coolwind57

Where do you get with your IAT (aka Manifold air temperature sensor and by other names)? Looks like you found some issues but I didn't see a followup. I'm reading that its resistance is read by the ECU to help determine fuel/air mixture. If it doesn't do its job and is an open circuit (non continuity), it causes the ECU to enrich the fuel/air mixture on a hot engine because it thinks the engine is cold. Sounds like it can be related to our issues. Apparently, same goes for the CTS (coolant temperature sensor) located on the driver's side of the block. http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Engine/Basic_Sensors_Diagnostics.htm I'm going to go check mine along with my CTS when I get some time.

Did you order the 58497s? My local Advance Auto says they can't order them. Not even in the system.

Well, a new coil isn't the solution. Same ol' issue. Sorry man. Keep us updated por favor. I just heard a comment after starting last night as I left work, "Good Lord man, is your truck running rich?"

ok new coil installed. Honestly, I have my doubts but I found an extra 20-bucks and bought this part so why not try. Will report back in a couple of days with results or disappointments. Here's a comparison between the old and new: The NGK is a bit thinner, but has all copper contacts. The stock one has copper contacts below, but a silver-colored contact where the coil wire fits. NGK cover completely surrounds the stacked plates, where the old stock one surrounds 3 sides only. There were several other aftermarket brands available that were cheaper, but opted for the NGK due to brand recognition and reputation.

I've got a new ignition coil that should arrive today, but I won't get an opportunity to install it till tomorrow. This has been a slow and steady parts-cannon approach for me, as I've replaced and properly tuned/adjusted nearly everything possibly associated with this issue. I'll let you know what happens. Only two other things I can think of that I hadn't yet done: a new fuel pump and Cruiser54's injector harness crimp repairs, both of which I'd deemed least likely a cause. .

Shipped it back today and I'll await to see if the refund goes smoothly. I did get a chance to multimeter the float arm to check for resistance throughout its range. It gave me varying degrees of ohms as I lifted the arm, like it was suppose to. I measured resistance at the lever joint and at the connector. The float arm length difference between theirs and the stock assembly was discussed earlier and you can see that they're not identical. Perhaps this is why I was not getting a gauge reading when I had a quarter tank of fuel. Regardless, not registering a 1/4 tank is not acceptable to me. I suppose I'll have to live with my epoxy'd original sending unit. The white marine epoxy used to seal the leaky metal tubes coming out of it has lasted almost a year so far. Maybe one day I'll send my fuel sending unit out to Tristarr like Limeyjeeper did. I would like to see if 87 and below MJs used MTS' style of flimsy sending unit. But there is most certainly something goofy going on with their choice of float arm length as it appears to be inappropriate for my 23.5 gallon tank.

Oh, do tell.....

I remember putting a new tank on a couple years ago and getting those hoses lined up in such tight quarters was a b#@#! I bet whoever worked on it last did the best they could at the moment and said "close enough". Hate to say it, but you may need to drop the tank and bit and look for kinks or abnormalities on those rubber lines leading into and out of the tank.

EXACT issues here, Hudy so I feel your pain. I'd posted about it in the past too. Delayed starting after excessive cranks with significant gas smell when it does come to life. I've been dealing with it for the last year or two. I've replaced nearly every component with an abbreviation plus many more parts involving the starting and general operation of the engine. Reading with great interest. Dying to find a culprit.

I spoke with Jeremy this morning about my issues with the new fuel sender/pump. He said that they'd essentially reverse engineered from a 1987 unit that they'd gotten from Florida. Their new units are nearly exact duplicates from it. I suppose the Florida unit was different from mine then because my has two, very secure attachment points for the pump, with two rubber isolators that are secured onto the pump body. As for the sender not registering on my fuel level gauge (aka, not working), the only thing he could come up with is that they use some sort of spray preservative and that perhaps the gasoline didn't have enough time (or a high enough level in the tank) to dissolve it so that the sender could begin to send the signal to the fuel level gauge. I suppose that could happen. Anyhow, I didn't have my multimeter at the house to check ohms and I'll try do get that done before I pack this thing up and send it back to them. Thankfully, he is willing to honor the return. BTW, I forgot to mention to Jeremy about the tank ring not fitting the tank as others have also found to be the case. I was excited about this new product and I feel very disappointed that it did not meet expectations. Too bad because MTS seems to be a really cool company that's not afraid to take on this kind of stuff.

The old assembly has this. It is the top one that has screws that allow for pump removal and adjustment, I assume. This new one has no top secure point.

No there's just a flat metal ring down there that surrounds the intake nozzle of the pump. There's no positive secure point at all.

Pics:

Well so far, I'm disappointed in my new fuel pump/sender from MTS. At the bottom of the pump, there is a thick rubber piece. In fact, it was loose inside the shipping box when my parcel arrived. It does neither fit well onto the lower pump body, nor does it secure into the lower mount of the sender unit. I don't get it. The stock pump has both a upper and lower mount for the pump. BOth ends have a rubber sleeve and this makes the old pump fit securely onto the unit. With this one only having a lower mount, the pump just basically just dangles and because the rubber piece that's intended for the lower mounting bracket secures neither to the pump or the mount well, it just dangles on there, not really doing anything. I'm half afraid that it'll separate from the assembly and end up inside my tank no longer attached to anything. I carefully went ahead and installed this unit with apprehension, and my truck fired up but the sender is not working....my fuel gauge shows zero when I have 1/3 of a tank full. I don't have my multi-meter here at home. And like at least one other guy reported, the gasket ring does not fit. I had to use my old one. I pretty upset that I spend this much time for nothing.

If you get a chance, go check out my write-up on wipers. There's some good stuff in there from my experience in this area and lots of pictures.

Ah ha. You guys nailed it! In my 89, the lower flasher unit was the one that controls the turn signals. Mine was made of a plastic housing, unlike the aluminum housing of the upper flasher. The last time I went to the junkyard, I pulled flashers, fuses and a bunch of other stuff and bagged them up. That was a good plan, as I popped the plastic flasher out and replaced with a junkyard unit. I'm back in business. Thank you, Gentlemen. I'm a bit more knowledgeable now. Baby steps.

I've had a turn signal issue crop up over these past 3-4 weeks. We all know how funky our turn signals can be on these MJs, and I've found that a good cleaning or replacement of the bulbs usually fixes about every odd-ball, weird issue I've had since ownership. but I'm thinking this issue is different. About 50% of the time that I activate my signals, either side, my dash indicator lights up but it does not blink--just stays solid. Same with the outside lenses...they just stay lit up but don't blink. I've gone through all of the bulbs and sockets with thorough cleaning thinking that I'b be back in business and proud of myself. No-go. Sometimes, after i hit my lever, the dash indicator would light up and after a few seconds it would begin flashing and working correctly. But most of the time it wouldn't work. I've tried toggling back and forth, but really nothing helps. My emergency flashers work, so I would think that this proves my flasher unit is good. I'm beginning to think that perhaps my turn signal lever (stem/stalk) unit may be the issue. Anyone had to replace theirs? Any experiences in troubleshooting or fixing without full replacement? I'd done a search on the site regarding this lever assembly, but can't really find anything useful after 20-minutes. BTW, no cruise control on mine.

I suppose it would not be a bad idea to do it outside, maybe even using a floor dryer blower while I'm under there. Thanks.

They use US Motor works as the pump supplier. At least on the JPSU-6P unit that I ordered. Jeremy said they'd been using this company for their pumps for years.

Just ordered a sending unit assembly with pump. I spoke to Jeremy at MTS Company, who's been there 10-years. He said that it is almost comical that Comanche guys are calling in so excited. I ordered part JPSU-6P for my 1989 LWB 23.5 gallon tank, 4.0 L6 4X4. Some other items that Jeremy brought up about these units: They essentially reverse-engineered them. They use US Motorworks 3204 as the pump on these units and have used this company for years. He said they'd introduced and sold these units only since last Month. I'm kind of giddy about this, as my present unit looks pretty bad and would leak like a sieve if i didn't smear that Marine epoxy all over it. Were you able to remove the old one and replace it without dropping the fuel tank?

looks like no one is carrying those Monroe 58497 any more. Struck out with Walmart, Amazon, and Rock Auto. Must be discontinued.

I sure appreciate the input fellas. Here's what went down after I posted: I attempted to start every 8-10 minutes with the same results. At each fresh attempt, It would initially run for only a second or two and sound really bogged down. Twice it backfired before dying. Loud backfire too. Each time I added a second attempt, it would simply turn over, not coming close to starting again. I called a tow truck and they gave me an hour ETA, so I was accepted my fate that I was going to have to tow my truck back home across the State line. This would had been about a 30-mile tow. $45 hook up fee and $3 per mile if I remember the quote correctly. I had let her set for about a half-hour undisturbed before got a wild hair and decided to crank her over again. Damn thing came back to life as if nothing ever happened. I called and cancelled the tow company and made my way to school in the right lane (in case she died again) of multi-lane Dixie Highway in Louisville. It was a 100-degree heat index day, by the way and my rear was puckered the whole trip. I was convinced that she'd die again at one of Dixie Highway's many LOOOONG stop lights but she drove without a hiccup. Got a 97% on my final and nervously drove home at 11pm, again without a hiccup. I think I'm going with an overheated CPS on this one. Although I do believe my fuel pump probably needs replacement because of an unrelated issue--I have been plagued with slow-to-start conditions for a year now (I've posted on this previously). It is about the only thing I hadn't replaced regarding this sometimes hard-cranking issue. I have never had experienced such a curious, sudden dying of the engine before. First thing that went through my mind was that the engine just blew. I like this idea. I'll steal some keyboard compressed-gas duster and tuck it in my official rag/spare oil cubby next to my breather box. That stuff comes out cool when sprayed and just may be a temporary solution if this happens again. I don't recall ever running the AC at MAX for this long before....I rarely run it at all. I wonder if things just got unbearably hot for the CPS. It is an aftermarket CPS and not the original. I also advanced it a bit when I installed it, as recommended by Cruiser54. I didn't think of this at the time. Good idea. What I did do is check connectors, wires, fuel lines and all general connections throughout the engine bay. I checked the air filter. I inspected engine oil (for evidence of blown head gasket). I squeezed coolant hose and checked overflow bottle for signs of overheating (there was no noise, stains or anything...at the time, the engine was too hot to pull cap and check for adequate coolant). This morning i drove to work. She performed absolutely normally.

Today is final day and I left work to drive to my technical school. I came off the interstate, about a 20 minute drive onto a highway with lots of stoplights. After waiting on the first light, I accelerated and was building up to speed and then the engine just died. Does not appear to have overheated, oil looks good. If I let it sit for a few minutes it will start, although grudgingly. And then it dies after a few seconds. If it starts and I feather the gas, the pedal does not seem to increase RPM. It just ignores my attempts to increase the RPM and just struggles to stay running at a low RPM. Air filter clean. It’s hotter than hell out here so I had the air conditioner set at Max the whole way. No idiot lights. Fuel pump or regulator, perhaps? Anything I can do to check? Anything else come to mind? Found some shade and awaiting your response if anybody’s available. I suppose I’ll have to call a tow truck soon.

Give me the scoop? Angles are better....the wrenches are stronger and slimmer...more comfortable.... What's your reasoning? I think the Snap On offset opens have different angles than most all the others from what I remember reading. My buddy is a former instructor (powerplant) at the school I now attend. He showed me some of his tools. He's got a mixed assortment, even some craftsman stuff. He mentioned that he cringes when he would see a student go 15K in debt buying Snap On tools via the student program. He essentially recommended that if going hard-core Snap On is your thing, then wait till you're out in the field for a few years gaining experience. And do it then if you're into brand recognition. I remember seeing Proto, Craftsman, Snap On, Mac, Knipex in his toolbox. Yesterday, I picked up a Knipex 86 03 250 Plier Wrench. $50, which kinda hurt but this thing is a work of art. I also have their duckbill pliers and dykes. Those krauts know their stuff when it comes to building pliers and wrenches. Super well-made.