JYau

Is there something different about the tachs for 4 cylinder engines? I threw one of these clusters that had the tach in mine that is a 2.5 and seems to work fine.

I'm currently prepping for the same exact swap. Since the spring perches have to be changed I bought a kit from RuffStuff, and I found another thread on the CC forums highlighting that these perches come with 3 centering pin locations 1" apart. I'm going to use the 1" offset on the perch to compensate for the extra inch of length on the C8.25 so I don't have to cut my driveshaft down. Here is the thread I'm referring to:

How much extra were the Military Wrapped version? What was the shipping cost?

If I remember correctly, installing them was not a simple bolt on. I had to drill a hole on the top of the bumper to feed one of the screws into the bracket and cut a slot out somewhere on the side of the bumper for clearance. I can get pictures if needed.

I'm also interested as I have been looking for a good one. Pretty much every time I ask about one, the owner doesn't know if it works or not. I tried repairing mine as well but it was so badly corroded the mechanical relay was seized and I wasn't able to fix it.

Are there any alternatives for the 2.5 if the Azzy kit doesn't work?

Have you checked the starter relay? See this thread:

I don't think the ETR fuse is the fuse that provides power to the radio. From my understanding it's purpose was to supply 12V to a motor for the retracting antenna for some Cherokee models. I would suggest removing that fuse if you don't need it. I had an issue where there was a drain on my battery from that fuse. I'm not sure what wiring or connections are in place in the harness for models without the auto antenna.

Thanks for all the suggestions. I do not yet have the 4WD drive shaft, I was hopeful that if I found one I could use that rather than getting a custom one made, or re-sizing the current one I have. Also, during the swap I thought it would be convenient to run the old rear axle while I prepped the new axle for install and it would all just bolt right up. I'll play it safe and get one at the right length.

I'm in the middle of converting my Jeep from 2WD to 4WD, I picked up some later model Cherokee axles that were already regeared to 4.56. The new rear axle is a Chrysler 8.25, the current one I have in there now is your typical D35. From what I've read on this site, is that the Chrysler 8.25 is about an inch closer to the t-case than the D35. Suggesting that a shorter drive shaft is required. My question is, is there enough slip in the drive shaft where it doesn't need to be shortened? My Comanche is a SWB and there is no lift in the rear, although it appears that my springs have no noticeable sag in them as well. Thanks!

I used to have an 86 with the 2.8L, and mine was terrible on gas, for me I would get about 150-175 miles per tank, not 60! I did some basic carb work and it didn't get much better. I never saw any signs of gas getting dumped anywhere. I attributed to the bad gas mileage to a combination of the carb and poor shift points set on the 3 speed auto.

I have the same plans on my radar, I haven't gotten that far yet but here is what I found relating to the 4WD indicator: https://wrangleryjforum.com/threads/4wd-indicator-switch-for-np231.27704/

Were the calipers removed and put back on during the swap? Check to see if you accidentally swapped calipers as there is a right one and a left one. Is the Brake Warning light on?

I know you're looking for information on these wires and you're not an electrically inclined kind of guy, but the honest truth is that it's incredibly difficult to use pictures to sort out wiring issues. That is why we always refer to electrical schematics and diagrams. A picture can only detail so much information. For example it's impossible to show, even in a few pictures, how the headlight's 12V cable gets it power from the battery. In between there are fuses, switches etc. it can't capture enough detail to explain each part of the circuit and how they connect. But, which mods from Cruiser's list are you trying to do? What problems are you trying to solve right now? There are a lot of people on here who can chime in and point you in the right direction. You're going to have to be more specific so we can help.

You can cut the spring perches off and move them to the bottom, or buy a spring perch set. I'm sure you could find a new generic set that could work. You should also be able to re-use the spring plates as well.

Actually axle is different too. On a 99 it could be a Chrysler 8.25, and if it was a Dana 35 the spring perches are on the top of the axle where the MJ is on the bottom.

I've done a lot of wiring in my career and when it comes to automotive electrical it is not by any means easy. It requires a lot of patience and you'll definitely need to consult your service manual. There are some sections in that manual that describe how to use and read the manual, don't overlook those sections as there is some important information in there. At a minimum you're going to need a multimeter to check your wiring. You'll be using the meter to check if a wire is shorted to ground or if it the wire is making good contact to the node that it should be connected to. To fix all the wires you basically have to identify which wires are bad, they can be good but shorted to ground or the wires could be blown open and need to be replaced completely. This can be difficult because each wire will have a crimp that seats into a connector etc. The service manual spells out which wires go where and they are all color coded. You're best bet is to disconnect everything and sort them out. For a big project like this I would even recommend tagging wires with labels to help keep things organized. The one by one measure the wire, is it shorted to ground? Does the wire connect to node A and node B etc.? Wiring can be tricky, don't make any assumptions, one wrong wire is all it takes.

Yesterday I found my battery dead and I traced it back to this fuse (ETR). I wasn't sure what it was used for but looking at the wiring diagrams, the ETR fuse is used for the power antenna option of the radio. I do have the AMC digital tuning radio that I got out of a Grand Wagoneer and that might have come with the power antenna feature but my Comanche certainly didn't, so I popped the fuse out and the drain on the battery is gone. Not sure why the ETR fuse was populated in the first place, maybe the last owner put it in not knowing what it did. But, that being said if you don't have a power antenna it's probably best to remove that fuse, better to leave one less chance of some electrical issue killing your battery or causing other issues.

I just pulled my beam axle out of my MJ since I'm doing a 4WD conversion. It's available, I'm located in MA.

Wiper Module had been found and purchased.

I'm not sure on differences within the part numbers, but here is the part number for the one with the older style relay: SF8956000428

I'm very handy with a soldering iron and electronics, I actually tried to repair the one I have now. But I found out that it was a much older style module with a mechanical relay that was not in a potted package. The relay had an exposed bobbin where the magnetic wire got corroded and failed. From the video you sent and what I found online, there is a newer design with a different board layout and a potted/packaged relay. That one is much more realistic to repair. To repair the module I have now would require me to manually rewire the bobbin with what looks like a thousand turns of 36 AWG magnetic wire.

I'm not familiar with the GM10 connector, but I've swapped my antenna and cable before and I believe the connector was a Motorola connector. I could be wrong but it looks like it's a standard connector. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motorola_connector

That answers the question then, thanks! It's not surprising that the manual and autos use the same harness, but to me it is a bit surprising that there isn't some plug for that connector to plug into even if it doesn't go anywhere.

I've done the same thing to my jump as well as adjusting the odometer. It is doable and from what I remember there is a small C-clip you have to remove to pull the number wheels out. Careful with that as you don't want to lose that clip.