Big_Mark

Not normal no. Perhaps a stretched chain?

Those clamps are SOOOOOO handy! Glad you are closing in on this. I suspect they over arched the springs in manufacturing. Driving around with weight in the back is not an acceptable solution.

Andy if he measures the way you describe his new springs are going to measure longer because of the lift (top spring measured flat will be 3-5" longer than stock) eye to eye is the way to measure here as that is the cause of the shackle position. Good call on the SOA vs SUA pin position, that's worth looking into.

I agree with the others, it looks like the new springs are not the correct overall length. I suggest measuring the stock springs, eye (bolt sleeve to bolt sleeve) to eye to get an overall spring length for a stock Comanche spring. Then (huge PITA I know) take the same measurement from the new springs. They should be really close to the same lengths (eye to eye) if not do the maths then ask Rusty's if the spring length you receive is the correct length for Comanche lift springs. is correct. My guess is a manufacturing mix up occurred.

Then a trip to eastern WA over the Naches pass (on the trail) which is 200 miles round trip with 50 or so miles of it being hill climbs, tight trees in high desert conditions. As it turned out my friends decided lets do Naches first then go to the river second. Sure why not, it’s all or nothing anyways! Great news the Comanche did great, even with 20 year old BFG AT’s (not Kos even) and open diffs. Here is my Jeep buddy Rob three wheeling on a spot I just flexed over (longer wheelbase + 6” lift help’s lol) Here’s the gaggle of parked trucks at the top of the entrance hill climb to the Naches trail on the West side. I always have to laugh at any wheeling pics from the Naches, they always look like a bunch of trucks parked on flat roads. Trust it’s not flat getting to that point. Here’s my camping mode. I bought the tent a few years ago. It works great and I finally figured out how to set it up and strap it down. Granted a proper ground tent is easier to set up but this is what I have these days. And it keeps me from going “night wheeling” which is good for everyone involved! One of the things I fixed after the Naches trip was my lighter outlet. It would heat up the lighter but wouldn’t charge a phone with the adapter, so I had to improvise, cause that’s how we Jeepers do! BTW the fix was to bypass the wiring harness, once I jumped to direct power from a vacant port in the fuse block (there are lots, some are switched some aren’t!) and a ground to “Cruisers” under dash ground point it, AND a proper disassembly and cleaning of the outlet it works perfectly now. The only “issues” I had on this trip were: 20 mpg on the highway / 10 mpg on the trail, that’s not to shabby nor is an issue, I was really surprised how well it did on the hwy, 5th gear is good. Pretty sure my tcase chain is stretched, whenever I was going up hills there was a rotational click, click, click that went faster in low and slower in high range that disappeared altogether in 2wd. At some point I was driving on a logging road in 2 wd, but the road had fresh loose gravel on it so I put it in 4wd high range, well the clicking got louder and louder then BAM! Something wadded up then let loose. The good news it I still had 4wd and the noise stopped (or was greatly reduced) so hmnn…… is it broken? On the way home I pulled over to the side of the pavement to air up and discovered a weeping drip coming from the passenger side of my radiator (near the top) so I topped off my coolant and drove home watching the temp gauge closely. Good news is no news! I made it home without issue and the weeping seems to have stopped. This is my next project. Here are some views from the trail as seen from the cab This pic has Mt Rainer in it, but it’s obscured by clouds. Top of the ridge heading to Funny Rocks, yeah its off camber No comment, just beautiful! More beauty! Dust, it was dusty boy is it nice having doors, windows and a windshield, in my Scrambler I had none of that and just ate dust! If you want to go to Naches you can access it from Western Wa Hwy 410 leaving Enumclaw WA, head up 410 (towards Chinook Pass) then just after the “town” of Greenwater make a left onto forest road 70 for about 10 miles then there’s a left fork (unmarked) where you drive up 200’, air down then turn right up that steep entrance hill! From Eastern WA Yakima to Cliffdell on 410 then head up Milk Creek Road to get to the ridge.

Well I’ve made some improvements since the last post. Lots of little things, dash lights, wiper switch, ignition switch with key, passenger door power window switch install (it works!!), beat dents out of body, doors, painted rust, floorboards and the interior is back in! But the latest major improvements are a new exhaust and catalytic converter installed and hung high! The old exhaust was just cobbled in and would BANG BANG BANG on the floor when I went over bumps in the road, had no tail pipe and superheated the floor under the passenger seat because the muffler was 1” below the floor board, which is not good for setting groceries on. Now it’s properly hung, and it all dumps out under the truck right in front of the rear axle with a tail pipe. The muffler is attached to the body in 3 places, I love it and it is much quieter. Then I discovered there was a leak in the windshield lower drivers’ corner, my plan (being cheap and all) was to rock the windshield out of the frame, apply some “goop” then set it back in. Well, that didn’t go so well, and the 2 cracks that traversed the windshield turned into a web o’cracks over the whole thing, so I got a pro to come out and drop in a fresh one. Seal is fixed so my dash will now stay dry, and I can see out of the front of my Comanche proper. These two things were done right before my two maiden journeys, which were to be overnight to the Suiattle River out of Darington WA. This is 100 miles away from my house, and is mainly forest and gravel logging roads.

Keep the Dana 44, and keep plugging away!

I am finally putting my interior back together but discovered I only have 2 1 panel pin left. When I say panel pin I mean the white plastic pins that are used to attach the panel under the rear window to the body. Anyone have a part number to help me find this part quickly? Once this is in I just need to whip up a headliner and get a carpet or rubber mat replacement for my carpet then my interior is back together! Thanks in advance, here's a couple of pics Overall Length is 3/4" Front/flat view Side/slot view

They said they don't make them or have them in stock. But they do have the manual sliders available. You would think the motor was used for other versions, like the Chevy pick-em-up trucks etc. but the guy said "no we don't make them anymore" and wasn't really into figuring out what the do have that might work. Oh well I guess I expect to much or something? (sarcasm) He did say I could probaly find them in a junk yard and that I just need to keep my eyes open YEA RIGHT lol oh well I have better things to $pend money on, like a new windshield and Exhaust!!

I just called them and they don't have it so if anyone finds one or has one lemme know!

I've had the same experience and even replaced the wiper motor and those bushings. I read somewhere that it might be the part of the wiper assembly where you attach the wiper arms to (the spindles?) So today I pulled out the assembly, and hosed the spindles down with PB Blast, worked the oil in, made sure the new bushings had grease in them, and worked that all in. When I put it all back in the truck there was improvement. I wouldn't say vast improvement but I can tell the difference between high and low now so that is somewhat of an improvement over the barley moving at any speed I had previously. try it!

Here's the link for future reference Looks like ol'Jeepy found another way to $pend my money

Awesome thanks Gjeep!

In my Jeep I have a PWR SLIDER - C.R. Laurence Co., Inc. assemble but I do not have the motor. Before I go on the hunt I thought I'd post up here to see if anyone has this, if it is stock and if someone can help a downed bro with a used/working motor Here is the gear in the Mechanism where the motor gets attached to Here is the mechanism assembly Here is the cable where it attaches to my rear window Here's the MFG info on the mechanism Any info is appreciated, even a part no would be helpful, thanks guys!

Nice! thanks neighbor!

I got mine from O'reiley's no complaints, great quality, powder coated grey and fit perfectly I bough new rollover valves from MTS since I don't want to have to change them later (one tank pull is enough)

That's the way to quarantine! Glad you're feeling well enough to work on your Jeep, keep it up man!

Peanut gallery idea, I've used JB Weld to fix scratches in cylinder walls before with great success, perhaps you could remove crank, clean the scratches, jb weld the defects, sand off excess JB weld then try again? With that said, it's a lot of work to remove the crank, and if the crank is out of the engine, why not just take the crank to a machine shop to see if they can do something about it? Also I've worked on 2 different 258 engines, 84, and 85 both had rubber RMS, no ropes. Good luck brother, sorry your fix turned into a new problem, that is the absolute worst feeling: "I broke my Jeep fixing it"

Hi all, I have what appears to be two aftermarket light fixtures on my rear bumper and am wondering if this was a factory option or if it was a dealer installed option. I know the hole is buggered up really good but the cuts are well done and are the same on both sides of the license plate holder. If it's a factory option I'll replace the lamps and get the switch working. Thanks in advance!

This is that tank I bought from Oreilly's Measurements from the description: Length (in): 29-3/4 Inch Height (in): 13-5/8 Inch Width (in): 17-1/4 Inch Capacity (Gal): 18 Gallon I'll go measure the old tank if you still need other dimensions, this seemed like the most efficient way to get you the info you requested.

Here's some pics of my gas tank with the new pump sending unit assembly installed in the Jeep (well mostly, there was some in and out and adjusting of the tank straps and is why the E brake bracket is hanging) Here's the new tank on the bench before it went in Here's the original tank without the pump sending unit assembly Hopefully these pics help you identify your tank. this is the 18 Gal tank

I'm using the MTS pump and replacement sending unit. The only issue I had was how the pump is held onto the sending unit assembly. I was able to overcome the issue with 2 hose clamps Other thank that is was bolt in as is and works great! If I don't use the hose clamps the pump falls off/pushes itself off the output hose (fuel to engine). With the clamps all is good. I think the stock assembly has some kind of metal loop/keeper assembly that hold the top of the pump in place, sadly the MTS one doesn't have that part.

Caught Between by The Screaming Trees

I don't have any experience with travel trailers, I just wanted to chime into say, every time I see this thread pop up I think it says "Who's got experience with TIME TRAVELLERS?" and it cracks me up! That is all, please carry on with your regularly scheduled programming...