eaglescout526

Unless you’re absolutely hard set on keeping the pukegoat BA10/5, everyone is gonna tell you to ditch it and get the AX15. And yes parts for that trans are hard to find just like the Renault turbo diesel from the early years.

Straight from the AMC|Jeep INJ. TBI 8980010380 factory/dealer manual Book: text from the book will follow Me: suggestions or tips will follow Book: Adjustment of the ISA motor plunger is necessary only to establish the initial position of the plunger after the motor has been replaced. Me: In most cases, it is to fix what the PO or a Shadetree mechanic shouldnt have touched. Book: WARNING: Use extreme caution when the engine is operating. Do not stand in direct line with the fan. Do not put your hands near the pulleys, belts or fan. Do not wear loose clothing. Me: Yes I feel this is necessary to include in the write up as you will be running your 2.5L at 3kRPM. Book: Remove the air bonnet and start the engine. Me: You want to remove the plastic cover for the throttle body like so(not the base the bonnet clips to, this is just an example of what you want to expose): Book: Allow engine to attain normal operating temperature(upper radiator hose hot) Turn the A/C off if equipped Connect a tachometer to diagnostic terminals D1-1 and D1-3. Me: Or use your dash's tach or the REM tool from nickintime Book: Turn the ignition off. The ISA motor plunger SHOULD move to the fully extended position. Me: If your ISA is not doing this, I highly recommend rebuilding it, all that is inside is plastic gears and grease that more than likely need to be cleaned. If the motor still is not working, the motor itself can be removed to be cleaned but can be tough to do if you are not used to working with small motors. HO scale train motors are great practice motors just as an example. I do offer rebuilding services as well. Book: With the ISA motor plunger fully extended, disconnect the ISA motor wire harness connector and start the engine. Me: Its gonna get loud, please wear ear protection too! Book: With this condition, the engine idle speed should be 3500 RPM (±200). If the speed is not correct, turn the hex head screw (A) on the end of the plunger to provide an engine speed of 3500 RPM Me: Now the next section says to fully retract the motor, you can not do that with it disconnected from the ECU. There was a tool back in the day that you plugged into the ISA to control the motor. Now it says the closed throttle switch should not contact the throttle lever, this is BS as if it didnt, the engine would basically choke on idle and you would end up with a constant rev hunting condition as the ECU will use the ISA to compensate over and over(Now 86 2.5L's might not have the throttle lever touch at all and thats fine, this book was written August of 1986 so it covers 87 and 86 but not what any revisions they did to the 2.5L's of 88-90). Ignore this and achieve your 3500 RPM speed. Shut down the engine or connect the ISA if youre a bit brave to do that while at that high of speed, the ECU should bring down the idle once it is plugged back in. I recommend just turning it off, plugging it in and then starting it back up to watch it operate as it should. Now put it all back together. Book says once you start it back up you should see the tach read 3500 for a second and then come down, I have never ever seen mine do this, I would speculate that the ECU reacts pretty quick and brings down the idle before it gets that high. But this is how you adjust your ISA, do not touch it again once you have done this, if you have a high idle or low idle and the ISA isnt moving, it needs to be rebuilt. If the ISA operates as it should and you have high or low idle, there is something else wrong and the ISA should not be touched or used as "something to get you by" on your daily. Feel free to drop any questions.

Oh yeah! I forgot duh. Dealerconnect won't let him pull any data. I think I can work some strings on Monday. Let me see what I can do.

HO years, 91-00. Not common either but it seems Renix 2.5L's are more commonly found and scrapped than the MPFI set up which is an upgrade(if you want to work with the HO system) if you can find a donor XJ that has it all.

Should be on the VIN plate thats by the header panel, on the header panel support on the drivers side.

Got the NOS charcoal canister bracket mounted and the relay center bracket in place. I do have plans to paint it but not right now. Oh and that is a NOS EGR purge solenoid too.

Wow, a Comanche four wheeler of the year sticker! As for the 2.5L to swap, is it the MPFI or just the TBI?

Factory bed rails. damn. 86 is not gonna have a lot of info on the build sheets due to Chrysler not migrating the build sheets digitally.

It’s the same as what I was doing at dodge. Shipping and receiving.

Thanks guys! I survived my first week. Legs are killing me but other than that I can say I’m pretty comfortable with what my job is.

I’ll work on the DIY this weekend.

How’s the battery?

Oh that’s him!? I saw that post on Facebook. Well glad he’s alive from that but that was a good metric ton MJ.

Yeah it’s for the relay to the power antenna which hey that’s a nice option to have in your MJ now if you go that route.

Hmmmm peculiar.

Power antenna.

Ok. So did you do the adjustment procured for the ISA when you installed the new one? If the screw is too far out, the idle will go and remain high as the ECU tries to compensate and lower the ISA. If the screw is too low, then you’ll have the issue of starting along with idle being too low. Note to self, write this procedure in the DIY.

Last visited 9/2022

The ISA is controlled by the ECU. Over time they will stick in various positions. In your case it got stuck low and then it got stuck high. The ISA is supposed to open the throttle after shut down so when you go to start, you won’t have to touch the gas pedal at all to start the Jeep. Sounds like to me the ISA needs a clean and rebuild. I do offer that as a service but it’s more of an exchange program where I get yours and I send a rebuilt working one.

I recommend inspecting them first. They simply could have corrosion on them, they’re an all metal construction. They will more than likely work when the corrosion is gone unless they are just too far gone.

I’ll keep you posted. Might be a while.

Oh. They’re nothin special. They are just common parts that was sold when I worked at Dodge.

Lol. If I get access to their digital catalog, I might dabble in seeing what is out there.

Yup! I still hate FoMoCo part numbers though haha.

So the first day went pretty well. I kicked some butt and fell back into what was my groove. Its not Mopar and there is some Mopar parts around their warehouse that serve as gentle reminders. All in all, it was a good day.