High2by

I will try this. Any idea which wire or just trial and error it? Since I have the black buzzer, it doesn't have the headlight's ON buzz just ignition key buzz, correct? If that's correct, then why does it buzz with the keys out of it? Is there a short somewhere? Does it matter which side on the door pin you plug the wires into? I wouldn't think so but thought I would ask. Sorry for all the questions...

I just got a box from a '98 ZJ and my plan is to have it rebuilt for the MJ. Both lines on it were 18MM.

Well, between the sleet and rain today I managed to not fix the oil gauge or fuel gauge. I tried unplugging the oil sensor but the gauge didn't move, it was already pegged out before unplugging it. Then I tried to ground out the wire but all I got was sparks and the connector trying to weld itself to the spot I tried to ground it to. I'm not sure what the next step is. Any thoughts? As for the fuel gauge, I tried the old dash again and it still showed 1/2 tank but honestly I didn't drive the truck that much before I made the swap so I can't say for 100% that the fuel gauge worked correctly before. I think it did but now I'm not so sure. The current fuel gauge is also showing way past the full mark. Is there any test I can do on the gauge to see if it's working? I did check the foil on the back of the new dash and I couldn't see any breaks or bad spots in it. The warning lights "Brake", "Seat Belt" work. All the dash lights work and the tach works. The poor volt gauge shows not much life but I guess it's doing all it can.

I would like the thing to work if I can get it to work right. I'm getting tired of disconnecting the battery every time I go to work on the truck. Maybe the door pins should have been the last "fix" I did...

I know this is an old thread but I have a slightly different question about this buzzer box. The buzzer box in my truck is black. I thought I was being a hero by replacing my door pins and fixing my interior lights. Well, interior lights are fixed but now the stupid buzzer goes off anytime the drivers door is open. Doesn't matter if the key is in the ignition or not. Is it supposed to?

While the headliner is out, now is a good time to add some sound deadener to the roof.

If you're going with a '97 up front, you'll have to paint it all anyway so my vote would be chilli pepper. If you stay with the old school front end I would say stay with the same factory color. What are you planning on for striping?

I'm game for most anything but my ride is just 2wd. I sold my off road rig a couple years ago and bought a tractor....seemed like a good idea at the time.

Not too far away, just north of Woodbury but I work in LaVergne.

It's been raining non stop for the last two days and without a garage to work in, no work has been done. I did get my 40 tooth speedo gear and if it ever quits raining, I'll get it put in and hopefully that'll make the speedo read correctly.

I take it you just swap your existing pump over to this and voila. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Where do you get one of these?

That's good to know. I'll keep an eye on it for any leaking but I won't use any tape unless I have to. Thanks!

I will try plugging in the old cluster and seeing what the fuel gauge does and report back hopefully tomorrow. If not it will be Saturday before I can. I did inspect the foil on the back of the cluster before I left the junk yard but I could have missed something. I will recheck it. I will also try what you suggest on the oil sensor. I did NOT use thread tape on the sensor when I put it in, only because I didn't have any. I would have liked to have used some though but it isn't leaking so maybe it'll be ok. Thank you for the suggestions!

Did you find what you were looking for?

Mark Gassaway, TN '89 2WD Pioneer

I'd be up for a Meet N Greet as well.

I checked the G102 ground and even added a jumper wire from it to one of the studs that holds the e-brake bracket but no change in the oil or fuel gauge. I also unplugged and re-plugged and wiped the connectors to see if that would help. I did notice that the volt gauge is now closer to 14 volts than it was, so something did improve. I added a ground from the battery negative to the inside fender well because there wasn't one there. I also noticed there isn't a ground wire from the block to the firewall, the old braided strap is gone but nothing to replace it. I will add a ground wire for that and clean the grounds on the side of the block as well. I'm hoping that the block isn't grounded good enough for the oil sensor to work properly. Could that be the reason that the oil gauge is "pegged" out? As for the fuel gauge, I will work on the rear ground behind the tail light and add a jumper wire from there to the frame to hopefully improve things in the rear. I'm hoping that might help with the fuel gauge not reading right??? I'm placing a lot of hopes in fixing the grounds and reinforcing them where I can to solving my dash problems. Even if the gauges still don't work right, I do know the grounds need fixing and upgrading. Is there anything I am missing?

I did that a couple times but I didn’t use any contact cleaner before installing it so I want to wipe off all the connectors then try again. I hope that using cleaner and checking the ground helps and even if it doesn’t I know it needs it. Thanks! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That looks amazing! I think I’ve decided to find me a full console for mine. Now the search begins. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I will check that first thing tomorrow. Refresh of all the grounds is on the “to do” list. I just haven’t made it that far but I will hit that one first. Thanks! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The oil gauge does not drop when the engine is off. I think I got the right sensor, PS133 from Auto Zone. I know it looks a lot bigger than the one I took off of it. As for the fuel gauge, yes it did work before I made the swap. That makes sense on the volt gauge, unfortunately that’s an old Jeep for me. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ok guys, I got the new dash installed with the gear shift indicator put in. It looks pretty good but I still need to work on the clear plastic cover. When I started the truck the oil pressure gauge maxed out and has stayed there. I swapped the sensor out like was suggested so I’m not sure what’s up there but the fuel gauge also shows past full and I know it only has 1/2 tank in it. I used a cluster out of an 88 model XJ. Does that have anything to do with the gauges reading off? The tach and the speedo work fine. The volt gauge reads awful low though. I didn’t hook up the temp gauge yet, parts store didn’t have the right sensor In stock. Any thoughts on the oil and fuel gauges? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I don’t know if it’s illegal or not but I would think that trying to match the original odometer would actually be encouraged but what do I know. I will say that little clip is LITTLE!! I got the deal done, all but the actual cutting the hole in the tach gauge mainly because I don’t have a good way to do it. I’m gonna have to borrow a Dremel tool to finish it up. I got the 4 corner holes drilled and the hole outline marked though. I also need to do some more work on the glass cover. I’ve got to get some of that headlight restoration stuff. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hahahaha!!!