87mjdriver

I am going from buckets to a Dakota bench seat, I am in need of the MJ center seat belt set-up. I would prefer the maroon color, but could go with black. I need both ends. I am also looking for a piece that diverts the air from the center of the dash towards your feet, its located right below the ash tray. I don't have it cause of the full size center console I have for a possible trade a good condition maroon full length center console, it is missing the rear metal support bracket, but I never had it, didn't really cause any issues not using it. I will get pictures up in the next day or so Allen

You can. It's heat bonded together. so how do you seperate them, just a heat gun? then how do you put them back together?

can you seperate the lense from the housing?

great, I get all my debts paid off and now finally someone starts to make what i've been wanting for the last 5 years. can you give me a month or 2 to get some money stashed away on the side?

I'm in the same boat as you, ive been looking for a cheap LA set up, I'm at 8 inches with drop brackets, ive looked a lot at all the different LA setups, i really wanted a true four link non radius arm, but only found a few, and i found things i didnt like in those kits, so back to radius arms, i think I'm just going to go with claytons

i did this this fall, i went with the late model set up i think its much cleaner looking. i just went to junk yard to get the parts. the heater hoses run right along the valve cover they are one piece formed, and you have to get the water pump extension pipe, it has a curved neck, if i remember right you have to take the pump off to put it on

Hornbrod, I feel the same way. However I am getting tired of the crap getting flung up the side of the truck. So I have to compromise I need flares the Napier ones look the best.

This what I'm taking about

I really want to put on some extended coverage flares but I find myself being maybe overly picky I need a little help choosing. I've seen a lot of shattered bushwackers so I don't want to go that route and I think those are to big, I like the Napier precision but here is my picky side. The pictures I see of them are not the greatest it looks like they are put on crooked or maybe the fender was cut to high because we're the flare ends at the body line seems high. it doesn't finish we'll. I'm talking about the bottom were it wraps under the sheet metal. So does anyone have some better pictures on an MJ. Preferably a long bed The other option is rusty's cutout. Say what you will but they look easy to put on and follow the body contours really well. I can buy just one if I need it. I hope someone can help

For what it's worth I bought a set of them like 10 years ago, and they still work fine. You just got to grease them once in a while

its not to hard to pull the dash out on the Cherokees, there are right ups on the net. basically unscrew the defrost vent cover pull the 4 bolts under that take out the lower dash board/knee panel drop the steering wheel, take out the 2 steel rods that help support the steering column. then out to the sides, under the dash on the kick panel/ door frame loosen the larger bolts and the dash will hinge out and off of those. theres gonna be little screws here and there but thats about the sum of it. as far as the fuse box, i've done it. combo of cut and splice and removing wires to swap over to the new fuse box. scope out auto part store for weather pack tools, little yellow handles with a long skinny blade on them, you use that to unlock the fuse sockets so they slide out the back of the fuse box

Ive done the heater core flush on the mj, but I can't do it right now since it hasn't been above 32* in over 2 months. the garden hoses are put away and the spigots are capped and sealed off. I'm not sure if the zj has a control valve

Ok, so I did my thermostat replacement yesterday and found that when I replaced the thermo stat last year I put it in backwards, so stupid. Anyway I think that might have been causing the pressure problem, as of now I only have a single screw type hose clamp holding it and it seems fine. New problem. Engine now gets up to operating temp, but the defrost blows Luke warm air at best. I'm thinking maybe a air bubble close to the heater core or maybe a blockage. Side not heater core is only 2 years.

Damn you guys a good and fast. Thanks I'm gonna rough up the surface and find some plastic safe epoxy. And do double clamps @ 180 from each other And I can't remember where I bought the hose but I'm betting autozone

I thought about 93 civic seats, but what looks to be typical with the little ricer cars is the width of the mounting points on the car seats, doesn't really work with the Comanche and its tranny tunnel. more common is S10 or Ranger seats oh and Dakotas, more popular than the others

I replaced my radiator in my ZJ last year with a auto zone one, it has plastic tanks, the outlet upper side does not have the little bump to help secure the hose its just smooth plastic, so every once in a while it blows off driving down the road. I replace the stock spring clamp with the screw type hose clamp and tighten with my impact driver, careful not to go to tight and crack the plastic. well that lasted about 6 months I just checked it tonight and found it close to popping off. SO Is there a trick to keeping it on? maybe a light glue or something AND is my system over pressurized? I know it a Zj but most of you guys have one of those too, or are just handy all around when it comes to general wrench turning

I like it too, it makes sense to me to have a built bumper but it includes a stock looking spot for the license plate. Just add a light for the plate and it's clean and legal.

Any talented welders around?

Personally I would stay with standard hydro shocks, gas charged shocks on these horrible MN roads is annoying.

Thanks guys, this site comes through again! I like that abs plastic insert thing, Yxmj, I just did the back flush to the heater core and t stat housing, it started blowing hot, I'm kinda thinking the gauge or maybe the sensor is going bad cause it still reads low. I'm still gonna try the blackened cardboard on the inside of the grill when the temps drop below 0.

It's got a new radiator all new hoses and a 1 year old 195* t stat unless the gauge or temp sensor isn't reading right it never gets to temp, but that's the mj, The zj runs fine and stays at temp, during 30* and up temps, but when air temps drop in the teens it doesn't get up to temp.

Ok so I moved to duluth, MN last year. One problem that I noticed on both my mj and zj is the coolant temp hardly gets to operating temp, which in turn doesn't let the hot water circulate which produces Luke warm air through the vents. I've seen some guys just zip tie card board to their grills for the winter but that look horrible. Does anyone have any ideas for fabbing up a cover that looks good and I don't have modify the grill to much, I don't want to just screw a sheet of canvas to the grill

I'll wait 5 years when I can buy a used one for 5 k since they don't hold there value anymore.

Ok so just get the 2 heater hoses for a 97+ xj and no valve, I already have the radiator hoses. I'm trying go for a cleaner/neater look I the engine compartment, I think I might do the 97+ washer fluid bottle upgrade too Paradisemj: can I retain the 87 thermo housing or do I need to get a newer one? By the way thanks for the replies guys

alright I am doing a closed to open swap, I have the radiator but i don't know what hoses i need to get and whether or not to include a heater control valve, I heard the late model xj's did away with the valve completely (true?) last time i replaced the heater hose on my renix I remember on of the hoses was an odd ball had a 3/4 I.D. on one end and a 1/2? on the other end. can anyone help with part numbers or maybe a picture