derf

To be fair, the Peugeot is weaker than a Dana 35...

Watched a guy in a stock TJ trying to climb a small ledge. His spotter just shouted "Give it more gas!" A rev of the engine, a loud pop, and the shaft started to walk out... Moral of the story? More gas is never the answer with a Dana 35.

Nice. I've had half a dozen FSJs before. FSJ Network and IFSJA are two forums with lots of knowledgeable (and a few not as knowledgeable) people, along with many swap threads. If it has the column shifter and you're going to swap in a 4L60E, converting the column shifter from 3 speed to 4 speed is pretty straightforward. They all have GM steering columns already and swapping parts in them is easy. Otherwise, a floor shifter is the way to go.

I'd bet that the 3 pins from the controller attach to the spade connectors sticking down in the front. You'd probably want to fabricate a sheet metal bracket to mount the plug.

I'm restoring a Warn 8274 and replaced the solenoids to keep it authentic. If I didn't really care about appearance, I'd get one of those cheap solenoid packs. Either way, I'd pick similar parts that don't have a Warn markup on them.

Most of my clocks set themselves these days but I set the rest. Mountains or beaches?

It could be that it acts a little like a torsen limited slip differential. When I rebuilt mine, it didn't have any clutches or anything like that.

I don't see that wording on that page. In the bullet points: four-wheel-drive, high (48/52 differential torque-biased-drive) four-wheel-drive, high (locked, part-time)

The 242 is an evolution of the 228/229. It got rid of the vacuum operated 2WD/4WD switch. It also added a part time high range. One manual shifter goes through 2HI/4HI part time/4HI full time/neutral/4LO part time. And it has no limited slip in full time. Fully open differential.

Double check that the body of the ball joint isn't loose. Change them out often enough and the hole gets enlarged. That can cause issues.

With the engine running, there's more pressure when you turn the wheel and you're more likely to see parts moving that shouldn't. Look for steering box movement relative to the frame. Look for deflection of the steering shaft at the pitman arm. Look for deflection in the joints at the axle end of the drag link and tie rods. Look for the track bar to move relative to the axle and frame. That includes the bolt/tie rod end moving in the bracket. Look for the track bar brackets themselves (both ends) to shift. Look for the tires to rock side to side (camber should not change at all). If any of that happens, it contributes to death wobble.

That's the thing about OME. They didn't sell kits. They sold parts you could pick and choose from and tune.

Spring rate and shocks make the most difference. Different springs can be softer or stiffer. Same with shocks. Above about 3-4", the short arms of the XJ/MJ get too steep and ride quality suffers.

Very nice. I've always wanted to do a project with an 84-86 MJ where I swapped over a 3.4/4L60 from a mid 90s Camaro or Firebird. Swap a good transfer case onto the transmission and just have fun driving it. But I have too many projects as it is...

My DW happened on my JK. I think, for some reason, the JK suspension design is more susceptible to death wobble as I haven't ever had it in any of the clapped out XJs or MJs I've ever driven. If anything should have had death wobble, it was those beasts.

I'll expand my list of everything that contributes to death wobble 1. Ball joints 2. Control arm bushings 3. Track bar bushings 4. Track bar bracket 5. Tie rod and drag link joints. 6. Steering box 7. Steering box spacer/mount 8. Bolts/nuts for everything above 9. Shocks/steering stabilizer (minor) 10. Tires (not without other factors) 11. Unit bearings (will have more symptoms than just death wobble). Individually, each one can be minor and not cause death wobble. Toss together a few minor things worn too much and you get death wobble. Fix one and it goes away, until the others get worse. It's a problem with a lot of causes that all work together in a gray area.

It's likely you had worn components that weren't bad enough to induce death wobble on their own. With fresh bushings and joints, and all torqued to spec, there isn't enough slop in the system to allow the harmonic to run away with just bad tires. Fix just one contributor when you have many and you can see results. There are many pieces in the system and they all play a part. When I did ball joints, my control arm bushings were wearing out. But my death wobble stopped. Until I put another 10,000 miles on the bushings and they got bad enough. Then it was the tie rod and drag link that were next not terribly long after. There isn't one magic bullet. You have to shotgun the front end to really solve it permanently.

I've never seen it where tires were the only factor. They can contribute, but without other parts being worn, you'd just get a shimmy instead of full on death wobble.

I've had death wobble a couple of times. Every time it's been worn components. First time it was ball joints. Second time it was control arm bushings Third time it was steering linkages (both tie rod and drag link). The track bar bracket hole opening up is also a common culprit. Even something as simple as loose bolts can contribute. Unit bearings can be a contributor too but that would have other symptoms. Check all wear components (bushings, ball joints, tie rod/drag link ends). Make sure they're not worn out. Then check every single bolt. Get a torque wrench on everything and double check.

Yeah, those kits are really a rip off. I buy the wire and crimp ends in bulk to do my own wires. I have a crimper for heavy gauge wire that uses a hammer to do the crimp. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00E1UUVT0?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title I have been known to throw some solder on as well. That with some heat shrink tubing and I'm set. I'm not trying to do any show quality builds though the finished product tends to look pretty decent.

Yeah, the lights use LEDs that are probably too bright if left at constant 12-14V. You really can't step down the voltage to an LED like you can with an incandescent bulb. So they use pulse modulation (turning on and off the power relatively fast) to reduce the brightness. But the cheap components do tend to flicker more than they would with better quality parts. Adjusting the pulse rate would probably do wonders but it's probably more expensive to have the controller that doesn't make the light flicker so badly. Part of it may be that the controller adjusts the flicker rate to match the incoming voltage. And with old cars, you're not getting full voltage to the lights (old wires, corroded contacts in the plug and the switch, etc). So the lights flicker badly.

Been there. You'll get it. I agree with just a little grinding on the sleeve. And only a little at a time to keep it from getting too hot. Maybe a big hammer to drive them in. Or a bigger crescent wrench to make bending easier.

You can always try bending the bracket a little. Get a large crescent wrench. Put it on one side of the bracket and cinch it down. Use it as a lever to spread the bracket apart to make room. Once you get the arm in and the bolt on, the nut/bolt will squeeze the sides of the bracket back together.