comanche12

I just pulled the proportioning valve(height sensor valve) out, got old rusty crap steel line nuts removed from proportionvalve but can't remove those nuts off from brake line splitter block/distribution block. The Lines already broke off so i decided to get new one. Where can i find one like those kind of block? Or i don't need it and buy the adjustable valve http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G3905/ to replace the old proportioning valve and the splitter block? :dunno: picture of my damaged splitter block/distribution block-sorry for blurry picture

hmm what did you do before start the engine? replace any parts? just try get more info. like maybe got wrong kind of distributor? ecu? flywheel? I'm just asking to see if you/someone did something before try to start the engine?

working on rear brake proportion lines. i think i gotta to replace most of those lines and proportion valve too. is there any way to test the proportion valve? edit: or whatever its called... height sensor valve, proportion valve, etc.

I used have that rocket before! I never realized that rocket was named comanche :oops: anyway here back to game comanche grill?

nope but gotta love how insane cops r when they keep ramming up. plus gotta love watch how tough comanche is when cop keep try ramming the comanche :thumbsup:

i always want to go to moab someday but I'm still scared... my mj is not even ready for this trail.... yet

that tester would be come in handly to me someday. :agree: electrical tape wrapped union sockets are really come in handly as I had experience with it for years. :thumbsup: AND :agree: Don't cut the floor. Its easy to reached the Crankshaft position sensor. P.S. That time was when I'm able to reached the CPS was when the front DS was dropped and jeep was already lifted. I would test the spark first before do the CPS. :thumbsup: only think simple before do things.

sweet mj and btw-you live close to me so we should greet someday :thumbsup:

that switches would be perfect to use as heated seat switch ;) but oh well maybe thats my future modification after get bucket seat someday. its easy to add heated seat pad though. btw sweet diy of cup holder :thumbsup:

ordered water pump inlet since my old waterpump was custom made copper pipe welded on. so I'm ordering new inlet. :nuts: soon on the way to pick the s10 front caliper brake hose up from napa :thumbsup:

currently working on water pump and thermostat. brake system for rear axle is paused until rotor and caliper bracket has arrived... Ill post up the interesting pictures after work on cool system parts. :nuts:

working on water pump and thermostat... you guy won't believe me what i just found out when i just pulled the thermostat housing... there NO thermostat at all! :eek: :nuts: . why hell pervious owner never get bother to add it to keep operation temp proper on engine??? good thing that I'm gonna to replace thermostat and water pump too! :thumbsup:

ha alright important see the pic anyway :roll:

ah sucks i don't like to replace battery. solar powered or charging would be sweet though. not surpise about sticky haha. :roll: but atleast where pics of your bed with new coat of bed liner? I wanna see!

rear custom brake caliper brackets had arrived! :banana: but damn gotta return it back because this brackets mount holes isn't match with s10 front caliper mount hole length. :doh: hope they will accept return and replace to correct parts

no pronblem with my dad's 04 blazer v6 RWD i have same problem with my 07 impreza. its tend active too early while I'm gentle press the pedal. so i removed the ABS fuse. its brake alot better on ice and snow :thumbsup:

ordered custom brackets for rear brake caliper :banana:

:agree: good job! I'm curious about that led light near your tool box, is it charge by solar panel or use the battery powered? its look pretty awesome :thumbsup:

LOL i don't mind give it try :brows: but.... :shake:

well yea they r worthless but they r design to fire 3 time per cycle which 3x spark per cylinder so you will burn cleaner= better fuel economy and performance. I have MSD box for sell- $100 OBO. pm me if your interesting also i remeber some where info that i hear fords oem tend have 2time fire per cycle edit: oem tend look like this-one time per cycle MSD 3time per cycle

thanks and knew it. thats where my square tube was welded on. :doh: stupid previous owner Ill make new one.

great info! I'm was thinking about route the tube to engine bay to join/merge with front axle hose then attach up with my future snorkel i don't really know yet though my friend have the clear tube too and haha yea its worthless after get dirty haha also what about the picture of your nipple location on your rear axle? thanks again! :cheers: edit: after drill then tap. what about those tiny metal shave that fell into inside axle tube? Use Q-tip cotton to swap it out? also what about proportion valve? its kind bent and missing the rod and no bracket on axle to hook so should i make one and get new rod?

Hm can you take a pic for the location where nipple at the driver side of the differential on top of axle tube? Won't weld over it will be bad? I don't know if he fill the gap or just weld the square tube above on it. Autozone have that kind of nipple for breather hose? Also where should the hose route to for able go offroad without get water/mud/dirt go in? Thanks again Pete :cheers:

yeah i just measured its 5 on 5.5 lol your correct! its 31 spline as i counted-TWICE :thumbsup: bearing-its look like roller. i gotta look at it closer and make sure. hold on edit: bearing is full cover, looked like seal bearing but doubt also can you tell me where exactly is the breather hole? i still can't find it. look like the square tube is welded over it i already know that my axles was waterlogged, no breather tube at all. front done install but now rear. still can't find the stupid hole to adapter :fs2:

ah alright I'm sure that he did grinding the flares for clearance. soon I'm gonna pull my axle out to recount the spline and check the type of bearing and measure the bolt pattern. hope its 5x4.5 so i can bolt on the explorer rotor on without modification