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Yes those are it. Is that your post?

Yes, it’s in rough shape but I hadn’t personally ever seen such a console. It’s out of a 90’ XJ with factory sunroof option. I got some headliner fabric from sms to recover it. Will disassemble it all and make it like new. I also have the back half of the console but not sure if I’ll use it or not.

Need one or two decent turbine center caps with no chrome damage. I don’t mind if the “Jeep” logo is missing or damaged as I have a new set I’ll be using. TIA

Are they both coil on plug engines? Iirc 99 was the changeover year.

If you have a hydraulic press or even a good air hammer, you can tighten down the main pin for the pedal until you get almost zero play (make sure it still move smoothly though). You can also tighten the pin for the catch lever/cam. A slightly tighter lever spring and you should be good to go.

Do you have some part numbers for those Indak GM switches?

If a certain vehicle takes someone out of their comfort zone, they probably shouldn’t be driving that vehicle. A person who is overly cautious can cause accidents just like a person who is overly confident (the on-ramp is a great example of this). A Comanche doesn’t seem like that old of a vehicle to me but that’s just because I grew up riding in tri-5’s and early mustangs that my dad and I would work on. I recall the accelerator linkage getting stuck at full throttle, brakes going out and having to pump them up to get any stopping power, a rear end getting locked up going down the road etc etc. Cars are definitely safer today. Although I do find that there seems to be a tendency towards complacency when you have certain “smart” car features. There really aren’t any regulations regarding modding your vehicle. You can basically re-engineer the entire thing and there isn’t anyone who’s going to check that work. Throw some shoddy work in the mix and that’s a recipe for disaster. Imagine a welded control arm, crossover steering or track bar giving out while driving… the scenarios are endless

Ask @Gjeep he’s had them for a while now. 50 clean watts with the right input voltage can be quite powerful.

You’ll need to find the centerline of your axle and measure 21” away on each side. That mark will be the center of your spring perches. Keep in mind also that now is when you will set your pinion angle. If you’re using a standard or original style driveshaft, the pinion will need to be about 1-2* up from parallel to the ground. Here is a handy diagram:

I ran the alpine 8” powered sub but could never get it tuned correctly for the cab. These cabs are finicky when it comes to tuning. You don’t need much power in there to get the SPL’s plenty decent. For a modern factory+ performing system, my plan is to go with a pair of the pioneer ultra compact powered subs. They are small enough to fit just behind the seat brackets and have excellent reviews. Checkout GJeep’s build for details. He’s the one who first had the idea to use them in an MJ afaik. My audio system is kicker KS 5.25 components up front, KS 4x6 in the b pillars and a pair of the pioneer micro subs running from an 8 channel DSP/amp so I can delete the passive crossovers up front and run an active system. Should be able to fine tune that to get the sound I want (which for me will need to sound at least like a new Mercedes audio system).

I made them. Designed them then had them printed. They are laminated with a UV coating and are waterproof

Managed to find an overhead console for an XJ with a sunroof. It’s a short console with lights and the compass/temp display. It only has the single attachment point and shouldn’t really need to be modified at all to fit the MJ. I’ll restore it and cover it in the same fabric as the headliner. Getting closer to the final push to finish this project. Also got my wheel center cap emblems in for the turbines.

A tcase mounted parking brake is a nice option, then you can run a better caliper while having an awesome parking brake. A caliper based parking brake at the wheel has very little holding power and requires very little torque to breakaway. The parking brake shoes in the rotor hat is a better design due to the amount of pad contact area and the sort of mechanical “wedge” effect. It’s very hard to beat the parking brake of drum brakes but a tcase mounted brake comes close.

Getting a kick out the questions and answers in this thread

You could always re-drill the axle side mounting hole over closer to the passenger side to re-center the axle if needed.

The info you’re looking for is in the “DIY” section of the forum. Here is a link to the load valve delete:

I have a set at home I can check if no one replies in a bit. I want to say it’s an m6

Just to add to the chorus of voices here saying something similar, keep it stock!! Keep the interior, the engine, all of it.

Awesome! Glad you got it fixed. 99% of the time it’s something relatively simple

A continuity test is great if you’re sure you’ve isolated a single wire. Unfortunately, the level of splices and circuit sharing in the MJ/XJ is epic… Was your radio working recently? Look for something obvious, and try not to bypass any wiring. Normally it’s a simple fix. Do you have a factory wiring diagram?

Any steering wheel play?

Do the tests that @Limeyjeeper posted the other day. Should take 15-20 minutes but you’ll get some seriously good data:

No, the socket size should be 3/4 for the castle nut. The passenger side knuckle is where the drag link attaches from the steering box. I end that connects to the knuckle is a fixed end and not serviceable. The tie rod connects from the drag link near the passenger side and connects the driver side knuckle. The only replaceable TRE’s are at the steering gear box side and the drivers side knuckle unless you have a non-stock configuration. MOOG DS1046 should be the drag link that attaches from the passenger knuckle to the steering box.

It may be the wrong tie rod end. Or perhaps a previous owner drilled the knuckle for crossover steering or one ton tie rod ends. There is a fix if that’s the issue but you’ll need to examine it and see what the issue is. Is it both knuckles or just one? The 84-89 knuckles are no longer in production. The 90 and newer knuckles have a different caliper mount system but, if you needed to, you could change over to them. But you’d have to do the knuckle and caliper. And if you do that you might as well do the upper and lower ball joints. First things first though, knuckles don’t just go bad and are not a wear item. You either have a bad TRE (tie rod end) or someone may have modified it at some point. You need to find out if the actual knuckle taper is somehow modified or damaged. If the taper itself is confirmed to be bad after some testing and examination, you can use something like this to restore it: https://www.tmrcustoms.com/products/tie-rod-end-inserts-jeep-taper-tj-lj-xj-zj-mj

The likelihood of play coming from a faulty knuckle is slim to none. Tie rod end, ball joint or wheel unit bearing. Your mechanic should be able to tell you which beyond a shadow of a doubt within a minute or two.