boxyjeep

That's why it's called a "Sport Bar". It was never meant to have any structural capacity. I've dug into this a bit and evaluated the cost of materials, time/labor, and shipping, and it would likely have to sell for $800-1000. Unfortunately, you're not gonna sell a lot of these and the initial investment in tooling, test runs, and materials is going to be pretty steep. As much as I hate to say it, it's really just not commercially viable.

Got the tailgate on my wall

It's not everything, but BoxyJeep.com has a large selection of common replacement hardware for XJ/MJ. These bolt kits are fully tested, verified, and in many cases better than OE spec and ship next day.

There’s a file on Thingverse that is a model of an empty cluster. I’d start there.

I’ve got a bunch of empty housings I’d sell cheap. 87-90 and 91-97. Lmk.

CC is a great resource with a massive wealth of content, but people have a tendency to flock to Facebook. The algorithm shows interesting content easier and commenting is quicker/more seamless.

Certainly something that could be 3D printed with TPU. Unfortunately not on my roadmap right now.

Factory 4WD MJ leafs.

I'm running 4WD leafs in a “low” SOA setup. I’m using XJ shackles, removed the overload leaf, and made my own low -profile spring perches. Sits around 6.5” lift.

https://boxyjeep.com/products/jeep-comanche-6-5-rear-speaker-brackets

Glad to hear that the kit is working but the issue is with engagement on the tailshaft of the tcase. Have you rotated the speedo gear housing until it touches the tailshaft gear?

Unfortunately, wasn’t expecting people to modify the dummy clusters so didn’t include that in the instructions. It’s the two terminals to the right from the fuel gauge in your pic. Toss a multimeter on to verify.

Wow, what a great build. Would recommend trying our some of the LED MJ tail lights from Oracle--they'd probably look awesome!

not a bad idea!

Not sure on this. I think you can, but you’d have to verify that the XJ rotors would fit over the WJ unit bearings after being re-drilled. Also, the WJ knuckle swap doesn’t change the track width at all (unless you’re running adapters for some reason).

Just saw it come in—thanks!

Thanks--coming soon! Appreciate that. It took a long time to get it to pass after the 4.6L stroker install. New cat, injectors, plugs, adjustable map sensor, etc...

Hate to revive an old thread, but anyone looking for an EGR delete kit can be found here: https://boxyjeep.com/products/jeep-cherokee-4-0l-egr-plate-1987-1990 We also have 2.5L kits for sale: https://boxyjeep.com/products/jeep-2-5l-egr-plate-1982

Thought you guys deserved an update--finally done with my AX15 swap after almost a year. I installed new F&R Adam's CV driveshafts, rebuilt the transfer case with 23-spline input shaft and SYE, SFR transmission mount, and a bunch of rewiring with new heatshink/loom. I'll probably be doing a walkaround video on YouTube soon, but just passed smog today (which is a big deal in California when running a 4.6L Renix stroker...). Still a lot to do before it's ready for some off-road adventures (and even longer on-road adventures). Swap in CavFab Track Bar mount and brace with +2" forward movement (currently hitting the track bar is hitting the diff cover over bumps). Install front steering stabilizer and tighten up front end--it's still "loose" and on the edge of DW over some bumps. Something is wrong there and I need to figure it out. Re-seal tail cone of SYE housing. Slightly leaking after rebuild. Luckily it's just the tailhousing and not the case half. Some minor wiring fixes. I also have a set of Core4x4 long arms that I may install at some point (although I'm not looking forward to chopping up the pristine frame) and some CARB-legal Pacesetter Renix headers (that I may or may not install with a full 2.5" exhaust system).

Looking great!

Yes, I’m running full WJ knuckles, brakes, unit bearings, etc. with original XJ D30 shafts. I’m using the spacer kit that is necessary to re-align the knuckle to the center axis of the u-joint. I’m also running a WJ master/booster and Wilwood manual proportioning valve for the rear (fully removed load sensing valve).

Currently running WJ full outers/hubs/brakes in the front (so no adapters). Running adapters in the rear until I have a chance to get some 5x5" axle shafts and do a disc brake conversion. I hate running adapters, but it's not the end of the world.

If you don't have this, it's a must-have for Renix engines. There is no easier way to read sensor values, fuel trim, and open/close loop status. It's the bare necessity to drive a RENIX MJ/XJ.

I'm running BFG A/T KO2 in 285/70R17 size with 17x8.5" wheels and they fit nicely. Powertrain is a 4.6L stroker with AX15 and stock 3.55 gears. It's "okay", but wish they were 4.10's to be honest. Suspension is ~5" lift up front and a "low SOA" in the rear. I think the height and size is perfect. Not too big, not too small.

Wiring harness video is up!