kastein

Simple install, too, drop the driveshaft, pry out the old seal, press in the new one, lube the lip of the seal and put the driveshaft back in place and you're done.

Junkyard. Be very careful, try a few times and you'll get one out in decent shape. As for getting the caulking out, use a bit of plastic stock cut to the right size, or see if you can get a plastic prybar/poking stick thingy from an auto glass installer, the last guy who replaced a window for me gave me a couple because I helped him install the glass, would have been a real pain with only two hands. You don't need to get it all out, just most of it, since it's soft rubber you should be able to just jam the antenna assembly back in and it'll either scrape the rest out or compress it enough.

Hope you used a bit of rubber line somewhere in that clutch line you installed - else the vibration and engine mounts flexing will slowly stress crack it somewhere. Other than that, looks great!

Might be able to show up for this, not sure

Excellent... that was the persuasion I needed :cheers: It shall join the two d30 carriers I have sitting on my desk as decoration.

I just learned that actually... opened up the d35 someone gave me for spare parts and went "huh... that isn't a normal carrier!" Now I'm tempted to keep my d35 and stick the trak-loc in it instead of upgrading to the 8.25 that I have waiting :(

Filled it with spare parts and camping gear for NAXJA NACFest... It's ridin' a little low :rotf:

Cool! I've got about six of their magnets hanging around, mostly restored 60s caddies and such though. I hope I get an MJ one next 8)

Wow. Just wow. That guy needs to get a clue... I paid 800 for the rust bucket I drive, and that was 200 more than the previous owner paid for it. He might get me to buy that hunk of crap if he cut a zero off the end of the price... especially now that he's shredded the bed.

His post did not stipulate that the '89 has an automatic transmission. Also, given the frequency of the flex plate cracking, I would not do a tranny swap without replacing the flex plate. I don't want to pull a tranny and transfer case that I just installed three months ago. Good point there. Looking at RockAuto, they're only 50-60 dollars, not as bad as I was expecting.

Might be wrong, but I'm pretty sure he can use his old flexplate unless he's got a 2.5L - was not aware the AW4 came behind the 2.5L on that many years, I thought the ChryCo tranny was used for most of them. You can use that trans and transfer case as a pair, as noted it'll be 23 spline. You can use up to a 97 electrics-wise but aim for 95 and down since the slip yoke design is superior. You may have to splice a connector onto the wiring harness for it, I am not sure if they used the same plug for the solenoid control harness on the RENIX and OBD-I AW-4s. If you are converting from a manual to an automatic, as noted by Eagle you will need a year-appropriate flex plate since your rig is RENIX and will expect a RENIX flexplate. If you already have an automatic and are just replacing it, simply use your existing flexplate. If your torque converter is acting up, use the one from the donor vehicle, else, I would use whichever one has lower miles and/or better looking fluid in it.

electric, been trying to switch to regular because the battery is dying on my electric but I am pretty sure I'm allergic to something in most shaving creams, I look like someone pointed a shotgun at me for about week every time :headpop:

What's wrong with the motor, anyways? Puke a rod out the side of the block, or something else? If it'd been me... I probably would have rented a uhaul and a dolly and just towed the darn thing the rest of the way, then picked up a motor myself and put it in. But I've got a few screws loose concerning MJs, and for that matter, most jeeps :nuts:

:agree: I'm 24 and I use punctuation and proper spelling/grammar even when posting from my phone. You aren't posting from your phone by texting, you're using a web browser... Beside all that nitpicking, I'd pick up the brake booster, master cylinder, pedal assembly, and maybe the proportioning valve if you can. And the front axle, if it's not bent from the crash. EDIT: oh, grab the rear view mirrors if they're in good shape. 97 and up XJ mirrors will bolt onto any 96 and down XJ or MJ, and are a LOT bigger, you won't believe how much more you can see with them.

I'm an electrical nerd type, so this kind of stuff always interests me. I'm not sure the electronic VSS will fit into the mounting/opening on an np207, that's about the only hang-up I can think of. Also the speedo gear for one may not fit into the VSS.

Well, glad someone picked it up! One of the NAXJA guys showed up (fortunately it was only about a half hour drive for him) after you had already taken it I guess :dunno: I seem to recall suggesting bringing lots of spare parts.. don't think I mentioned an engine though :( I'm actually doing a ~750 mile round trip to NACFest at Rausch Creek this weekend in mine, been planning on bringing a spare engine/tranny/transfer case/everything else since I don't trust my current engine at all.

I crossposted it on NAXJA in the hopes that there would be someone closer (since there are way more people on that board) but so far no one has done anything AFAIK. If I was within a few hours' drive of it I'd head on out just to see if it was still there :dunno:

Excellent. Well, guess it's out of your hands now... the wheels of justice turn slowly if at all :dunno: You wouldn't happen to drive a black (or darkish) MJ with a plow frame on the front, would you? If so I think I spotted you driving south on US-1 in Foxboro just south of the stadium a few weeks ago. If you saw a white mostly-stock SWB MJ going the other way, that was me :wavey:

Yep - double checked immediately. I'm actually insured for a COM ELIM which I guess is how they say Comanche Eliminator. I think their computer just lists every bell whistle and extra option for any pickup ever made, instead of only the ones available for that vehicle. She also asked me if I had airbags or not (I will, as soon as I swap in the '96/96 XJ steering column I have. I paid 50 bucks for it and will save over four times that per year with the airbag deduction)

Agreed, especially with JeepcoMJ. Hope you really do have the right to be back there - if it's private property, and you have permission from the owner to be there, I don't think there is much that can be done to shut the place down. However, the owner needs to report that vehicle, or you do, or someone does. Burnt out vehicles abandoned = crime.

I've "only" got 3 right now, the white 96 XJ (lifted/big tires/etc) the white 91 MJ (dinged, dented, rusted, all-stock and slowly being repaired/restored while DDing), and now the red 98 "some assembly required" XJ (eventual replacement for the 96 when it breaks in half.) Would take a pic but my camera got stolen, or lost in my move, and they're never in the same place because I only have one parking space at my apartment... so the 98 sits in my parking space, the MJ gets parked across the street in a vacant strip mall's lot, and I move the 96 a few blocks every few days in an upscale neighborhood on the other side of town to avoid suspicion :rotf:

My insurance company asked me if it was a 4 door when I put insurance on mine :rotf: Insurance rep: "2 or 4 door?" Me: "2 door... I wish they made a 4 door Comanche!" Insurance rep: "well according to my computer they did, so you probably just haven't seen one yet" Apparently my insurance company posts on JU :roll: I'd also like one of these... guess I'll have to put it on the list of things to build when I'm old and rich.

I dislike getting cable driven speedos connected and disconnected, I lost blood doing a stupid cluster swap last time I tried :dunce: Sure you can. If it's one of the years where the cable pickup is the same dimensions as an electronic pickup from a 91-92 MJ or 91-95 XJ (maybe even later) just pull the electronic pickup, wire it to power and ground as needed, put your speedo gear on it, run a wire to the gauge cluster and swap in a 91-96 MJ/XJ speedo/odo gauge. Might have to adjust some wiring in the cluster to get it to mount up, and if you have cruise control you'll either lose its functionality or have to do some more adaptation.

Answered in your other thread... I agree with these guys 7mm is it. I had to tap mine in with the ratchet as they were full of gunk. If they're really stuck and you are replacing the calipers and slides anyways, push the rubber dust boot back a bit and clamp a pair of vice grips on as tight as it'll go, that worked for me on one of the bolts.

I want to say it's a 7mm metric allen key but I'm honestly not sure. I just spent like 15 bucks on the full set of metric allen bits at Home Depot and went from small->large till I found one that fit right.