High2by

Dang, should've looked there first. Thanks!

I have a question. The red wire that is powering your under hood light, where does it come from? Can you see the connector it comes out of? I ask because I have a similar wire in the same location and looks close to this, that I am trying to figure out where it goes. Also, what did you use to hold the "Fuse Cover" down with? It looks like regular bolts? I've been searching for the actual tabs that hold it down but what you have looks way more sturdy. Thanks!

When I swapped in the full gauge cluster for my idiot (I know that's not a politically correct term) light factory one, I needed to swap out the oil and temp sensors on the engine so the gauges would read correctly. Well, I found the oil sensor pretty easily but not so on the temp sensor. Today I ordered the temp sensor online because no one had it in stock near me. I don't understand why ALL parts stores don't stock parts for '89 MJ's.....it just beats all. While I was at it, I also ordered a new set of lock cylinders for the doors because using a screw driver to get in the driver door didn't seem all that secure to me. I've never replaced those before so looks like it's time to do some searching and reading...

I've had red heelers in the past and absolutely love them, extremely smart dogs. We got this pup because he was free and also because our Great Pyrenees went missing. We needed something that we felt like would stay around, Heeler, and something that would stay with the livestock, the mix of Anatolian and GP.

The plan is for him to be. Mom is 100% blue heeler and dad is 1/2 Anatolian - 1/2 Great Pyrenees. Not really sure how those two hooked up but anyway, I hope he's gonna be a good one.

This is true.

It's a base Pioneer model and it doesn't have a hitch on it but that's not to say that it didn't have one on it at some point. It has the factory front bumper on it too, so I would say no winch. I was looking at some build threads and saw a wire that looked similar to the solid red wire and it was connected to an under the hood light. Could that be it?

I thought that maybe the two wires going to the door jamb button might have shorted with each other but I checked them as far back as I could and there no skinned spots on the wires and since that's the only two wires in there for the door jamb I don't see how the wires could "get together" to make the lights and buzzer work at the same time. Once I unhooked the buzzer wire from the door jamb switch, it quit even though the lights still worked. I agree that when the door is shut the buzzer is quiet but when you are putting a window regulator in the door and it's open, that sucker is loud and proud, hence the battery gets disconnected.

That should make it waaay easier than it would've been. Thanks!

You sir, have a beautiful truck. Goals!!

Right. I don't want to lose or break the part I can't get. What exactly does it look like or is it one of those things that you'll know it when you see it? I've never been into a steering column but it can't be that hard.

Today I put a new valve cover gasket on it and did Cruiser's valve cover mod. I hope this helps with the oil in the airbox, it sure can't hurt. I also installed a 40 tooth speedo gear which has brought my speedometer back to dead nutz on. No more guessing how fast I'm going.

One last picture today... I've been fighting dash issues but I guess that's my fault. I didn't like the stock idiot lights and no tach. So I did what someone way smarter than me did. I combined two dash's to get what I wanted. Like I said in my first post, some of you guys have talent!!

I also put in the Hella E-code housings and H4 bulbs. Don't worry, I also installed a new headlight harness I got from eBay. I was skeptical about the harness when I ordered it but it's well built and everything fit and functions as it should. I must say, the lights are much better now. Oh, I also put new mirrors on it and new window sweeps, inside and out. They had seen their better days. I ended up putting a new window regulator in the driver side because the old one had broke into. All fixed now though.

I've been doing a lot of stuff to the truck since I got it but it's mostly small things. I know, they all add up. I added new b pillar lights with LED bulbs. I can actually see inside now.

Thanks! I hope this turns into what I want it to.

First thing I did was change the tire and wheel combo. Actually I already had this setup. Remember my first MJ, dreams of grandeur and whatnot...well these were on it. So I figured might as well put them to use before they dry rotted. The truck has a Ford 8.8 in the rear with 4.10 gears. I'm running an 1-1/2" spacers on the rear and 1/4" spacers on the front. I had to run those on the front because I couldn't get the rim to sit flush on the hub, the center was too big. I have a plan on that but I'm not sure which way to go. Here are my thoughts. Let me know what you think. 1) Swap out entire front beam for a late model one with unit bearings. 2) Swap in only the WJ knuckles and Akebono 2 piston calipers for better stopping power.

Hey all!! I've been on the boards for a while but I've never done a "build" thread. I mean, what I do is nothing spectacular like some of you guys, some of you have some real talent! This isn't my first MJ but I do plan on keeping this one. My first MJ was an '88 SWB truck that I had dreams of grandeur about and my plans were endless. I got so far on the plans then they kinda fell away as life moved on. I still have the truck and one of these days I will breath new life into it. My second MJ was an '89 LWB and I just wasn't enthused about it so I sold it to a fellow Jeeper. A few years pass by and then along came this SWB and I love it. I know it's only a 2wd but considering what I drove before this, '97 Saturn SW1, I mean come on, this is like the coolest thing ever!! Once again, I have big plans for it and in this stage of my life I should be able to complete them. Here it is in all it's glory.

I killed the buzzer staying on from just the door being open, which is a good thing. When I turn the key on, it still buzz's like it should but I still want to get into the column and see what I can find in there.

Update and end result, I have a functioning oil pressure gauge. Having said that, I'm not entirely happy with myself for going through all of this all because I thought that the PO knew what they were doing. Does anyone know what this 2-wire harness goes to? It's on the passenger side fender well amongst all the other connectors. Power comes from the female side and both wires are constant hot. Solid Red and the other Red/White stripe. Both these wires come from the main harness from the firewall. I ask because the solid red wire was what had been plugged into the oil pressure switch. After not getting anywhere I knew something wasn't right so I went on a wire hunt and actually found the oil pressure sensor wire. It had been tucked up underneath the battery tray out of the way I didn't notice it till I really got to digging. That's why I couldn't get the gauge to react when grounding it out because it wasn't going to the gauge in the first place. I didn't find any blown fuses so I don't know what I hurt by shorting it out. This solid red wire goes to something and I don't know what. When it comes out of the male side of this plug it's a long wire that terminates into what looked like a female end. The Red/White stripe disappears into the loom and I lose it. Whatever the red wire feeds isn't getting any power but I can't find what's NOT working. I will also say that now my volt gauge is reading where it should be but I guess when you remove a dead short from the system, the gauge will read right.

I'd rather it not work at all than work every time the door opens so I guess it's ok. I'd still like it to work like it should but sounds like that may be a pipe dream. I'll find a blue box to swap in and at least the headlight buzzer should work.

Yes, that's what I thought. Ahhhh. I may give it a go and see what I can do with it. I'm guessing you can't buy a new one of those but if I mess it up, that just means no more buzzer, which is kinda what I'm after anyway. Can you swap a blue buzzer box for a black one? It would be nice for the buzzer to sound if I leave the lights on. Thanks guys!!

Gotcha. Thanks for the suggestions and help!!

Ok. I remember seeing A and B but I didn't know which wire to plug in where. I can figure out which wire kills the buzzer though. I would like for the thing to work so what is this? I've never heard of this switch but then again, I've never tried to make a buzzer work right.

Will do. This is with the key off/vehicle off, correct? Just making sure.