derf

I did grab it. It's yours if you want it.

Pretty much all the good stuff is gone. Almost no interior left. The front fenders were tweaked. Rear axle is gone. It's a Peugeot transmission...

A couple of useful parts. I'm going to keep the bed and the tire winch.

Bed has been acquired

Pretty well picked over at this point...

On its way to Jeep heaven. Pretty well picked over at this point.

Sorry about that. Those heads are heavy and not easy to get to. They're bad enough in a CJ. An Eagle won't be fun. I end up using an engine hoist to get them in and out. Glad you found it though.

Could be a head gasket. That's a lot of carbon buildup. I'm doing the intake and exhaust on the 258 in my CJ. I did the Fel-Pro gasket set. The main gasket goes on first, then loosely bolt up the exhaust only bolts. The two top center and the two at either end. Put the second part of the gasket in place and be sure it goes on the alignment dowels. Then the intake. Maybe start the lower bolts first. Then the upper bolts. Torque to spec (23 ft-lbs for the CJ) in a circular pattern inside out. I left out the second (intake only) gasket and had a gap. The other gasket looks to have sealed it up pretty good.

Pretty accurate drawing. I will echo what was said above. There is residual oil inside the tube from when you pull out the dipstick. Check it first thing in the morning after it has been sitting for many hours. You get less residue and most everything that will drain has drained back into the pan so you get a more accurate reading of just how much oil is in the engine.

So paint it and put it together as is. If the angle is off when you get to final assembly, toss some degree shims in to change the angle.

If you're dead set on cutting and welding the perches, wait until you have it basically complete and sitting at ride height with the driveshaft installed. Then you can see what the angle needs to be and weld from there. Or you can leave the perches. If you see that the angle is off you can just install some degree shims. They go between the spring perch and springs, on both sides.

That was the plan. If they're still there I will. Where are you located? I'm planning some road trips soon.

I saw that one too. Going to look at it on Saturday to see what's left...

Maybe I need to do a chief paint job then...

Yeah, you may be able to live with 3.55s and 32s with an automatic. I start to look at regearing at 31s. To get back to stock performance, 4.10s are probably good with 32s. 3.55s and a manual are probably OK with 32s since the stock ratio with a manual is 3.08.

Some days you just need a little bagpipe in your rock and roll...

There really isn't much left of this one. It was at one point a 4wd 4 cyl short bed truck. Most of it is gone. But the chassis is solid and there's not much rust. So I'll be taking parts off my mostly complete but rusted out parts donor truck. It's going to get a Renix 4.0, and I have an AX15 to go behind it. I have both an NP242 and an NP231. I'm leaning towards the 242 but haven't made up my mind. A non CAD D30 will replace the 2wd beam it's sitting on now. And I have a factory MJ Dana 44. Most likely a 3.5" lift with some 31x10.50/15 tires. And 3.55s with TrueTracs front and rear. It's going to get a full paint job since the donor parts won't match. And the paint on it is pretty well shot. Likely something close to navy blue, with the burgundy interior. As it sits now:

The sheet metal is more solid than any of my other trucks by a long shot. And it came with a title. One of my other rust buckets is going to donate parts before it completely falls apart. Probably going to strip it and do a full respray while it's like this. Trying to work out a deal on a bed for it.

It followed me home. My 5th overall. 1987 short bed. I'll get more details in the registry soon. And start a build log. But it's going to have a Renix 4.0 with AX15 and an NP242. On a 3 inch lift with 31s.

Spring over axle gets you the most comfortable ride. You need 4.5-5.5" lift in the front and that means a long arm kit if you want comfort. For 3", a short arm front with a 3" full leaf pack rear from some place like hell creek suspension is your best bet.