ghetdjc320

6-10K is extremely conservative

Just ordered up all my custom switches from otrattw.com I went with the Contura X design as I felt it best matched the original switches and interior. The switches are fog, cargo, rock lights, arb compressor, front and rear lockers, winch power and winch spool in and out. Going to use the 4 dash locations along with the @m2bandit console pocket 4 switch holder. Also configuring my OBA setup. Not sure if I’m going to run the arb single or twin yet but plan on adding a 2-2.5 gallon air tank with coupling to run a blow off gun or other air tools. The arb twin does a fairly impressive 6 cfm free flow rate. The bed lights will be activated by a tailgate ground switch. Thinking about doing a nice cargo light with 3rd brake light if I can find a design I like that looks clean. I think I’m going to stick with the old style 10 slot chrome grill as I have the original Marchal fogs and original turbines. The outside should retain a very “period correct” but slightly modified look.

So I went to otrattw.net and found the contura 2 switches with incandescent lighting. I think those may work well for this application . Thanks for the link!

Yeah the rear window defog switch is just a momentary on-off. The door panels require the upper trim piece from a limited or higher trim XJ and the gauges cluster is RHD. I’m on there a lot keeping an eye on anything new they get but nothing that works thus far.

True, just a lot more expensive to swap

Not a bad option either. Though I do make customer bezels for these so nothing would go unlabeled. They do look very 90’s but I find the MJ style switches were a bit more squared off. Nice option though

I thought the advantage of those iron blocks was being able to handle high boost numbers on stock internals.

I swapped in a 5.7 LS engine as have a couple others. There are a few who have also done diesel swaps. Look in the “Epic” build sections for builds by @Limeyjeeper and @70barracuda. There is one irrefutable fact for any of us who have done a V8 swap, they cost a lot more than it may seem. Those build threads will take you through the parts needed for the swap as well.

Good to know, looking for a good factory style winch switch option

Another 4.0 or a stroker based on the 4.0 would be the most straight forward. Are you trying to get more power or just replace a bad engine?

Had to redirect this topic. Is that grand wagoneer switch momentary on in both directions like a regular power window switch?

Well, they did give me a 10% off coupon for signing up for notifications

I’m going to bet $229

I had custom housings made for my MJ with new key parts lenses. I opted to change the sockets as to something that would actually seal up properly. These look great. I like the tinted lenses the best. You would think it would be easy to repop a cargo lamp also. Then we’re just missing a decent modern 5x7/7x6 headlight and some better looking turn signals

I just installed power 97+ windows in my build as well. I used the newer style power regulators with the detached motor. The install isn’t too bad but I did need to use some spacers of different lengths to properly align the regulator angle to the glass track angle. You’ve got to get it aligned so the glass maintains a nice constant tension on the rear track to keep the glass from having excessive play.

Iirc you’ll need to add the fuse (assuming the female terminals are in the fuse block). There is a single connector (looks like a spade terminal on a single wire) that will go into that upper slot. That single connector becomes a fused 30a output

Nice results

Good to know. I have one also I need to restore. Works but the end is missing

Rocky road marketing never fails to impress. They can spin anything it seems. Be aware that’s the above kit does not to anything with the rear spring pack other than relocate it to the top of the axle. And the idea that all add-a-leafs are stiff or ride harsh is simply not true. As was started in an earlier post, around a 3” lift is the max before you need to start considering many other factors in a lift. 31’s with a puck lift up front would do the trick. At 3” lift you could stuff some 32’s in there but tire width and wheel backspacing are always going to play a role at most any lift height. I ran SOA rear and 6” lift up front but had to also install a different track bar and steering setup along with control arm drop brackets. Keep in mind though that I was running a metric 33” tire which runs just over a true 33x10.5. It wasn’t a lot of tire gain over a set of 31/32” tires. Her is a pic of 6” lift front with Metal Cloak 6” lift springs and SOA rear with factory 4wd leafs. I also had to run a slip yoke eliminator and custom rear driveshaft.

It’s just a 1/8” npt fitting. Very easy to find at auto parts or hardware stores in a variety of bends.

I think I need these on the “Tomahawk”

Oh boy. Those are quite spectacular

I may have an extra NOS switch in a few weeks if time isn’t an issue.

That sound skins stuff is nice