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I’ve never seen one of those before on an ax15. I can’t tell for sure but it looks like an angled piece to adjust how the shifter base sits. It may be part of the shifter you have instead of the transmission. ???

What are your referring to? The 12cw went the way of the dinosaur and was replaced by the 4cw.

Next up: Axle swap...

With lots of money, yes. Buy a TJ rubicon front. But it is really not a “true” D44. Only the ring and pinion are D44 size. Plus they are a low pinion design which is inherently a weaker design than a high pinion for the front axle. For a TJ they either ran a low pinion 30 or a low pinion 44 up front. Obviously the front 44 would be stronger vs the LP30 but a high pinion 30 is very close if not the same in terms of real world strength to a 44 TJ rubicon axle. All these TJ rubicon front 44’s were really not the stoutest versions of the axle. Nothing like the old Dana 44’s with hubs and big axle tubes. The new generation 44’s are also substantially stronger. If you grab a “real” 44 front from a grand wagoneer or older Ford or Chevy truck you’ll be surprised how much heavier it is than your stock rear 44. But your not going to run 5x4.5 and have decent hubs. Although the 5x4.5 pattern is not an inherent weakness in the axle, it is not an HD truck pattern. It’s a Ranger, Explorer, XJ, TJ, ZJ, MJ etc pattern. None of those are what I would consider a “heavy duty” truck. So when you want to step up to real heavy duty axles, your not going to find the relatively small 5x4.5 pattern. The spindle is just too small. And just to throw this out there, the stock MJ/XJ 44 rear is a neat option and stronger than a stock D35 for sure but sometimes the strength is a little overstated. They are still a lightweight truck axle. An HP30 matches those stock 44’s very well.

There was a nice sign we hung outside our conference room when I worked telecom. Still remains one of my favorite expressions: ”None of us is as dumb as all of us”

The only d44 axle that bolts in to our MJs as was mentioned is a TJ rubicon front. Most will cost more that many paid for their trucks. For the most part, Jeep hasn’t used any “hubs” since 1986 on the CJ7. Unit bearings are what our axles all run. Some have converted Dana 30’s and 44’s to Ford locking hubs but they are petite with the 5 on 4.5 pattern. I know many balk at running another wheel pattern but the 6 on 5.5 from a grand Wagoneers plus a rodeo HD44 is quite a nice combo. Obviously, you’ll need new wheels. But again, if your running 35’s or below, our HP D30s are not a ticking time bomb and hold up just fine. And for the most part, your front axle will see far less torque than the rear.

I can confirm the ZJ parts are a direct bolt on replacement for stock steering on MJ’s YJ’s and TJ’s. I run that setup currently on my MJ.

As was mentioned, Moog and Spicer along with oem Mopar are all decent components. If your wanting new steering linkage then consider replacing your tie rod with the Moog tie rod for the grand Cherokee (ZJ). It’s a much stronger unit over the original. That swap is very well documented as are the part numbers you need. Bolts right in with zero mods.

@Dzimm, this is right up your alley

This has got to be the longest thread for the simplest issue

If you don’t have time to take the head to the machine shop and want a more turnkey install, just get a remanufactured head along with valve cover, thermostat housing and I take/exhaust gasket. Fairly straight forward driveway job.

Yep all pre 90 knuckles had a threaded lower insert to set the ball joint preload. The ball joint itself is really the same though (any differences are extreme negligible). My 91 D30 was non-cad and has the bigger u joints. Perhaps it was an abs axle???

The TJR d44 front was really just the diff. Everything else was a d30. I know when they came out with the JK “HD” 44 rear, it had already been out for almost a decade but gained popularity and recognition with the JK release. Nothing new, just reused/repurposed leftovers. I haven’t seen Dana/Spicer make any complete one-off item that was only on one model vehicle.

It’s like a #6 sheet metal screw for goodness sakes. Show it who’s boss

That makes sense. I doubt Dana would have made a one-off axle just for the TJR.

I’ll second that

Is your goal to replace or upgrade steering components, suspension or both? There is no “kit” that includes ball joints with steering linkage. Best to piece these parts together so you can get good quality parts.

Gotcha. That makes sense.

Would you keep it after you fix it or get rid of it? If your keeping it just take the head off and get it milled flat while it’s out. Maybe valve job and seals too if it’s original. Throw in a good MLS gasket like a Cometic or Mopar Performance gasket. If you just want to sell it then a gasket swap only I guess but no telling if you have any warpage that will blow it again.

How did you do that??? Did you just lift it an inch or so?

I like the look of that! Looks better than the two imo

Quite true

Most sizes are #8 and #10 with a few others thrown in for kicks lol

Youll end up needing more screws eventually so a good multipack kit of sheet metal pan-head screws comes in handy. Just don’t get the countersink Sheetrock style heads as they will split your plastic trim. The washer head screws are also really handy and most auto parts stores carry a variety. Most screws are between 1/2-1”. 5/8 or 3/4” will fit 90% of your interior trim spots