derf

This. Though I voted the Spicer 18 to keep the offset rear output to match the axle. If the axle is changed for a center differential, I'd change to either a Dana 20 or NP205. Also, the short flat fender will have a tough time fitting a longer transmission. Some of those options like the 700R4 may take a lot of customizing to fit.

Next you'll tell me it's the perfect companion for my Comanche Chief project....

You're not helping.

I have too many projects as it is... I have too many projects as it is... I have too many projects as it is... What does he want for it?

Agreed. For $17K, I would expect that it needs absolutely nothing. There should be all new hoses and belts, new tires, maybe even a few new engine gaskets/seals. Without that, I would lower the price I'm willing to pay. It would suck to lose out on an opportunity to have a clean XJ like that, but in the end it's just a 26 year old XJ.

Definitely looks clean and in good shape.

Assuming the mileage isn't altered, and a thorough inspection checks out, it would be a good candidate. I'm not sure $17,000 is entirely reasonable though.

Also, just as a heads up, you'll see 4.09, 4.10, and 4.11 gears for different axles. They are close enough to each other they can be used together. A Dana 30 may have 4.11 (37 ring teeth and 9 pinion teeth) while a Dana 44 may have 4.10 (41/10) or 4.09 (45/11). As long as the ratios are within 1% of each other, it's fine to use them together.

I learned the hard way.

Be wary of the SVL gears. That's Dana's budget line. They are lower quality than regular Dana gears. They are harder to set up properly than quality gears. I won't use SVL gears in any axle again. Speaking of setting up the gears, who is doing the setup? You or a shop? If you've never set up gears before I would recommend doing some research on the tools you will need and the process to do it. Most people can do it but it takes a lot of time to get it right.

X3 on staying away from used gears. There is a reason shops won't install them. The carrier could work but the locker is a bit janky to begin with. Add 20 years and it's probably not worth the effort to install. Sure the carrier would fit. It probably won't lock at all and the limited slip part of the diff is likely worn out. For my MJ project on 31s I'm going with TrueTracs front and rear.

It is a dad joke for sure...

A faux pas, if you will...

Slow progress, but I mostly got the dash buttoned up. Splurged a little on ebay...

Could also be a mangled bolt head that keeps the right socket from fitting.

I have a couple of project trucks that are going to be getting the rear glass pulled and replaced. I would be interested in hearing about getting in on the group buy.

I'm going to do rubber floor mats regardless. I may be leaning towards just a smoother bedliner. If I found an OEM vinyl, I'd probably snag it. But that's probably right next to the winning lottery ticket...

I didn't want to add this to the recent carpet thread. I'm working on my next build and I'm pretty sure I don't want carpet. It's going to be a trail/work rig. I want a more durable material on the floor, one that won't trap dirt like carpet would. I know from reading the carpet thread that the ACC vinyl has fitment issues. As in, it doesn't fit. Are there any other viable options? If not, what would I need to do to get the ACC vinyl to fit? I suppose I could just coat the floor with bed liner, but that isn't my first choice.

Yeah, 14mm is basically 9/16".

Those sockets are shallow enough you can use them to push the bolt into the hole as you spin it to get it started. I get the exhaust only bolts (2x center top and the ones towards the bottom at either end) more or less snug. It does take some patience but it's possible.

Wobble sockets on an extension. They combine a universal joint with a socket. The 258 in my CJ needed a 9/16" socket.

A picture. Says it's an 86 long bed with the 2.8V6.

My most frequent comment to consumer electronics. "Stop helping!"