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howeitsdone

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Everything posted by howeitsdone

  1. howeitsdone
    Exhaust is in! I almost can't even tell it's running sometimes. It's just the Walker pipe and the $16 muffler from RA. Fit is tight at the hanger, but these butt clamps do a great job.
  2. howeitsdone
    Anyone with the "Motor Manual Guy" Manual know what this means? Says to reference SH 47,49.
  3. howeitsdone
    Not that I can tell. Would be the front-passenger not rear-passenger, right? Obviously easier to adjust the rear. I'll have to jack it up and spin the tire to observe any excess drag tomorrow, but I certainly don't hear any.
  4. howeitsdone
    Not the easiest as over time corrosion builds up, but I take a trim removal tool and get under the bottom piece to lift it up at the edge closest to the rear. From there I grab it and pull up. Might take some force, but make sure to lift UP and not OUT. The rest will be easier since only the bottom piece is held in by 4 metal tabs.
  5. howeitsdone
    She went topless today! Also had a much needed reworking of some lighting harnesses. Removed a very $#!tty trailer harness wiring job and reworked some grounds. Still missing turn signals and reverse lights. Tomorrow, I’ll continue to troubleshoot those two issues. I’ve put 25 miles on throughout the neighborhood and only had to adjust a few things so far. Still very scared to take on main roads, mainly because I put it together but really because I keep fearing that I missed a bolt somewhere even though I’ve checked. That, and it pulls right. No idea on that one. Only thing I can think of is maybe the LCAs aren’t long enough. Toe is spot on.
  6. howeitsdone
    Swapped both sockets and seems to have fixed the grounding issue but still no blinkers. Hazards do work. I’m getting 12v at the fuse panel when either left or right is engaged, but nothing at the grey wire at the connector behind the headlight. Relay works in the hazard position so I know it’s good. My guess is something is wrong with the wire attached to the blinker’s left terminal before it gets merged with the hazards.
  7. howeitsdone
    Making it sound easy! This is the next step in my process and I'm thinking I'll just let it take a year or two lol That color looks awesome too!
  8. howeitsdone
    By "Parking Light Sockets" I assume you mean these? Because they work great. Or are you referring to the turn signal light sockets? Verifying so I don't buy the wrong thing. Also, what in the socket itself goes bad? Isn't it just metal contacts?
  9. howeitsdone
    I've got a weird one here Hazards work correctly when light's are off. Once I pull the knob to either running lights or headlights they begin to alternate. The left blinker cluster light turns on once I pull the knob into either position as well. Turns off once I place the stalk in the left position, but stays on for middle and right position. If the knob is set to running lights and the turn signal is in the left position, the left blinker light illuminates solid. Once I pull knob completely for headlights the blinker light goes off. I've swapped light bulbs from passenger to driver and no change. Swapped the 552 fuse and no change. Cleaned the C101 connector. Cleaned terminal connections.
  10. howeitsdone
    This is the one I used: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08FDBJRWH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I paired with this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N7CO50E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 As mentioned though, if you don't want to buy and would rather rent, do what AZJeff says about the 4-wheel drive adapter kit.
  11. howeitsdone
    Finally put the OBD reader on there. Says running lean, but I think I have an exhaust leak so I'm actually running a bit rich. Idle fluctuates from about 500-720 which would make sense because too much fuel is probably being sent, thus bogging it down. Either way, too much fuel based on the trim, it appears. If I've read correctly, that's the voltage of a bad O2 sensor which could also be the problem. Otherwise, everything looks in order which is a huge relief!
  12. howeitsdone
    The PO of my truck actually used a beer can held on by wire to try and cover a hole. Just got my walker pipe for $50 shipped from Oreilly's and ordered the basic muffler off RA ($16) while I figure out what I want. Should be here this weekend. Most folks seem to use Walker for the pipe and then I suppose it's all about preference for the muffler. Mine is currently dangling
  13. howeitsdone
    Adjusting the rear shoes was key for me. Once those were tightened, it became a lot better. I didn't know there was a Comanche procedure for the bleeding though. I bled clockwise from the driver. I pumped the pedal a few times and then applied hard pressure while someone bled at the wheel. Probably took 4 or 5 times average per wheel. When I got to the passenger rear it took a few more, like 8-10 times because we were also adjusting the shoes and the pedal still wasn't quite right. Still travels a bit to stop and I'm not going to lock up the wheels no matter how hard I press, but they work fine.
  14. howeitsdone
    I may just do that after if this Prestone doesn't do anything. Bottle says to keep in there for a couple of days and drive it for a few hours. What I've been doing so far is just rinsing with water and that's done a decent job so far, but like you said, need to scale the rust. I've got a new thermostat to go in after it's clean. Wasn't planning on replacing the water pump since it's working fine.
  15. howeitsdone
    The dusty ole’ girl took her maiden voyage. Probably a whole mile round-trip But I needed gas to keep flushing the coolant rust. I’ve flushed at least 5 times and still looks horrible. The steering is very loose and something in the chain (or multiple items) needs an adjustment. I still have to replace the turn signal module in there too. Also changed the plugs today. Whoever did them previously gapped to .06! Not the end of the world, but certainly contributing to a little rough running. Huge progress nonetheless, even if it is just a half mile up the road to the gas station.
  16. howeitsdone
    That's a fairly clean truck right there. Fogs look nice.
  17. howeitsdone
    Why didn't you already have it?? I should have gone that route instead. Now I'm $25 into the 4.0 tank & it'll be about another $25 with shipping to get the 2.5. Trying not to throw any more $$ than necessary at this point. Thanks! I thought about it, but I'm not so sure I'm keen on drilling holes out quite yet. Once I get everything running properly that may change, but just trying to get it healthy first.
  18. howeitsdone
    Radiator is finally in. Took a lot of convincing for that right side of the support bracket. Something is keeping it from wanting to be there and I'm not sure what. Still need to head to NAPA and grab the hoses that go to the core. Although, since my core is bad and I don't feel like taking the dash apart right now, I'll just jump the two hoses together. Maybe I'll get the urge to do the core in a week or 2. Couldn't really figure out a good mounting point for the 4.0 bottle. It's zip-tied to the pulley where the a/c would be. Could potentially put in spot where the old one was, but unsure what I want to do yet.
  19. howeitsdone
    Come to the mainland and do mine next
  20. howeitsdone
    Got some tires today from FB. Went with 31x10.50r15 since I wanted avoid the rubbing on stock wheels. Fits well though. I’ll have mounted to the turbines on Monday. Also removed the radiator. New one should be here tomorrow. Still need the overflow tank to make it complete, but that’ll be here Monday. Tried to replace the rusted out driver door today with one from the JY but didn’t realize whoever took the window regulator had no idea how to remove rivets 🤦🏻‍♂️ So old door going back on.
  21. howeitsdone
    You’ll want the 1.75” for the D35. I didn’t have rear shoes because they were actual literal dust so I couldn’t measure. This post was my answer:
  22. howeitsdone
    This three pictures of the rear are where they're supposed to be. Where they both connect should then go up to the rear proportioning valve unless deleted. That's the photo that's needed. I agree with just getting a stock or Wilwood valve for the front if that's your issue, but I don't see fluid in the photos. Where is it coming from exactly? Brake fluid doesn't really evaporate so it'll stick around where it's leaking from. Maybe get someone to hit the brakes so you can get a look.
  23. howeitsdone
    For reference, both of these parts confirm fit in a Comanche: OSC 98024 OSC 98732
  24. howeitsdone
    Bump. Trying to understand if the different fitting size will be an issue. Based on this diagram, it looks like a seal could cause issues so maybe I can just replace. Otherwise, wouldn't this eliminate the need for a hose adapter when converting?
  25. howeitsdone
    That's pretty! lol I haven't removed the dash yet, but this seems pretty telling already. Do the fittings go all the way through the firewall or connect to the hard lines in the firewall itself? I'm not concerned if the hose in the bay needs an adapter.
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