coolwind57

Pulling tranny today. Started on it yesterday and got most items from it disconnected and ready. Ran into the dreaded quick disconnects for the lines running to the radiator. Forward one came off without a hitch. Rearward one had issues. One of the two plastic "ears" snapped and I can't get the line to pop out at all. Tried gently sticking a micro flat screwdriver in there to compress what's left of the plastic ear, but to no avail. The block of metal that it pops into seems removable from the body of the transmission. Looks like a wrench fits right on there (probably a 18 or 19mm. Can I just remove this from the body of the transmission? Or will this open up a whole can of worms? Just looking at it, it appears that as I rotate the block with my wrench, the tube within might allow rotation and removal from the body. I figured I could deal with the fitting once I get the trans out. Comments/Experience?

So here's a pic of an aged, distorted O-ring versus the new replacement one from Crown: This is the lower shaft O-ring, btw.

While I've got most of my accessories off of the engine, I thought I'd go ahead and address the oily passenger side of the block. Oil is pretty-much covered from the cylinder head on down. My starter is oil covered and I am suspecting the oil filter adapter, which is a common source on these Jeep 4.0 vehicles. I pulled the oil filter adapter off last night (takes a 16mm wrench) and brought it to work today and cleaned it up and painted it. The old O-rings were pressed flat and were hardened. There's three total, two on the shaft and one on the adapter where it mates the engine. No need to paint of course, but what the heck. I had the time, the paint, and it helps identify parts that had been worked on when one opens the hood. Might be helpful, I dunno. Looks pretty, regardless. The O-ring kit is Crown part number 33002970K if you can't see it in the photo.

If you end up going this route, please post pics and your experience. I'd like to do this my self one day.

So, I've got a freeze plug issue. #5 plug on side of block was repaired with one of those rubber plugs. I suppose it got the previous owner by for a bit but it started leaking a week or so ago. A lot. I think I have coolant coming from back of engine as well, so this means I probably have on of the two rear plugs leaking too (head and/or block). I'll inspect more closely to better determine. I hate the thought of pulling the transmission to get to them. I really wonder if these leaks were started by my flushing the coolant system real good. Perhaps PO installed a stop leak or something, "fixing" some leaking a while back. So I've got the manifolds pulled--good Heavens, there must be a secret to removing intake bolts! I've got to discover it. Took me forever. Access was crazy. i do not look forward to fishing them back in during re-install. I went ahead and did an EGR delete. I chose not to replace this expensive part and felt no need to keep it, as my area does not have emissions testing. I did open my diaphragm and found, like others, that the spring inside was toast--complete disintegrated. I also chose to retain both Renix manifolds. I've got a bit of welding to do on the exhaust manifold to repair some cracks. I cut the exhaust-to-intake EGR tube, rolled each of the ends and sealed with weld. So anyhow, freeze plugs come in tomorrow.

That's the plan. Funny, I had just ordered replacement motor mounts minutes before I read your comment. I think I'll weld a small gusset in there just to make me feel better about it.

Good to hear! You don't have a pic by chance do you? I'm thinking of a 3-point attachment at last two tubes and main trunk. I'm thinking that this type of gusset, COUPLED with a flex tube at my down pipe might be a winning combination. Sucks that no one seems to making a renix header with those flex joint like you see on later XJs.

Hair blow dryer. It plugged in cigarette lighter or you could have them dealer-mounted on the roof, passenger side. It was a Comanche option, but only in 85.

I've not heard of rubber, but vinyl is someone common. Try a search for vinyl instead of rubber. JC Whitney has them if this is what you're actually looking for: http://www.jcwhitney.com/auto-custom-carpets-heavy-duty-vinyl-flooring-kits/p2007280.jcwx?skuId=10146498&TID=gglpla&origin=pla&VSID=d50344y1986j1&86JeCoAutAC111633901342&gclid=CjwKCAiA8P_TBRA9EiwAJrpHM7c1hqdKr577ruRnqRUPSRAl0pL-AR7R-QdF3Csh2-JTC05QpijcfRoCZLEQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Ok, common item. My header is cracked at second to last pipe. The crack is at the weld where the pipe meets the main tube. I've been reading a lot about options on here. Most all say to replace with later XJ or go for new Pacesetter. I'm open to either, but I wonder if I can save money and not replace and be ok. I've read that repairs usually just crack again, so I ask this just as an idea. Has anyone re-welded and then reinforced with gussets? I am toying with the idea of adding a gusset or two to the common crack areas. Coupled with a flex pipe at the downpipe, I wonder if this could be a permanent fix. I welcome your thoughts.

Ok, just got around to finding the culprit of my latest issue, the leak. Check out his pic: I guess someone didn't want to pull the manifolds, did they? I'm on it. May take me a couple of weekends, but I'll get er done.

This is going to be a good thread to follow! "Show me." --Arnold "Arnie" Cunningham, 1983's Christine.

Three hours drive from me. I'm intrigued....

Lovely. I'll get a chance to look more closely into this leak tomorrow night. Man, I'd like to say that it is unlikely that freeze plugs are the issue with the truck being less than 120K original miles, but that probably doesn't make so much a difference. Looking at the pic (and others who've had this issue) makes we wonder why this particular location seems so susceptible. I saw that Nickintimefilms used steel replacement plugs instead of brass. He also used no supplemental sealer compound. He mentioned the differing expansion rates of brass and chose to go with steel because of it. I did see many people on this forum use brass and I suppose they were successful. Upon looking at your gruesome pic, I'm certainly leaning towards brass if this is the source of my leak.

haha! Good analogy. She called me carabao whenever I belch out loud.

Great comments, fellas. Thanks. I suppose I needed that.

Been plagued with hesitation and dying problems at stop lights. Parts cannon on-going. More parts ordered the other day to address this. Also parts ordered to fix my annoying, dangling exhaust down pipe--donut gasket, replacement flange bolt kit. Walked past my truck last night and noticed a coolant leak that appears to be dripping from back of oil pan. My blood ran cold. I could not locate a leak source from hoses or water pump, but it was dark and cold so I need to do more inspection. Anyhow, I feel the wind taken from my sails as I ponder if I have a bad freeze plug now. The thought of my dropping trans and/or pulling intake/exhaust/head makes me a bit sick to my stomach. Looks like leaky freeze plugs are somewhat common for our MJs. Wife kind of dislikes this truck, as she doesn't understand that I not only bought it for its utility but I also bought it for a cool project for me to tinker with and restore. She expects vehicles to serve one purpose--to work. And anything less than that expectation makes them junk. Can't wait to try to get her to understand why, once again, the truck can't be driven. My 4x4 is now acting up too. Works, but makes tons of alarming noise when engaged. I haven't even had the time to look into this issue yet. Working on this truck has been fun, there's no doubt. But I question how much more time, money and aggravation till it becomes not worth it.

Good looking color.

Thanks for posting the pics, Pete. I kinda dig it. The hat band is cool and I like the felt color. I wonder if it's beaver felt or wool. Even though it is a cowboy style, I'd love to have one. I'd wear it.

I'd love to see a pic of a Jeep Comanche Stetson. I can't seem to find anything about them on web searches. I am a hat guy, usually wear a trilby and sometimes a fedora for Fall/Winter dress. I hate traditional cowboy hats, but I do often wear a Bolero on stage. Has kinda become my trademark, I suppose. Was the Jeep Comanche a line of Stetsons, or a single design?

I also read that loosened intake bolts may cause these type of issues. I'll snug them tight tonight when i get home. I document my trials and errors here and ask questions not only in the hopes that i can fix my problem, but also to benefit the next poor soul that has similar issues. I have read many previous posts relating to this issue and many simply seemed to have dropped off and become inactive without the original poster identifying how he found the solution. I sure want this issue to have a happy ending because right now I can't help but feel that disappointment creeping in that I jumped into this unique world of MJ ownership.

Thank you very much for the response, Sir. We'll try that. Beginning to run out of ideas, I'm afraid. Ordered a NGT O2 sensor and NGK copper plugs today. We'll try that next weekend when they arrive. Good Lord, I hope that's it. I did find #1 spark plug wire occasionally arcing outside the boot to the head. Pulled the wire and found what appears to be corrosion on the metal clip that grips the spark plug. This is a 4-Month old set of wires. Anyhow I cleaned it all up, Oxyguarded the metal, used di-electric on inside of boot and reinstalled with wire dryer spray afterwards. I suppose I didn't quite have it secured on the plug maybe. ...I can't help but remember how the rpm and idle was good prior to me pulling the bed and replacing the new tank and fuel filter. I think I screwed something up between that and the hour-long cranking of the engine to get it to start after getting it all back together.

Performed Cruiser54's Tip 5, checking for bad grounds throughout the harness. Set my multimeter to Ohms 20. Set black probe to battery NEG and my red probe to TPS wire B. It pulled a .50 the whole time I wiggled the main wiring harness. GROUNDS GOOD. Did fuel pressure check. Was running 32psi during idle and it jumped to 39psi when I disconnected VAC tube to regulator. Pressure bled down pretty good after I shut engine off (to about 20psi in about 20-minutes) but I think my fitting wasn't so secure. Wasn't too worried, as my engine has always started promptly. Probably the rental pressure gauge fitting. FUEL PRESSURE GOOD. Completely tested MAP with a vacuum pump/guage. Input/output voltage with key on tested fine. Output voltages tested fine as well as I presented various stages of vacuum. MAP GOOD. I sprayed carb cleaner along vacuum lines and especially at joint and fittings. Appears to have no vacuum leaks. I'm going to go ahead and replace my O2 sensor with a good NTK. From what I read, testing requires more work to find anything close to accurate troubleshooting for a 28-year old original O2 sensor than is worth. Another interesting thing I read: An exhaust leak from a cracked header or a very leaky downpipe connection (in which I have) can cause poor O2 sensor input to the system. I'll tighten my leaky downpipe, replace O2 and hope this fixes my problems. Still anxious to hear if EGR needs to be looked at that my be causing my issues. Can I just pop and plug the vacuum line somewhere to quickly eliminate it as a culprit?

Cruiser54, I had indexed that butterfly as described on your tips. Would playing around with that set screw during idle have any positive effect on my low rpm? Or does IAC supposed to totally control idle rpm?

Some significant changes, but still have idle issues, low rpm and the engine still dies often at stop lights. New 4-hole 746 injectors installed. New Mopar TPS installed today. New lifetime warrantied CPS installed last week--I did Cruiser54's advance mod on it and opened up the top mounting hole to get it a bit closer to the flywheel. New killer primo distributor cap with the brass contacts installed last week. I tested MAP last week, but had no vacuum guage/pump to really do it justice. I used my lungs to check for voltage variances. It seemed to be ok, but obviously the test without a vacuum pump tool ain't gonna be 100%. Today, I got the vacuum tool from AutoZone and I'll do it right tomorrow. I also picked up a fuel pressure test kit from Autozone. I'll have to figure out how to use it, but I think I read that I probably should check fuel rail pressure for my troubleshooting this problem. I'm going to try Cruiser54's Tip 5, although I did already check the TPS for good ground when I put it on. Maybe somewhere else in that harness is giving me fits. I also plan to muiltimeter check O2 sensor tomorrow, but I want to go ahead and order a new NGK one anyhow. I'm sure this is probably the original one I have on there. I have just over 120K miles I think. Even if the O2 test passes, I assume that the performance of my sensor likely degraded over the past 29-years. I've had three different stock IACs on there with no change for my problem. This thing is still dying at most stop lights and has a very low idle while stopped and in drive. I am hearing deviation in idle speed and general behavior, so I think that's probably what is happening--IAC is searching. I read that EGR is operational only really at acceleration? So a bad EGR shouldn't effect anything at idle, right? Would bypassing it temporarily help with this diagnosis at all? Besides my continuing troubleshooting plan for tomorrow, does anything else come to mind to help me out here?