kastein

rockauto.com is where I get almost all my car parts unless I am in a tearing hurry to get a project done.

that's a much better way to replace pinion bearings :yes: X2 :D I have done gear lube, brake cylinders, and a new cover on my d35... brake cylinders can be reused on an 8.25 and I got the cover for free. When I get some free time the 8.25 I have is going into the MJ :yes: and the d35 is being gutted for parts.

I think it's a great idea but make sure whatever paint you're going to use will stick to zinc. Also, the real troublesome locations are where you can't get to - inside the frame rails, between two pieces of spot welded metal, etc. The only way really to do a good job galvanizing those sections would be to hot-dip the whole truck as soon as it's welded together, as soon as any rust forms in those areas, it's all downhill...

Probably anything is "traditional" somewhere. I grew up knowing about New England clam chowder and Manhattan clam chowder. The first time I was served Rhode Island clam chowder in a restaurant I thought I'd been cheated. Now I prefer it over the other two. Didja know in Rhode Island they eat French fries with vinegar, not ketchup? Yyyuucchh! True. I actually like fries with vinegar occasionally. But then again I like em with honey (yeah, I know, weird) or ketchup as well. As long as you keep the mustard away from me, no one gets hurt...

I actually have a fairly easy time with traffic circles, we have some of them up here in Mass too. On rt2 in mass we have amazing numbers of stop signs at the bottom of entrance ramps, too... because the highway curves so sharply right before them that you can't see if you are going to get wiped out if you try and merge, and the ramp is so steeply curved that you can't get enough speed up anyways! It's somewhat of a deathtrap. There are also traffic lights on rt2 in sections and they only operate at certain hours of the day, and the speed limit varies from 45 to 65 sometimes within a mile or two.

I'd replace the valve cover gasket, distributor gasket, timing chain cover gasket, front main seal, rear main seal, oil pan gasket, and freeze plugs... and then run it. Unless oil pressure seemed bad when you test drove it, then I might put bearings in it. I think even the gaskets I just listed probably cost more than an engine at the junkyard... and a junkyard engine probably hasn't been abused by a retarded hillbilly (I recall your story of the dumbarse who sold that thing to you :ack: ) so much as minorly neglected by a distracted soccer mom. Replace whatever's leaking already and run it till something else needs work, then maybe do a rebuild. Or stack it up with the others till 4.0s get more difficult to find and then rebuild and use it, right now there are hundreds going through the junkyards that are headed for the crusher, might as well stash a couple that can be fixed when needed.

deep fried ice cream is pretty good... one of my friends tells me they have deep fried coca cola (yeah, they deep fry coke concentrate. WTF?!) in Hong Kong and call it an American traditional food.

bread it with corn bread instead and I'm fairly certain it will become the best food on the planet!

Instead of gearing it back closer to stock you should put bigger tires and maybe more lift on it :brows:

Make sure to use a gfci outlet (or better, breaker) for that outside one, all bathrooms, basements, kitchens, garages, exposed porches etc are to be powered by gfci breakers while all bedrooms are required to be powered by afci (arc fault circuit interrupting) breakers. The afci requirement is fairly new, within the last 10 years.

Yikes! Well at least you got a spare I guess... still, hope for the best

Damn that sucks man, get well soon

Looks like you're missing the Comanche badges from the fenders. Also, I could swear I have seen that one posted on here before. Did you pick it up from a dealer who had placed an entirely unreasonable price tag on it? I think it may have been wrecked but whoever put it back together did a pretty nice job.

:fs1: I DO NOT NEED ANOTHER EXPENSIVE HOBBY! I refuse to look at these ever again or I will end up with one. Exactly what I was gonna say :D

holy hell, what junkyard are you going to?! I get ripped for 100-130 for a front axle around here, and I'm only 45 minutes west!

... you hear the phrase "dakota tail light" and automatically :roll: :shake: :doh:

Yeah, I don't like splicing factory wiring but only under certain circumstances. Whenever I do, instead of chopping up the actual body/engine harness, I go to the junkyard and get the harness that normally plugs into whatever I'm connecting to, and basically build a custom cable that plugs in just like an OEM one would. I have serious wiring OCD... Interesting that the clutch safety switch is built into the master cylinder - assuming it's the clutch master, not the brake master?

Pretty decent. The set of WJ balljoints I got for my eventual WJ knuckle swap cost me ~90 shipped... they sell them as "super 30" balljoints. Make sure you aren't getting those for an XJ unless you're doing the WJ swap.

Crap I am too late... if you ever have to do this again, I'm reasonably certain the Dana Spicer kits I got from alljeep.com came with the threaded piece. I know the no-name (but good according to some of the NAXJA guys who thrash the crap out of their stuff) balljoints sold by Crown are good, I think they're TRWs. I've put a couple thousand street miles on mine with my MJ and they are doing great, far better than the worn out junk I took out of there.

How much sticks out of the block? If you got lucky and it broke like a quarter inch up from the block, try threading another nut onto it, weld it down, and turn it out. The weld heat may even break the rust loose and make it come out easier.

Didn't really notice anything different but I think I saw the site go down for the upgrade... hit F5 at one point a couple days ago and got "we are sorry this site is currently not available". Is there any way you can figure out what images are to blame for the bandwidth overage? Usually there is a way you can view the referrer URL in the web server logs, find out what images are being used and then move them.

Ahhhh that makes sense. Never knew about the steering column difference. The BCM doesn't exist on XJs, you're probably talking about the ACM (airbag control module) which was initially under the driver's seat but was moved to under the console for corrosion reasons in a TSB/recall. The extra wiring for the TCU and stuff can just be ignored when going from auto to manual - going the other way, I fully agree it'd be a half @$$ job. The extra connectors under the hood likewise, except you'd take the old cable from the NSS and chop it up, then splice in some wires for the clutch safety switch and reverse switch. That only counts as a quarter @$$ job in my book :rotf: I agree that to do a full OEM lookalike install on a 5speed swap you'd have to pull all sorts of stuff up and swap it.

Wait, the AIR BAG system is different depending on what transmission is installed? That confuses me a bit. What's different about the steering column / wiring? Definite good point on the flywheel, I had forgotten that part.

Correct. Basically you just wire the clutch safety switch up to the terminals that are connected in P/N on an NSS, and the reverse light switch up to the terminals that are connected together in R on an NSS. Done! Finding a manual ECU for a 97 might be difficult, might not be.

Yep. Well really it depends on how picky you are about the CEL coming on... if you don't like it you will have to use an MT ECU for it instead of the AT one. You'll also need to do a little wire splicing for the clutch safety switch and reverse light switch on the trans instead of the NSS on the slushbox. It will run and drive fine with the CEL on from either a disconnected transmission (but the TCU present) or both the trans and TCU disconnected, but may fail your inspection and you won't know when the ECU actually has something to complain about.