ghetdjc320

I’ve run a Borgeson on my YJ until I jumped up to a PSC big bore box to handle 35’s. It was a good box but felt like a new wrangler and wasn’t quite like our wk2. Went with the Borgeson after going through probably 3 box store reman boxes. I must say, on my last MJ I ran a stock box remaned by PSC, the iron man off-road double sheer steering brace, ironman track bar (stock geometry and location but uses a double sheer bracket) and new moog ZJ steering linkage. In conjunction with the track bar axle side bracket replacement, black magic arp bolt and flag nut setup, nos upcountry sway bar and metal cloak control arms. I have to say, the steering was better than a new stock JL. And that was on 6” of lift with 33’s. It really was unbelievable and the steering quality never diminished in my 2 years of daily driving it all over the horrendous roads here in island. On my latest build, I’ve replicated most of those components but went with a quick turn red head box (12:1 iirc). Redhead is definitely one of the top rebuilders out there and make better than new boxes imo as they rebuild them to tighter tolerances than original. PSC will also sell you one of their reman stock boxes which is a very comparable quality but you have to call to request it as they don’t have them listed. What I’ve personally experienced though, is that to get close to R&P feel, several other “upgrades” are needed. Fortunately, those “upgrades” can be done where they do not interfere with a clean original build.

Interesting, I haven’t completed mine yet but I know they said they were waiting in some new cores when I ordered mine. Came in late last year iirc. I hope that radiator isn’t a $1200 paperweight… I ordered mine complete assembled with the fans. Came with some very nice Spal units with a larger one near the inlet/outlet.

Use some por15 first if you can. Then see if you can use some brushable seam sealer

I agree, swapping to a turbine style pump is worth it. The Bosch kit had a nice little adapter for it. Some of the pumps will lost both a free flow and a flow at given pressure in their specs. I personally went with the dw200 because of my engine swap. But I think I’d probably do it again even with a stock rig (though maybe a lower flowing unit depending on needs of the engine)

There’s not much difference in weight between an iron block lq4 and the 4.0. All the truck engines though will need car based accessory drives and intake manifolds if you want to fit under a stock hood. I went with an LS and saved a lot of swap headache trying to adapt those lq/lm truck engines but they are plentiful and fairly cheap.

Just keep the warranty info. Mine lasted about a year of daily driving but was warrantied out for free. Pump swaps really are quite simple on our trucks

You need epic tech You’ll find everything you’re looking for in those builds. Many a V8 swap along with some more exotic options. But if you have specific questions about those categories you mentioned, ask away . There are several here who can chime in with specific answers

Just read that their max temp on McMaster carr site is 180f. Wonder if they will hold up to the heat of the radiator. Please report back to let us know after you’ve had a chance to run the for some time

Great info and thanks for testing those out! I wish we could keep info like this compiled in a single place for quick reference. I guarantee you I’ll never be able to find your post again if I need it can't tell you how many times I’ve misplaced those bushings and had to look everywhere for them. Is the fit tight enough to keep from falling out easily if the radiator isn’t in place?

MTS has the HO sending unit available but the OP has an XJ tank from what I can see. The Bosch bump was a turbine pump and a very good unit but as you mentioned, almost impossible to find. It’s the adapter that came in that kit that I haven’t been able to locate anywhere. That being said, both myself and @Limeyjeeper have installed a deatshwerks DW200 pump on an MJ sending unit. It does require some engineering but works well. The airtex/precision pump from the parts store is hit and miss but use a cane style pump iirc. The Bosch and most other newer pump designs are a turbine design. Smaller, more efficient and quieter.

So I can comment a bit on this. @Minuit has the real info though. I picked up a Bluetooth module with has a pass through, that way I didn’t remove am or fm radio (am is used a bit here for emergencies so I wanted to keep it). The module itself is impressive with the latest streaming protocols. Jeremy was able to find a power source on the board for it. The challenge we had was regulating the line voltage as it’s too high. We intercepted the FM signal into the pre-amp board. So essentially, fm radio passes through the module at any time unless you start playing content through Bluetooth at which point it ducks the fm signal and passes through the Bluetooth. It seems that the am/fm input on the pre-amp board on the factory radios is very sensitive and requires a lower input voltage than what my module put out. I’d be curious to know the voltage output from the radio module to the pre-amp board. If we can find that exact number, we can lower the output voltage of whatever module gets installed to something that makes the pre-amp happy and will be a similar level to the radio/cassette at any given volume. My project is on hold a bit but will eventually go into my tomahawk build as I keep working on it.

Those darn seams I used my multitool with flexible caulk blades to remove all of that factory crap seam sealer. Every bit of it has to be removed on my current truck. Had they actually painted and finished the panels before sealing, they wouldn’t be this bad. Fortunately, once the sealer is removed, por15 loves to find its way down into those seams.

Whether it’s nos or not, it’s still just a clutch pack based lsd. I’d just grab a new truetrac. You can also use thick cut gearsets in the 44 to run numerically lower gears on this carrier.

My Accel clip failed as well on my MJ. Check for power at the fuel injector connectors. The power should be coming from pin 87 of the ASD relay. Check for power while cranking also

The side that feeds switched 12v to the coil also feeds 12v to the injectors and pin 30 on pretty much all the relays

Here is a clearer shot of the ignition coil wiring

I dug deep in my schematics but I used this diagram to create my standalone efi setup. This is a factory diagram for my 91 HO MJ

The 7 blade 4.0 fan in the picture above has been my go to fan with the Hayden/Napa ZJ clutch. I didn’t have any issues fitting it with my mishimoto radiator either. After many fan configurations, the 7 bald mech fan ZJ clutch and 10 blade late model XJ oem fan (only the genuine Mopar one) worked the best. I also upgraded the factory fan circuit and it also helped with a bit more RPM. I also used a resistor on the CTS to bring the e fan on about 10 degrees cooler than factory settings. Thats on an HO model MJ with a heavily built 4.0

This has always been quite the ordeal on my Jeeps. The bolt likes to seize inside the bushing sleeve. But for the most part, yeah, that should get you free. I have a sneaking suspicion that d44 is from something else like maybe a TJ. Are there any signs of old brackets that have been cutoff at some point? Is that a barcode gage on the left tube near the pumpkin?

And *if* you decide to swap to newer knuckles, there are probably several members who would buy your old ones.

You may find some of this info helpful: You should have no problem finding replacement brake parts for the pre 90’ knuckles. Jump on rock auto and order away. You can swap to the 90+ style knuckles and corresponding components, and yes, it is a bolt on mod (though also a good time to do ball joints). But I wouldn’t ever say the 90+ is an upgrade. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/jeep,1988,comanche,4.0l+242cid+l6,1181584,brake+&+wheel+hub

The ac voltage test on a variable reluctance sensor is somewhat subjective without a reference cranking rpm. The voltage is going to vary based on your cranking rpm and not all 4.0’s crank at the same speed as you well know. Battery voltage, ground and power cable condition and many other factors could greatly affect this reading. Try a fully charged battery with no spark plugs in the cylinders. My guess is that you’ll see a higher voltage. But again, try pulling out a plug and checking for spark before messing with the cps. You could get better sensor resolution when lessening the air gap, but it should still run just fine at the factory gap. Out of curiosity, did it start taking longer and longer to start recently?

HO is a Hall effect sensor. Renix is VR. To the OP: do you have any spark? Have you checked fuel???

It’s a binary switch so the only question is whether or not the temperatures are rated the same but it shouldn’t be far off. It can be bypassed and probably won’t cause any problems. Just make sure to keep the pressure switch that goes on the dryer.

Most auto body shops and auto glass shops will have a huge variety to choose from in stock.