kastein

... there are more photoshopped cab options for your truck than there are real ones.

No problem. I try to avoid shotgunning it but I have a decent enough collection of parts now that it doesn't cost much to try... IMO, the TPS unification is one of the few things Chrysler really got RIGHT. Simplified so much to use the same unit for both transmissions and on some years, even most engines! The 8.25 rearend and OBD II count too I guess but I'm probably in the minority on that latter one.

hmmm those driveshaft angles look a little bad... anyone make SYE kits for this yet?

X2, I see a lot of this. It can be real tough to draw business to a hole in the wall internet site just like a hole in the wall brick&mortar store. I watched a friend's virtual private server hosting business fail after he poured thousands of dollars into it... why? he had no idea of how to advertise or get customers, neither did I, neither did any of his other tech friends, it's pretty tough to do sometimes. I would use ebay as a storefront. Another option would be yahoo shopping / yahoo stores if you want to do your own thing, they make it so you can have your own look&feel etc and they handle the ecommerce part but don't expect anywhere near the traffic as ebay will get you unless you can do SEO pretty well. Some of my favorite mil surplus parts stores are yahoo stores and I found them via searching for part numbers and part descriptions on google.

crap completely missed this :( any time you are considering getting another event going, shoot me a PM or text me, 774 922 2854. A few days or a week or two ahead of time is best because I tend to get booked up pretty fast these days.

This is tame compared to what would happen at NAXJA, Pirate, or any of the other boards I frequent, actually. I've seen some pretty rough criticism there. I probably would have done the same as your son did, but remember, it's the internet.

Side bar: Its been federal law for years, that you cannot be required to go to your dealer for regular maintenance. They cannot void your warranty if they don't do the maintenance. They tried, but failed, your new car warranty cannot be voided wherever the maintenance is done, including by you in your driveway. But......keep records. And I have dealt with hundreds of dealers in my day to day at work, I haven't found one worth a crap. And now most are using quick lube bs in their dealership. A tech is not changing the oil, a lube tech idiot just the same as jippy lube, or midas, is changing the oil in dealerships now as well. Find a reputable independent shop is my advice, look around in the shop, see what it looks like, and who's back there. Interesting, never seen that around here but then again I haven't been in a dealership except to order parts and BS with the parts counter guy in years.

88pioneer, any relation to BillDunn83 on NAXJA?

Did they ever actually re-tar the scrapes in the road? At least around here, they sure as hell won't get around to patching them until they have a hole the size of a VW up the road to handle and even then it's a crapshoot. They do fix guardrails that get wiped out in a timely fashion however. If you can see the dent from more than about 10-20 feet away and it gets reported, they're done in a month or two. I assume they charge people for them but don't know. Fortunately when I blew a brake line and slid my 96 XJ into a guardrail, it won, my header panel and fender lost. You could barely tell a few days later after the paint flakes had been washed off by the rain. No, I didn't report it... but then again I slid a few dozen feet on a wet road, hopped an asphalt curb at such low speed that it didn't even scuff my sidewall, and hit the guardrail at 10-15mph, I didn't take my jeep for a roll through some guy's front yard.

Probably not him, I convinced him to buy the MJ initially (as he needed a cheap car and I told him I could fix darn near anything that went wrong with it) and he's since moved on to an Audi. I daily drive the MJ and it still has the same rusted, bent, tattered, flapping bumper that it came with :eek: will have a new one soon! Definitely will get ahold of you if I end up down there anytime in the future, I usually end up at Rausch Creek, Phillipsburg, Stockton, etc at least once every month or two.

There was a time when I was young and naive (wait, I still am!) and I would get a little upset anytime someone put down my home state. That was before I ever really ventured away from the 300-acre farm I live on. I've traveled to NYC and the surrounding NJ suburbs enough times where I can now honestly say "NJ sucks." Perhaps I should say that Northeast NJ around NYC sucks. There are some really lousy towns up there that really don't have anything to bring to the table - Newark, Edison, Jersey City, Secaucus...I'd throw Hoboken on that list if they didn't have the St. Patty's day parade every year. I went to school in South Jersey (Glassboro to be exact) and I'm not sure what is in the water down there, but I usually felt like I was living amongst a bunch of inbred rednecks (no offense to the inbred rednecks on these forums!). I felt as though a lot of the Southern NJ folks thought they were in the deep south or something. I also discovered through college friends that Northwest NJ is a really cool place too. I couldn't believe how nice some of the towns were and how nice the scenery is up there. That was about the time I segregated my NJ hate to NE NJ only :D yeah one of my friends in college (actually the guy I bought my MJ off of) grew up in Stockton, he gets pretty annoyed when people say NJ sucks. Been to his place a couple times to cause trouble, pick up jeep parts, fix vehicles etc and it really is an awesome area, hard to believe it's the same state as the armpit known as NE NJ. nothing good ever goes into it either, so it balances out :rotf: you'll probably miss me by a good few hundred miles, but if you are on your way through Massachusetts at any point drop by for a couple brews.

I bet you could do pretty good with an industrial size roll of pallet wrap / "bigass saran-wrap" and some hoops. It might look like your Jeep got attacked by a spider though. I get 16-18 on 225s, 4.0L/AW4/3.55s in the axles doing up to 80-85mph on the highway combined with city driving, all with a heavy hammer foot. I get 23mpg on the highway if I drive like a granny 55-65mph... with 1400lbs of stuff in the back. If you gear it right, replace your air filter, replace your upstream O2 sensor, eliminate cracks and leaks in the exhaust upstream of the O2 sensor, and set your tire pressure you can get some real good gas mileage. The best part? The engine and trans are (as far as I know) original equipment, never had a major overhaul, and have 227kmi on them. EDIT: replace your thermostat too as noted by the last guy, 195 degree only, the 4.0 runs great when it's at 180-210 degrees or so.

agreed... if it aint broke don't fix it :thumbsup: can't get any easier than that. If you pull it all out your gas mileage will go down a small amount and your gf/wife/date will be unhappy about the fact that your jeep smells like a rolling explosion waiting to happen ;)

pulling the air filter housing out makes it wayyyy easier, you can reach in from the front left corner then with a few extensions and a U-joint. I like to use 1/2" drive sockets and a 1/2" ratchet because I have more control of how much torque I am applying when I am not pulling as hard on the handle. Use 14mm sockets, for the two studs in the collector flange I like to use a Dremel (fits quite nicely down in there once you have removed the air filter housing!) to cut 1/2 to 3/4 of the way through the studs, then use a few extensions and a 14mm socket from below to try and remove the nuts on the studs. They snap in half every time, way better than rounding the stupid rusty things off and then trying to cut them all the way in half with those tiny cutting wheels. They are some metric size, I want to say 8mm but not sure of thread pitch, and if you can't find nuts that fit locally you can knock the studs out, tack weld in a couple 1.5" or 2" (I forget) 5/16 bolts, and use 5/16 hardware.

x2... used to have a similar problem on my 91 when I hadn't replaced the fuel tank and sender yet. When I bought it it worked great, went bangin' down a dirt road I drive for fun once in a while and noticed it was reading 1/2 low when I got to the other end. A few days later I drove the same road again and it was back to normal! Check for corrosion on the pin for the black wire in the 3 pin connector by the fuel pump, also clean up and resecure the ground connection in the rear left tail-light. It grounds the fuel pump and also level sender and tail lights. Gotta love automotive electronics :hmm: :nuts:

what engine, 4.0L? You can actually use a RENIX 4.0L AT TPS anywhere you would use a RENIX 4.0L MT TPS :thumbsup: the only difference in an MT one is that it has a few wires less, just put the AT one in and tape off or ignore the extra wiring harness connector and you are golden, congrats you just saved 50+ dollars. The AT unit is actually two separate TPS units stuck together, one of them reads in one direction and tells the ECU what to do and the other reads in the other direction and tells the TCU (tranny computer) what to do. For an MT you just ignore the connector that would go to the wiring harness where the TCU is looking for it. In 1991 they did away with the duplex TPS by changing the ECU and TCU so they both understand the signal going the same direction.

x2, you turn the end of the strap 45 degrees and the pins hanging out each side will slide out of the cutout in the frame. When I replace an MJ tank I generally: * drop the driveshaft (chock wheels first) - it comes out much easier with this out of the way, and goes in MUCH easier. Disconnect the fill hose, vent hose, electrical cable, fuel lines, etc. * cut the straps. You can buy em brand new on rockauto. You can't buy the bolts though... at least not OEM ones, you can use concrete J-bolts and other stuff but nothing quite the same. I'm picky that way. * use a dremel to cut opposite faces of the nuts on the J-bolts till it's about even with the peaks of the threads. Stick a flat blade screwdriver in one cut and twist till the nut breaks, then unscrew the nut. Use a wire wheel or die to clean the rust and gunk off the bolt, buy new stainless steel nuts and washers (believe they are M10x1.5?) * drop tank... if it didn't already fall out with the straps cut! Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly except you curse at different points :rotf:

I have hauled 1400+ lbs of junk with mine and no flex, even though it's very rusty! you got something else going on there probably :( Can't wait to see this, I have an AX4 sitting here you could have but no AX15. If you can't find an AX15 in 2wd trim I'd probably just stick one in with a transfer case, throw it in 2hi and forget all about the levers and linkages :cheers: then you even have theft deterrent, can shift the transfer case into neutral and no one will even realize it has one, it just "won't go into gear for some reason!"

it's the metal bracket / frame / bulkhead thing that the pump and sender attach to that are not compatible cross-MJ/XJ lines. The wire arm that connects the float to the sender itself may also be different but I'm not sure.

option 2 or 3 for sure! 2.slow only if you need it rolling ASAP and can get one for free IMO.

facebook search can't find you for some reason. www.facebook.com/kastein is me.

damn... I know guys out here who would kill for that bedliner deziped! I would be among them but I already managed to get one for 50 bucks at the junkyard one lucky morning :yes: :yes: :yes: :banana: location, location, location :(

already been said... small claims court, BBB, news stations. Oil pan is NOT a wear item and never has been, their idiots are cranking that plug in as tight as it'll go instead of torquing it or (non idiots only) setting it properly with a hand wrench. I have 3 different Jeeps and an M54A2 (with two oil drain plugs, dual sump oil pan...) with no boogered up threads, and a total of over 600 thousand miles on them. Make em look stupid/greedy/disreputable in front of the public and they will change their tune FAST.

taught me a bit of tech and made me keep my eye out for MJs on the road!

True. Curbs also have a nasty way of breaking rims, blowing beads off, and in general wrecking tires/wheels in a hurry... I totally believe that part of the story.