eaglescout526

Soooo I shouldn’t be using the front axle anymore? That’s what I’ve been doing with no problems. Course I suppose jacking by the front axle risks possible bending and stress.

They do a great job actually! The design is more for the OEM window but hey, I got it to work and can’t complain about the functionality.

84-86 standard 4wd equipment. Can be found behind the 2.5L and 2.8L. This one is the Command-trac case. The NP228/9 is the selec-trac case that can be found behind only the automatics in 84-86. 87 and up saw the change to the 231 and 242 cases. My 84 XJ has the 207, its pretty standard, nothing beefy or special there. But what I cant help but notice is mine has the CVT style mounting flange for the front diff on my case. Which means yours just has a double cardan joint that bolts in on yours. Wonder which is the better set up.

Correct. 84-86 clusters are based on an old standard across all companies before the newer style. Tach signal is based on ignition pulse from the coil(Renix). Not sure about HO but it could be the same. Renix relies on the CPS to run the coil to send spark out. The ECU controls the injector pulses and pulses fuel even if the coil isnt sending spark. This doesnt make sense. If its from a Renix and reads at 88 Ωhms when full and 0 when empty, its Renix. 0 full and 105 empty is HO. Now the fuel sending units (FSU) between XJ and MJ are different. The MJ sits more into the tank than the XJ one. The XJ FSU with sock faces to the right when in the tank and the MJ faces to the left. But you shouldn't have to add anything to get the gauge to work. It will just plug n play. its the oil and temp gauges that you need to switch from switches to sensors. Honestly, if youre turned off about using a full 84-86 cluster, do be. You can just get the 86 speedo cable and put it in. Now I do say to be turned off by the 86 cluster because of the age and problems that I have observed with the clusters. 1. The lamination to keep the printed copper circuit in place is failing hard on these and no one makes any new ones. 2. The tachs are not adjustable but most tachs can be found behind the V6 anyways so youre good there. But the capacitors and resistors might be failing on the tach board. 3. The bulbs can be a pain to get working right. Now heres one nice thing about the 84-86 gauges, they just plug in and dont get screwed in like the later clusters where you can damage the winding on the guage.

Interesting. Well with 92's not being common, this could be something new for us.

Yes the spring is broken. It broke when the cutaway was being made. 86-92 valves are all the same.

For the most part, all clusters will swap. 84-86 have a early speedo connection type 87-90 use a later type. these two clusters will interchange with each other. 91-96 HO can work but you will not have a speedometer due to it being electrical and not mechanical.

I tried to get where that bottom piston is apart, I could not so just leave it alone. as Ωhm above posted, just the inside needs to be good clean and rust free. Thats how I have been rebuilding them and selling them.

Yes. It’s incredibly easy to do. All you really can take apart and service is the little spring valve inside the top portion of the assembly. I’ve tried to take apart where the piston is and it don’t budge. But the spring is where you want to clean and service as that can get either stuck open or closed. No precautions really. Might need an impact to break the seal between the body and the housing of the spring valve.

I did it without pulling the entire b-pillar trim. Just the a-pillar and visors and top screws of the B-pillar need to come out and basically you can slide the headliner forward to where it can come up and out of the b-pillar groove. Might need to remove the rear view mirror too for extra room.

The light test would be with the regulator(yellow AMC box) unplugged and the connector still plugged in.

Oh pffff don’t be scared at all. You honestly can’t do any damage. What you’re looking for is if any of the buttons trigger a complete circuit to illuminate the light.

I found it can be done with a test light but it’s a bit tricky.

Come to AZ, let the whole thing bake for about 8 hours and the nameplates should be pliable haha

There’s a tab that locks onto the connector for the stalk that needs to be pried up to remove the stalk from the connector.

That time of the year! If you have any Jeep other than an MJ feel free to bring it on out too! Be nice to have a slight MJ take over!

Also some specs about your MJ will help better, if your username is true and you have a 91, its gonna be different than most the 86-90's on here.

Have you cleaned your grounds? The interior lights are on the dome lamp circuit, those are controlled by switches in the door that are known to corrode. the instrument panel lamps are on a different circuit than the front marker and tail lights. The parking lamps fuse however is your tails and front marker lights.

Crown has them? I’ve been using a later Chrysler part number for more.

Yup. Only 87-90 are the internal years 84-86 make a great upgrade direct swap for later 2.5L's and the HO years are perfect swap for both engines. Though Ive never seen anyone swap an HO bell house to an earlier 2.5L.

84-86 2.8L V6 and 2.5Ls have external slaves. Which is what you have. That set up is superior vs the internal. 87-90 are internal and 91-01 are external. Oh and I wouldn’t be replacing parts due to age. These days the older genuine parts are much better than new ones. See if you can rebuild the master and slave. I remember on my external slave, the seal got too wet(yeah i dont know) and let fluid pass. So I replaced the seal with a new one and all is good and leak free.

I’ve daisy chained one once just to get it to charge. Take a good battery and then have it be charged by the charger and hook another set of jumpers to the bad from the good and it works.

Double fail safe?