boxyjeep

Wow, what a great build. Would recommend trying our some of the LED MJ tail lights from Oracle--they'd probably look awesome!

not a bad idea!

Not sure on this. I think you can, but you’d have to verify that the XJ rotors would fit over the WJ unit bearings after being re-drilled. Also, the WJ knuckle swap doesn’t change the track width at all (unless you’re running adapters for some reason).

Just saw it come in—thanks!

Thanks--coming soon! Appreciate that. It took a long time to get it to pass after the 4.6L stroker install. New cat, injectors, plugs, adjustable map sensor, etc...

Hate to revive an old thread, but anyone looking for an EGR delete kit can be found here: https://boxyjeep.com/products/jeep-cherokee-4-0l-egr-plate-1987-1990 We also have 2.5L kits for sale: https://boxyjeep.com/products/jeep-2-5l-egr-plate-1982

Thought you guys deserved an update--finally done with my AX15 swap after almost a year. I installed new F&R Adam's CV driveshafts, rebuilt the transfer case with 23-spline input shaft and SYE, SFR transmission mount, and a bunch of rewiring with new heatshink/loom. I'll probably be doing a walkaround video on YouTube soon, but just passed smog today (which is a big deal in California when running a 4.6L Renix stroker...). Still a lot to do before it's ready for some off-road adventures (and even longer on-road adventures). Swap in CavFab Track Bar mount and brace with +2" forward movement (currently hitting the track bar is hitting the diff cover over bumps). Install front steering stabilizer and tighten up front end--it's still "loose" and on the edge of DW over some bumps. Something is wrong there and I need to figure it out. Re-seal tail cone of SYE housing. Slightly leaking after rebuild. Luckily it's just the tailhousing and not the case half. Some minor wiring fixes. I also have a set of Core4x4 long arms that I may install at some point (although I'm not looking forward to chopping up the pristine frame) and some CARB-legal Pacesetter Renix headers (that I may or may not install with a full 2.5" exhaust system).

Looking great!

Yes, I’m running full WJ knuckles, brakes, unit bearings, etc. with original XJ D30 shafts. I’m using the spacer kit that is necessary to re-align the knuckle to the center axis of the u-joint. I’m also running a WJ master/booster and Wilwood manual proportioning valve for the rear (fully removed load sensing valve).

Currently running WJ full outers/hubs/brakes in the front (so no adapters). Running adapters in the rear until I have a chance to get some 5x5" axle shafts and do a disc brake conversion. I hate running adapters, but it's not the end of the world.

If you don't have this, it's a must-have for Renix engines. There is no easier way to read sensor values, fuel trim, and open/close loop status. It's the bare necessity to drive a RENIX MJ/XJ.

I'm running BFG A/T KO2 in 285/70R17 size with 17x8.5" wheels and they fit nicely. Powertrain is a 4.6L stroker with AX15 and stock 3.55 gears. It's "okay", but wish they were 4.10's to be honest. Suspension is ~5" lift up front and a "low SOA" in the rear. I think the height and size is perfect. Not too big, not too small.

Wiring harness video is up!

Sorry, I misread your original post. This kit primarily focuses on transplanting the 91-96 speed sensor and gauge into 90 and below. The np241or tcase with Hall effect sensor won’t work. That being said, I believe some standard GPS speedometer sensors may be compatible (but I haven’t tested it yet).

Yep—works the same for NP242 and NP231, as it uses the original tailbone part with the embedded speedo gear.

Some modifications are necessary. Check out this video.

I've been working on this for awhile and thought it would be worth sharing with this group. We've all dealt with the crappy cable-driven speedo that results in a bouncing speedometer. You replace the cable, try to oil it, etc, but nothing fixes it. To address this, we've come up with a kit that allows you to swap in a 1991-1996 electronic speedometer gauge from a newer cluster along with the associated wiring harness and electronic sensor. It's surprisingly a super easy swap and results in a speedometer that's smooth as butter. Since you only replace the speedometer gauge, all of your other gauges continue to work like they did before. On top of all this, we believe this will work with some of the universal cruise control kits (like this one--although we haven't tested yet).

Just use cell phone. No need for a landline anymore.

We now have these back in stock. Please take a look! https://boxyjeep.com/products/jeep-comanche-6-5-rear-speaker-brackets

Makes sense. Let me see what we can do to do another run of metal ones.

Engine bay looking mint!

Any specific reasons you want the metal ones? The new plastic design is just as reliable and substantially cheaper. Feel free to shoot me a DM too.

No, we stopped selling because Key Parts came out with a whole assembly for around $100. You can find those on eBay.

Bracket for HO bottle in Renix engine bay available here: https://boxyjeep.com/

It is. He’s selling it.