JOMJ87

If you remove the outer shaft you can't mount a wheel to drive so no you can't. I didnt realize that is what you were asking the wheel mounts to the axle shaft as I explain before sorry for any confusion Hell I made be confused as well. Cole

hell it was 80 here today and I hate this crap. Cole

No if your just doing u-joints don't even mess with the disco stuff or the inner axle just pull the outer one the same way you pulled the other side. Cole

Ill see if I can find pics of my homemade job. But just for now I used PVC pipe and then some brass fittings and bought the filter from auto zone. What I did was take the pvc and cut it to length removed all the old airbox stuff ran the pvc in the same location. Used the rubber piece on the TB and the stock clamp to conect the pvc to the air intake hose. Then took the brass fitting and drilled a hole in the pvc and threaded it in to connect the smaller air hose to that is on the airbox stock.then thru the filter on and used gas tank hanger (the metal srip with holes all in it) and fastened it out of the way. OH yeah it was on a 2.5 but the same sort of design would work with a 4.0. Cole

So are oyu asking how to pull the axle shafts out of the case. If so you have to remove the disco controls on the axle and then take you fingers and slide the center piece out through the tube after the outer shgaft is gone of course and the short side is the same as removing the outer shaft on the long side. Hope this helps. Cole

Well thats partly true but if you do brake the C-clip style usally the axle shaft will slide out the tube cause nothing holds it in anymore. In turn all the brake parts and anything else in the way is also destroyed. Just a thought on the c-clip. And I agree in not doing any upgrades to a 35 including a gear swap. I ran 4.10s on mine and still am cause I wasnt waisting my money just to turn around and get a Diff. axle to be put in later. I would just save the trouble and cash and start hunting you will eventually find one you can deal with....Plus with 33s you will prob want to go with 4.10s or If it were me 4.88s so you don't have to worry with it anymore. Cole

A cold air or what I havee done the cold air and designed a snorkle assembly just didnt go thru with it. Let me know which. Cole

Congrats....Was it the Injector???? Cole

I thopught he mentioned 42s in another post Pong is going to be one badarse rig when you finish it up this time around. ;) Cole

It is prob 3.07 or 3.55 But if you look on the tag on the diff cover you will see it on there. Cole

Not to try to tell you what to do But IMO I think the one thing you might want to remove and smooth over is the stock flares. It would give it a much cleaner look after it was lowered. I hate how they look on the blue one pete posted Specially if the tires will tuck under the fender then I would really remove them Just a thought. Cole

I will be at dollywood one of the days cause my nefews are going with us and they want to take them for some reason. I guess ill freeze my @$$ of cause its 70 degrees here at shaw still. Still excited to go I love it in that area. Cole

NO they want fit I believe Pete tested this and I seen Your name was cole somewhere in the forum i guess its a small world. Cole

Shaw is great I have a buddy up there from High school at Seymour He is CE readiness the same as me. He might have tought your NBC class?? I like shaw cause I am only about 4 hrs from my home town so I don't have to see the family everyday but I can see them when I want. I am looking to PCS somewhere though I think I have done enough for Shaw and Its time to move on Hopefully to Guam Cole

I think he just bought a long block see above post caus ei searched and found nothing But i did scan it quickly. :roll: Cole

I don't care if you want to match my paint Hell talk to Spence from Jeepsticker and he done all the decals for mine with exception of the start which was a great paint job if I can say so myself. If you need some pointers I have a few as in. Not to threadjack but go ahead and buy the gallon paint that you find on the internet (not CARC paint it is very bad for you) but use that and buy a cheap spray gun and do it that way. Mine did work out OK but I have my issues with it. I just think it would lay better from a gun then from the can from what i have seen.IMO Cole

OK with just these replys I have decided to go with the Said 4.88s since I don't want to go fullwidth YET (well i don't have the means to do it how I want to yet) and thats a yet as in It WILL be done with fullwidths somethime in the next few years. Thats is when I get my second MJ to slam down low and make a sort-of rat rod type rig out of for my DD then the truggy fullwidth will get done. Anyway on the motor side I would be getting computer and all so the MPI shouldnt be an issue and yes mine is TBI. I have even consider getting a reman motor bored 30 or 60 over cause they are the same price and ill get a little boost out of it. QUESTION 3... Has anyone totally rebuilt there 2.5 and I am talking pistons and crank and cam and all the exterior stuff as well??? If so how much did it run and where did you get the parts. I am wanting t5o make my trucks drivetrain as good if not better than new is why I am asking. Cole

Thats the exact oppisite of how my truck looks..... :cheers: ......Its all shiny and got chrome wheels and I have Flat paint and black rock krawlers...Plus all the body of the Pic is in tact love the paint though... can't wait to see the final project Cole

naw most of us came from TN...lol :P KY is a beautiful state but i would go back to TN anytime just because thats where i born and it pretty down there too. I am from NC and stationed in SC and I still am planning to move to east TN when I retire from the AF (17 years and counting :D J/K) but i love TN I am actually spending most of my Christmas break in Pigeon Forge. Also you are really close to Tellico plus the mountains are wonderful (except the tourist :headpop: ) Just an Idea for ya.... Cole

OK I am stealing this idea on a question thread.... ;) .....Its a good idea so here are two for ya to start... 1..Will a newer (like 91) YJ 2.5 bolt right in with all the usual engine swap stuff (i.e. wiring and stuff). Also it has an AX-5 so would mine work with it or did they change them in the early 90s??? Also if I don't get this motor should I rebuild or buy a new longblock??/I found them for around 1100 so I think it would be cheaper to buy one. 2..I just got a D44 rear and I want to go as low as i can with gears....The 44 will take 5.38s and the HPD30 will only take 4.88s I would like to get the 5.38s. Soooo my question is what axle is a good swap to keep same bolt pattern and match the rear width??? I know a D44 out of a rubicon would be Ideal if I can find one and I also know about the LPD30 taking the 5.38s but i don't want a LP front cause my lift and everything would constitute a new D-Shaft and might cause some Binding??? What would another option be??? Thanks for any reply's just planning what I want to get when I get home. Cole

Well the thing is When I get back I am doing a complete drivetrain rebuild . So I am not wanting to mess with this one until I get back. My buddy left me the keys to his truck and YJ so if I need to I can drive it :brows: while hes deployed. Thanks for the great info on this I just wanted to see if It might last me a week or so more. :cheers: Cole

AX-4 i believe is it for that one. Thats what I HAD. Cole

just so I don't fubar my AX-4, I'll try with my buddy's old Frog F-150 5spd,. :rotf: I'm not effin up MY truck... lemme use yours! Thats the best one I have heard in awhile. Just don't force it if its grinding bad and nothing should be hurt. Hell you can always tell your buddy that your foot slipped during your shift if you brake it. :brows: Cole

Rev throught the gear and once you need to shift slip it out of gear when it feels like its going to fall out, then in a quick and fluent??SP?? motion go to the next gear. Hope that helps but its kinda hard for me to explain just get in your truck and run it down the road revving it up and letting off as you do it slightly tug on the shifter and you will feel it hit the soft spot. Its also harder and not as good on it doing it as you down shift it but its possible with a little revving after you slip out of gear. Cole

Look here at the diff and you can see easily. Thats the best way to tell. http://www.randysringandpinion.com/DiffList.aspx?SearchMode=Make&MakeID=7&MakeName=Jeep+%2f+AMC&ModelID=393&ModelName=XJ&Side=Rear