kastein

yeah my MJ has this option, you would not believe the number of people who flag me down and tell me I left my lights on because they don't think a truck that old would have that option :brows: I like it, lets me see where I'm going after I get out of the truck.

same, another good way is that an 8.25 has a flat lower lip on the housing casting, so the casting sticks out from behind the cover at about 5 and 7 oclock. Yes, this is true, but the spring perches were placed right about where MJs ones are located. I'm going to head back there one of these days, possibly even before work, to grab a few more items that I missed and I'll be sure to take my camera with me. spring-under or spring-over perches? if it's spring under it may have come from the MJ as a stock app or it could be from some other dodgemobile (I think a few dodge SUVs use the 8.25 in a SUA config, not sure) while if it is spring-over, it was either from an XJ or was from the MJ but installed aftermarket. EDIT: http://www.allthingsjeep.com/atj11127.html best junkyarding tshirt ever

I can get a whole XJ with a running engine, rotted out, for 2-300 around here, with some patience. With no patience, 4-500. I would not do a rebuild right now... pick one up, part it out, sell each axle for 100 bucks, seats for 25, etc and you are already ahead. Pull all the senders, harnesses, ECU etc that you can use on yours and keep them. Then sell the carcass to the scrapper for another 1-200 and you basically have a free motor, tranny, and transfer case.

huh, how did I never realize that? Which one is longer, out of curiosity? I have a spare set of shafts I am giving to a friend on a wheeling trip tomorrow and I never marked em left vs right.

The switch that goes on the proportioning valve block? Stomp on the pedal as hard as you can and it should unstick. Make sure you follow the special MJ brake bleeding procedure or your brakes will slowly get worse and worse till they're nearly as bad as they were before. EDIT: nevermind you got rid of the backup circuit... no special procedure needed.

I'd junkyard em, no way would I pay that kind of cash for an axleshaft. I can get d35 shafts all day for 15 bucks or so here. You could put a whole new axle in, including welding new brackets on, for 150 or so, and it would be an upgrade because the 35 is unfortunately about the worst axle they ever put in the XJ/MJ series. Yours is an 89/older, so I believe your d35 is a non c clip one, remember that when junkyarding shafts or planning to replace it.

not dead yet... just restin'! feel like going for a walk? hang in there! (there is a terrible pun to be made here, but I'm not even going to say it)

With a pressed steel pan I'll do it, but not a cast aluminum one. The cast aluminum pans are pretty brittle and I don't want to risk a crack, on the other hand I've got a few friends whose jeeps are still running fine with 1-2" deep dents in the pans and not leaking any more than your average 4.0. Heck they leak less than my MJ!

clean the manifold gasket sealing area and seal it with duct tape or a couple layers of masking tape after spraying some wd-40 into each port. Hose the spark plug recesses out with compressed air, then brakleen, then remove the spark plugs and shoot a little wd-40 or oil into each plug hole as well, then turn the motor over a couple times with a breaker bar. Stick the plugs back in, then duct tape off any vacuum line ports and stick it in storage. If the dizzy is pulled, shoot a little WD-40 in there too and seal that off with duct tape too. The more you coat with WD-40 the less it will rust on important surfaces. I've got a cheap crappy T-shaped HF stand I'm using to store a motor right now, it's not the best but it seemed fairly stable. Cost me 50-60 bucks.

I would put the XJ outside and immediately get full insurance on it, and put the MJ inside! You can replace an XJ with money... Also if you need to park vehicles in the future there is a large abandoned parking lot within eyeshot of my apartment, none of the trees are tall enough to fall anywhere near where I park my jeeps and no one bugs em sitting there. I'm pretty sure this storm is going to be tame compared to what's forecast, but if it isn't, guess I'll be driving the jeeps around hauling friends / people I see stranded.

:banana::banana: that looks really useful to have on hand if your darn jeep won't run and you're stranded! Looking forward to its release, I have a G1 running cyanogenmod and 1.6 firmware. I'll have to look into craigslistnotifica...

walk away and tell him where he can put it. 300 for a front axle is ridiculous especially after playing bait and switch. Especially after not letting you pull the cover to inspect. I can get dana 30s for 100-130 all day long around here... mostly with 3.55s and some 3.07s but once in a long while a 4.10 shows up. Play the waiting game, don't go with the sleazy seller's plan.

Looks like the A-pillar is fine, roof is fine, back of cab is fine, etc... ... unless the frame rails are really badly tweaked up past the motor mounts I would rebuild it, you can get the inner fender walls off any XJ at the junkyard with a sawzall and weld them onto yours. The rest is bolt on.

Wow, the sides on that bed aren't bad... ... how much would you want for it if I decided to drive out there and pick it up? The sides on my bed are rotted and beat but the floor and inside walls are fine. Looks like a nifty project.

Try "hotwiring" the pump from the battery positive directly to one of the resistor terminals (forget which.) If you can hear the pump running and it still has lousy fuel pressure at the rail, the pump is probably the problem... also check voltage at the connector nearest the pump (while it's plugged in if possible, i.e. under load) then check pressure at the filter if you can find a way to do so, or replace the filter.

what's damaged on the driver side? If it's all bolt on sheet metal I would fix it up and keep driving it! just not quite so fast... :no: been there before but fortunately did not end up on my side, and mostly learned my lesson. Glad you and your passenger are safe. EDIT: looks like your inner fender walls may be boogered up pretty bad, could still repair it if you feel like junkyarding with a sawzall and doing some welding!

OBD-I flash code to meaning decoder? craigslist auto search util that searches all nearby CLs for all common misspellings of Comanche :brows: and alerts you when a new one pops up

what does that even mean? :huh???: sorry... fear and loathing in las vegas quote. I had to :nuts:

I know multiple people who have blown up their 35 with stock to 31 inch tires. Heck a friend of mine blew up his 35 on stock tires... halfway from his apartment to 7-11, in his daily driver. If you are going to spend the money on a regear do not do it on a d35. You'll be dropping 250 dollars or more on just gears, bearings, and carrier, plus more for labor if you can't do gear setup yourself (which not many people can... at least not right) and adding another 100 for insurance by buying a better axle to regear is well worth it. Hell, if you switch to a 29 spline 8.25, you will save some of that money back because you won't have to buy a new carrier since the carrier break on the 8.25 is well out of the range anyone with a jeep will use.

don't stop... this is BAT COUNTRY

holy moly I don't think I've ever seen that many MJs in one place before. Congrats!

You got off pretty easy, I have heard of them charging over 120 each in some cases :ack: Keyless is really no big deal, it's the sentry key immobilizer you should keep your eye out for!

Up in Mass I never had problems with getting my 96 inspected... haven't had to deal with that with the other vehicles yet. Sadly the safety inspections are an absolute joke, I wish they had actually done a full inspection, maybe they would have caught the rusty brake line I missed in my pre and post purchase inspections that burst and put me into a guardrail a few months later, causing me to buy a thousand dollars worth of tools, parts, and paint! :fs1: They did figure out I had to fix my reverse lights though :roll: fortunately they thought my jeep was cool enough (and I knew exactly what was wrong with it and said I'd get the part within a week) that they just told me to fix it and gave me a sticker.

Pop the steering column shell off like you did, tilt the wheel all the way down if it's got a tilt wheel, then ease it out top edge first. It requires a little flexing but not much. Getting the cluster itself out is also a bit annoying, but really not too bad. It mostly catches on the edge of the vinyl dash covering and frustrates me, I use a putty knife to lever/slide it by that if it catches.

If he will not let you pull the cover walk away and tell him to sell it to someone else, or offer to buy him a tube of RTV so he can put it back on after. NEVER buy an axle without pulling the cover and checking things out. I would be out over 500 dollars and would own at least 3 worthless axles right now if I had not insisted on pulling the cover. One axle I found for sale on CL with 4.10s and a locker, had nearly 1/8" of backlash somehow, shims were hillbilly jammed between the bearing cups and the housing instead of between the bearing cones and carrier, amazing amount of side play in the carrier, no carrier preload at all, etc. Gears were worn in a strange way. Would have been out $250 right there. The other two were less money but still worthless. A d35 I got (for free from a local member) turned out to be worthless as an axle, about ten teeth of the ring gear were so badly rusted it couldn't even turn past the pinion, but I didn't care because I only wanted it for the yoke, shafts, and carrier as spares. When I turned it a pinion rotation or two it seemed fine because it wasn't on the rusted portion, had I paid money for it I would have been pretty displeased when I got home!