SatiricalHen

You can use a GM sensor or find a used one. That’s about the options we have available. Even with the new intake I’ll be using renix sensors so I’ll need it. If I did the math right I got 17 mpg this fill up, but I also did injectors and spark plugs at the same time so that probably did a good bit too. Usually get around 15ish I think. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What did you do about the vacuum lines to the egr? Been meaning to completely remove mine, but for now the vacuum line from the solenoid is just plugged. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just last week a guy on Cherokee forum said he saw a Comanche crushed and only had time to save the Lund visor off of it. Taillights, interior, and drivetrain all gone. The one at the local yard was completely picked and soon to be crushed. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

There is a Comanche in the yard near me, I realized shipping cost money, and I realize pulling cost time. I’ve gone out to yards all over my area. I understand it’s rare that Comanches in particular are scrapped. Some people just want parts to go to a good home so they’ll let go of them cheaper. I know a few guys I’ve talked to have let go of drivetrains for next to nothing because they were 2wd or no one wanted them. Well I’m putting it out there that I want it in case it’s going to get tossed. Don’t think I’m not actively going to yards and searching too. I’m not lazy as you are implying. I’m just reaching out to as many venues as I can hoping to get a good deal on parts. A 2wd ax-15 can come from tons of Cherokees and Comanches, and I know a lot of guys do 4wd swaps both Comanche and Cherokee. The thing is there are tons of these scrapped everyday which is why there are so few in the yards. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Another thing I’m looking for is a black (if they made black) or grey/dark grey (the darker the better) 3 spoke steering wheel. All these parts I’m casually looking for, aka being scrapped or tossed out and you want a little more than the yard will pay. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Finally fixed the stumbling and backfiring. Unplugged the IAT, MAT, or whatever you want to call it. Runs like a champ. Now just need to get me a replacement for it. Also, I’m finally getting some mean lemons battery cables to fix this there is maybe an inch or so of insulation left on my ground cable. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just thought I’d come back with the solution even though this isn’t my thread. Unplugged the IAT and it runs perfect. Just need to get a replacement for it now. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Great products, bad company. I have their long arms and steering on my Cherokee, but they have made a lot of empty promises and it’s been almost a year with no following through. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ve replace the fuel filter, new wires, cap and rotor, removed the cat, it blew the muffler up (so for now it’s straight pipe till I fix it), cleaned tb, cleaned iac, adjusted tps, new air filter, refreshed grounds and went through most of cruisers renix tips and that’s all I can think of right now. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Eventually I’ll put a 99 intake and newer head in, so there’s no place for egr down the road, but I’d like to at least temporarily test it and see if it does anything. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I always recommend long arms over ~3” of lift if they’re in the budget. They’re so much smoother on and offroad. Most any Cherokee long arms will fit a Comanche. The front ends are the same, and the biggest issue is the brace on the side of Comanche frame rails right where the crossmember mounts. Cherokees don’t have these. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No real updates, but I do have some ideas I want to try. Not sure when I’ll get around to them, but when I repair the headliner I would like to fiberglass in some speakers as well. My Comanche doesn’t have any factory speakers or places for speakers (door panels don’t have the grills and b pillars don’t have the brackets). The guy before me had some speaker boxes behind the seat which I’m still using for now, but I’d like to be able to put my backpack or a jacket or something back there. I figure the best option would be to put some 6.5” coaxial speakers in the headliner and have it kinda like the Cherokee sound bar since I’ll be taking the doors on and off and like the door panels, and the speaker location in the b pillars seems like it would get pretty muffled. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I actually plan to lower the truck and don’t plan to ever really take it offroad besides a possible gravel or dirt road here or there. Do those links go between the leafs or would they hit? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Do you have any info on it? Like what parts and stuff, or if you’d go with a thicker or thinner one? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Could you take a picture of the “egr cap” I’m having a stuttering/stumbling issue and I can’t seem to get it resolved. I’m swapping in some new injectors this weekend, but would like to try capping the egr too and see if it helps any Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ve used peel and seal in my Cherokee and my Comanche along with frost king duct insulation to help with temperatures some. Makes a huge difference. Everyone is shocked how quiet my cherokee is, and the Comanche doesn’t have any interior other than the dash and the seat. It was unbearably loud, but it’s much better now. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Why did it lift rear wheels? Was the rear just stiffer than the front? I feel if both are similar in stiffness it should sit fairly flat. Was this all on road or offroad also? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I saw the write up for the SWB by Jeep Driver, but it says empty post in the first post and the closest other thing I can find is HOrnbrod’s LWB write up. Has anyone diyed a rear sway bar on a SWB and has pictures or details? Trying to make the Comanche handle better on the road since I have my Cherokee to beat offroad. Thanks in advance! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Long arms aren’t just for off-road capability the help tremendously with on-road driving and feel. My xj with 5.5” of lift and long arms rides better than when it was at 3” and short arms. It’s all in the geometry of the suspension. I’ve had the 4.5” and the 5.5” rubicon express coils and the 4.5” were pretty soft and rode good, but with my tire/bumpstop/lift height and the kind of use my Cherokee gets I hit the bumpstops much more often than I do with the 5.5” lift. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have a set on my 99 cherokee. Once I get the Comanche running better and I have more cash flow I’ll be buying another set for it. Also, plan to get his motor and trans mounts when I do a drivetrain swap in the Comanche. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If you 4” lift isn’t long arms, you’ll benefit more from long arms than shocks in your smooth ride. Also, spring rate has a big part in smooth ride. For shocks I run bilstein 5100s and I’m happy with the ride. I’m not always hitting the bumpstops cruising down trails like I was before. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I know there is a guy on Cherokee forum running them, Outlaw Star is his name. He seems to like them Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well I haven’t done a ton to my Comanche, v8 zj sway bar, ordered injectors, have a couple of headliners (I’ll fix one up and throw it in), got a new driver’s side wheel cylinder, and my roommate and I did a compression test on the engine tonight, and it was terrible. Cold, turning the engine over with the starter, spark plugs in and throttle closed (which seems to be where everyone is concerned so I’ll do it again tomorrow probably) Cylinder- reading in psi 1-30 2-30 3-30 4-0 5-30 6-10 So maybe the numbers tomorrow will look better, maybe the oreillys gauge is bad, but a couple of plugs were wet with oil, here’s one plug it was the worst of all. Burnt on there. Seems like a new engine is not many miles down the road for this Comanche. So now I need to decide, build a stroker, buy a stroker, buy a reman engine, buy a junkyard engine, or rebuild back to stock (probably a slight bore depending on the condition of the walls). Not sure what is the “best” option. I’ve always wanted to try to build an engine, and I’ve always wanted a stroker, but I don’t know if I’m ready for that or not. I’d still like to run regular gas and have the engine be very reliable. Any tips or suggestions? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have a few Cherokee parts and a few Comanche parts. All of the Cherokee parts I have would be off of or for a 97+ since that’s what I have, and I have, or can get a few Comanche parts. If you’re wanting to trade let me know what you might be looking for and we can try and work something out. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

-Looking for a back panel, if really cheap, or a write up to make one. -Rear speaker brackets that go in the b pillar if cheap -drivers side tail light with no hole, don't care much what it looks like if the lens is whole. -would like the bolt for the rear tailgate latch on the body side, the ones that the tail gate supports hook to ( don't need asap, but if someone is getting ready to scrap a Comanche or something I'll take them) - 2wd ax-15 (basically if someone is scrapping one I'll throw you a few bucks over scrap, but not looking to spend a fortune) most of these parts are if I get them cheap or on trade. I don't have a lot of cash, but know there are Comanches and Cherokees with these parts everyday being scrapped and I'd like to save these parts if possible.