eaglescout526

There are two flasher relays. One for hazard and one for turn signal.

Yeah it is. If you feel it really is above normal, check the vac lines and make sure they aren’t plugged like the one to the air cleaner and the one from the back of the cover to the base of the throttle body.

Normal. It can cope with the weather. Many with the 4.0 in the winter start just fine. have you cleaned all the grounds? The only thing that should remain on after shut down should be the ECU extending the ISA for the next start up.

Lol. Considering I have it all back together with no issue, but very well could’ve been.

Unplug the fuel pump and run all the fuel out of the lines if you want to be safe. I’d recommend using tin snips to cut the floor out instead of a air tool or power tool around the fuel lines. That’s what I did. I also welded by the fuel lines with no issues there on my XJ.

Back fire? Timing could be off.

Steel. I dont know how you’d weld aluminum to steel.

It’s cheap and free metal. Thicker too and already prepped to fight rust.

On the XJs. MJ never got the gold treatment.

Not yet. I ordered some new ones, I think there’s one still in the bell house from when I lost one of them but I have to remove the inspection plate to see. But in a sense yes it is.

Found my problem. Its the clutch fork pivot. The plastic cone that goes on the end of the slave cylinder rod. The tip broke off and slid down and thus caused the slave cylinder to bascially max out. The tingging sound is the hydraulic cylinder hitting the retainer. For you 86 guys, if this happens, the pivot probably broke.

Probably not what you’re looking for but on a budget I used a washer and dryer sheet metal to repair the floor of my XJ. I couldn’t justify spending the amount of money for a new floor section from keyparts

The MAP unplugged electrically and not running is correct. That circuit is a good. It doesn’t look like anything as you can’t really see it open and close but you can feel it with the engine off. If you push up on the diaphragm and it doesn’t move, then it’s stuck. If it does move, it probably is fine.

If you reach into the holes of the EGR and push up while it’s running, the engine will choke and sputter. If the EGR is stuck open, then there’s part of the problem. If it’s closed, then it’s good and that’s not the vac leak.

Ok I do have an idea. So SF 8952000025 is the original part number. The US one. The other two I can speculate one of two things. One, the rim manufacture had three factories, one here and two in Europe. The two in Europe got different part numbers for the casting probably to keep them different from the US ones and we’re probably meant for the euro Jeeps. Two, anytime the US ones went on back order, the other two supplied to the states.

Do those have an AMC part number? That’s the AMC number. Ok so that’s genuine. I wonder who was the manufacture for these rims.

There should be an AMC part number somewhere on the rim.

The only dummy plug I can think of is for AC. i have an 86 diagram, I’ll snap some pics. Have you checked the EGR? Make sure it’s not stuck open

Head gasket on these wouldn’t let coolant in the oil but more coolant in the combustion chamber. I’d definitely get vac lines replaced. Now unplugging the brake booster would yield a high idle.

Hmmmm. If damn near everything electrical and vac related checks out, I’d do a compression test and make sure the head gasket hasn’t failed from sitting.

When’s the last time this MJ ran and was on the road? What color is the coolant?

Ok the EGR circuit is fine. That’s good.

Did you test it while it’s running? Just to make sure the solenoid isn’t opening it already at start?

Check your EGR. See if it’s not gummed up and sticking.

EGR solenoid is on that side. OP valve cover gasket wouldn’t be your issue.