior is actually in pretty good shape! That was one of the reasons why I couldn't justify converting the truck. That, and it's pretty much stock other than a botched motor swap and front bumper. Oddly, though, every single interior bulb was removed and placed in the cupholders. I noticed the rear hatch doesn't quote close all the way without a little force so my guess is the lights stayed on and killed the battery but they couldn't figure it out. Dunno, but it'll be an interesting find either way! Potential ideas for plans: Restore 2in lift, bumpers, and keep mostly stock otherwise 3 or 4.5" lift and a mild off-roader Open to other ideas on what to do! I'm not cutting it all up...

Yes. That takes care of drivetrain anyway. The clutch/brake pedal is different in late-models too. Please don't put the 3.55 D30 on the 01 if the rear is 3.73

Honestly, if you're going to go 7-pin, and since you're already splicing, then I would recommend at least a 7-way connector (DT 8 for example but 87-90 came with 7-way) to clean it up better and help in troubleshooting if anything ever went wrong. Plus the whole thing can easily come out if needed and you don't have to deal with cutting a thing if the trailer harness acts up.