pizzaman09

Yeah, I'm down for anything with a manual transmission, which is one of the reasons I'm not too hot on side by sides. Second thing is that they are way less expensive than a side by side with a fully enclosed cab. There seems to be a place in Indiana, PA that imports them, I might have to take a day drive down there and check them out.

I recently used a set of these on an 86 F150, it's absolutely amazing that companies offer replacement sheet metal parts like these.

I'm building a house this year on a 34 acre parcel of old farm. I am soon going to need something to use as a utility vehicle and for snow plowing duties. So what's everyone's opinion on Japanese Mini Trucks, (Kei trucks)? I've really been eyeing them up as they can be had with 4x4, rear lockers, and a dump bed with a real heated and air conditioned cab. If I get one that's over 25 years old I can even road register it in PA. The Suzuki Carry is at the top of my list. I'd like to mount a snowblower on it that is designed for side by side utility vehicles.

Darn cool looking truck. Those wheels go with the theme so well.

What that spring does is prevent the throttle from being jambed hard open if you push the pedal past 100% throttle open. With the way that broke, it will have zero ill effects as it will actually still compress the spring when pushing the pedal past 100%. The only thing that might concern me is if the cable flops over and starts pulling at funny angles and gets bound up or wears out, I'm not sure that would happen.

Those will looks sharp. I am partial to the 1" wide white stripe for my Oldsmobile as that is what it left the factory with in 1999.

Sure sounds like a fuel delivery issue to me. Since you've done the filter, the pump and pump wiring would be my next guess.

That must be it as I looked at my vin build sheet and it had zero mention of AC. I know the previous owner of the truck told me that the dealership that owned it had recently fixed up the AC at the request of the dealership owner's wife that liked driving around in the Comanche.

To close this out. I ended up replacing the fan clutch and the electric fan switch. I found out that someone in the past had hacked the fan switch into the lower rad hose instead of plugging it into the radiator location. Notice the plug hacked into the rad hose.

Google maps lets you view all years of Google streets view, it's an option you can select to show the year from their database. For example the property I purchased last year has data from 09, 17, and 19.

I design elastomeric parts for helicopters for a living. That harmonic balancer doesn't look to hot to me. Actually is looks a lot more worn out than the one I replaced on my Comanche last week. I am not sure it's the source of your chirp but it does appear to be worth replacing. It's not too bad of a job, just rent the harmonic balancer removal and install tool set from your local parts store. Also don't forget to take the washer off that's under the main bolt, I fought that for 30 minutes...

I also have not purchased from Coker but I know my grandfather did when he purchased a set of metric Michelin TRX tires. For years I've purchased white wall tires for my Oldsmobile, they are definitely getting difficult to find. I'm down to MasterCraft and Kuhmo who still offer them in the size. I usually order from tire rack or easy tire or some other random place then take them one of many different shops to have them mounted and balanced. I love my local Flynn tire, they are happy to mount and balance tube tires on the wire wheels of my Austin Healey. There is also a local shop that has a road force balancer, I like going to them for my BMWs as they are particularly sensitive to tire balance, that shop doesn't even sell tires, they are a suspension and alignment shop who specializes in making anything ride super smooth. I've never come across a shop that cares if you brought in loose tires or purchased from them, they all charge between $60 and $80 to mount 4 tires.

Looks like a fun project. That C101 looks atrocious, good job getting rid of it.

It's pretty unlikely to hurt to try bypassing it. I bypassed the coolant heated throttle body on one of my 90s BMWs with no ill effects.

Before I replaced mine with the Pete M recommended, I did clean up the brass contactors in my original lights with a Dremel and a mini wire wheel. It worked but structurally my lights were too broken to use.

I have tested and found the viscous clutch fan is not any good.

What temperature is the fan switch supposed to kick on at?

The reason vehicles have heated manifolds or throttle bodies is to prevent icing. It's a very common issue on piston powered airplanes and can also be an issue in cold weather on automotive engines. The air flowing through the intake brings down the temperature of the intake walls, and ice can form. This can cause issues like stuck throttle plates and restricted airflow. The heat is basically a defrost system. The air flowing through is going so fast that it does not pick up an appreciable amount of temperature. When you spray cold atomized fuel into the intake charge it has an excellent evaporative cooling effect, if you want to keep your intake charge cool, keep the fuel cold and make sure your cold air intake is actually pulling in fresh cool air.

I am going to test the fan clutch today, it is free when cold. The coolant bottle on the passenger side fire wall is original, I tried two replacements last year and both had pinhole leaks. I have both a temp gauge and a Renix Engine Monitor. The REM confirmed that it was very hot, 235 def F. In the winter it had no issues controlling temperature at the thermostat set point, just now that it up into the 60s to 70s out. I did confirm last year when checking all the sensors that the coolant temp sensor output is correct according to the factory charts for resistance vs temp. I have not witnessed the e-fan kick on without also the AC compressor kicking on.

About 10 minutes of idling it just keeps getting hotter until steam starts to come out at the weakest point which appears to be the upper return line of the expansion tank. Turning on the AC to kick the electric fan on seems to help. I did find yesterday that it was about 1/2 gallon low on coolant, I've topped it off and it is behaving better but I'm not convinced the problem has gone away. I haven't had a reason to let it idle for long.

I'll have to check that out. Excellent shape

Now that warmer weather is here, I have found that my Comanche likes to overheat when idling. 1990 4.0L Renix with an all original closed cooling system. Has about a 1 year old water pump. I changed the harmonic balancer yesterday thinking it may be slipping and not driving the pulley but that wasn't it. It cools back down if I rev it up to about 2000 rpm and even better once I get moving. A couple days ago it got up to 235 deg F according to the REM and started to steam a little from an expansion tank fitting. Any thoughts on where to start?

You did well and broke it good it sounds like. As a broke college student, the cheapest fastest fix would be to find another BA10/5. They are cheap because no one wants them but it would be a direct bolt in without having to source or fabricate all of the AX15 specific parts. For cruising I actually liked the smoothness of shifting the BA10/5 in my previous Comanche over the AX15 in my current one. However I'm glad I have the beefier transmission. I know this didn't directly answer your question but I figured I'd give my 2 cents.

My guess is that it isn't from a short but due to the extra load that is on the engine fighting the torque converter. That said, there could be many things that cause a miss, I'd start by checking that the engine has a good ground . Then I'd probably check if the header bolts are tight to reduce the possibility that it's an intake leak. In my experience, a miss at idle or low load is usually the engine running super lean.

Replaced the harmonic balancer this evening as it overheated yesterday at idle and wasn't charging like it should. Now all is back in order.