ghetdjc320

You’ll need something to keep consistent pressure on that seal along the pillar. Some sort of backing material. I think limeys solution was a good idea. So I guess no one has been able to identify what the a pillar secondary seal mounted to on the 97+?? That seal is still available from several sources but I don’t know what it mounts to (see pic above and red circle)

Just to follow up, I’d like to confirm this info for future reference. Can anyone get us a picture of the secondary seal and what it mounts to on a 97+ XJ A pillar? I’m aware of many referring to the the 97+ door seals which seal the door to the cab opening but this is the secondary seal that runs along the A pillar and is not part of the main door seal in either pre or post 97 models. The part numbers and diagrams I’ve found don’t match the Mopar parts diagram either. Is it possible there were 3 or more variations of this seal over the years? TIA

I’m seeing that part number superseded by 55175355AC and seeing quite a few of those in stock. But according to the picture in the diagram below, it still looks like the seal is mounted to some sort of lip. What is that lip? Does someone have a good picture(s) of an a pillar from a 97+ XJ with this seal setup. It’s listed as the “seal, secondary”.

So there is an a pillar seal for the 97+ that is similar to the 96-? Any chance you have a part number for that? I was under the impression they did away with the a pillar seal on 97+ but I haven’t really spend any time looking for that part on a 97+ Edit: found an image of what I believe to be the 97+ a pillar seals. They appear to be a more block style design which makes sense. I’ll see if I can find some decent used ones. @eaglescout526 any chance you have a part number for these? Edit 2: these seals are for a TJ

Any chance you were able to get those pics? Thanks

What specifically are you referring to? I’ve heard this mentioned before but the only thing I’ve seen used from the 97+ is the actual door seal. Haven’t seen anything that actually replaces this a pillar seal.

Who knows . I just need one or two though

Awesome! Thanks a ton for making these .

Any chance you can get some daytime shots of how these look from different angles? Thanks

Yes those are it. Is that your post?

Yes, it’s in rough shape but I hadn’t personally ever seen such a console. It’s out of a 90’ XJ with factory sunroof option. I got some headliner fabric from sms to recover it. Will disassemble it all and make it like new. I also have the back half of the console but not sure if I’ll use it or not.

Need one or two decent turbine center caps with no chrome damage. I don’t mind if the “Jeep” logo is missing or damaged as I have a new set I’ll be using. TIA

Are they both coil on plug engines? Iirc 99 was the changeover year.

If you have a hydraulic press or even a good air hammer, you can tighten down the main pin for the pedal until you get almost zero play (make sure it still move smoothly though). You can also tighten the pin for the catch lever/cam. A slightly tighter lever spring and you should be good to go.

Do you have some part numbers for those Indak GM switches?

If a certain vehicle takes someone out of their comfort zone, they probably shouldn’t be driving that vehicle. A person who is overly cautious can cause accidents just like a person who is overly confident (the on-ramp is a great example of this). A Comanche doesn’t seem like that old of a vehicle to me but that’s just because I grew up riding in tri-5’s and early mustangs that my dad and I would work on. I recall the accelerator linkage getting stuck at full throttle, brakes going out and having to pump them up to get any stopping power, a rear end getting locked up going down the road etc etc. Cars are definitely safer today. Although I do find that there seems to be a tendency towards complacency when you have certain “smart” car features. There really aren’t any regulations regarding modding your vehicle. You can basically re-engineer the entire thing and there isn’t anyone who’s going to check that work. Throw some shoddy work in the mix and that’s a recipe for disaster. Imagine a welded control arm, crossover steering or track bar giving out while driving… the scenarios are endless

Ask @Gjeep he’s had them for a while now. 50 clean watts with the right input voltage can be quite powerful.

You’ll need to find the centerline of your axle and measure 21” away on each side. That mark will be the center of your spring perches. Keep in mind also that now is when you will set your pinion angle. If you’re using a standard or original style driveshaft, the pinion will need to be about 1-2* up from parallel to the ground. Here is a handy diagram:

I ran the alpine 8” powered sub but could never get it tuned correctly for the cab. These cabs are finicky when it comes to tuning. You don’t need much power in there to get the SPL’s plenty decent. For a modern factory+ performing system, my plan is to go with a pair of the pioneer ultra compact powered subs. They are small enough to fit just behind the seat brackets and have excellent reviews. Checkout GJeep’s build for details. He’s the one who first had the idea to use them in an MJ afaik. My audio system is kicker KS 5.25 components up front, KS 4x6 in the b pillars and a pair of the pioneer micro subs running from an 8 channel DSP/amp so I can delete the passive crossovers up front and run an active system. Should be able to fine tune that to get the sound I want (which for me will need to sound at least like a new Mercedes audio system).

I made them. Designed them then had them printed. They are laminated with a UV coating and are waterproof

Managed to find an overhead console for an XJ with a sunroof. It’s a short console with lights and the compass/temp display. It only has the single attachment point and shouldn’t really need to be modified at all to fit the MJ. I’ll restore it and cover it in the same fabric as the headliner. Getting closer to the final push to finish this project. Also got my wheel center cap emblems in for the turbines.

A tcase mounted parking brake is a nice option, then you can run a better caliper while having an awesome parking brake. A caliper based parking brake at the wheel has very little holding power and requires very little torque to breakaway. The parking brake shoes in the rotor hat is a better design due to the amount of pad contact area and the sort of mechanical “wedge” effect. It’s very hard to beat the parking brake of drum brakes but a tcase mounted brake comes close.

Getting a kick out the questions and answers in this thread

You could always re-drill the axle side mounting hole over closer to the passenger side to re-center the axle if needed.

The info you’re looking for is in the “DIY” section of the forum. Here is a link to the load valve delete: