Garvin

I was talking about the inlet side (between the pump and gas tank) for the plastic ones. I would not use the carb one on the outlet side (pump to injectors) as that is where the pressure is and those little plastic ones with the paper inserts will blow apart. I still prefer to run one on both sides of the filter to make sure if anything gets through the pump, the injectors and engine will stay fine. Those plastic housings should stay in one piece if put only on the lower pressure side of the pump so there shouldn't be an issue with fire as the fuel system is a contained system.

I linked to the E2000 pump above. The pump is under $100 so it isn't all that expensive to just buy new. You might run into issues if you keep your stock pump in place. Just remove the pump and put a section of fuel line in its place to remove that restriction. Also, you do not need a high pressure fuel filter if put before the pump. There is no pressure there, just volume. I use a clear plastic carb filter so I can see how the filter is doing and it feeds my 5.7L V8 just fine (even requires a bit higher pressure than the 4.0L).

For those of you still complaining that it's illegal even though the pics were posted all over the internet, read the terms and conditions of the sites closer before just clicking accept.

No, that pump won't work. Read the first line, "Carbureted Gas or Diesel Applications." Everything besides the GM TBI setup requires a lot more than 14psi, the GPH also sounsd extremely low. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Airtex-Master-Fuel-Pump/_/N-8vcz2?itemIdentifier=386516_0_0_ That is the easiest to find pump you will need. When you're getting into the part of starting to mount things in tool boxes and rerunning fuel lines, you are better off with a new stock tank as they aren't that expensive. I mainly did my setup since I started with a carb'd vehicle and I swapped to a SBC 350.

I really wouldn't trust a tank like that but I can't stop you if you want to run it. Unless you are running a carb setup, a 2.8L pump won't work as it bolts to the side of the engine. That pump will not put out anything close in pressure to what a fuel injection setup requires.

External fuel pump and fuel cell would work, using that probably won't. You will need to have a feed and return line. The most common external pump (and the one I have on my Comanche) is the E2000 pump. You can walk into any auto parts store and they will have that in stock, just have them cross reference that number (Advance Auto had that number in their parts list and even had it in stock). For fuel cell, I'm running a Jaz 22 gallon fuel cell since it was the largest I could find with a fuel sender that fits it. You can get up to a 38 gallon (maybe larger but that's the largest I saw when I was looking) but the fuel senders won't fit in there. If you don't care about the fuel gauge then that's a mute point but I like seeing how much gas in there since I drive my Comanche on the street most of the time. If driven on the street a lot, you will also want to get the gas tank foam (it's foam blocks that prevents splashing). Stay far away from the Jaz foam though as that stuff breaks up really fast and clogs the fuel filters (ask me how I know...). You will also want to put a pre-pump filter in the line also since you won't be using the in tank strainer anymore. I just use a clear carb filter as there is no pressure on the tank side of the pump and lets me see how dirty the filter is. If you're looking for some pictures, I'm sure there are a bunch in my build thread (link is in my signature).

Unless you copyright it or protect it in some way or form, when put on the internet it becomes public property. It does suck but that's how the world works now-a-days. While it isn't the most ethical way of the way he posted it, it still isn't illegal.

That '91 one on Ebay is sweet, wish my '92 had that little rust! The rims on the craigslist one are neat, ugly but neat. He won't get $15k for that though. I had my '86 up for $8k for a little while and I couldn't sell it and mine is all custom with less miles on it due to everything getting rebuilt (and I mean everything).

If anyone decides to go the Ford 302 route, look into the fox body Mustang wiring harness. It is pretty much a stand alone unit. The same goes with the Chevy 305/350 TPI wiring setup. I grafted in like 5 wires and ran maybe another 5 and everything was wired in (mainly only had to run them because I started out with a factory carb'd '86). If you do go the '97+ swap route, get a donor from the same generation and the wiring is a sinch. Most of the wires (if not all) are the same colors.

I initially did a carb'd gen I SBC 350 mainly because they are so cheap and easy to get parts for and I started with the 2.8L Chevy engine in my '86. I later went to the TPI (Tuned Port Injection) setup on there when I went fuel injected. If I were to do it again, I'd go with a 351W with a ZF5 behind it. I hate to break it to you but doing a 305 or 350 is exactly the same. The only difference would be carb or injector size.

Okay so another question...If you only put the wrap at the front side, would you be able to redrill the center hole on a set so that it's rearwards of the center line in stead of in the factory frontwards (for lack of better terms)? Right now I have my springs flipped 180 to stretch the rear and doing just a rear wrap in this case won't benefit me really all that much short of just replacing these springs. Also, is there any price difference between the 3/2 and 3/1 and is there really any difference between them besides having one extra overload?

The weakest part of the leaf spring is at the front bushing where it turns. The fact that it has a corner causes a much high stress point but it also isn't supported by any other springs in that location due to the next one down ending a few inches shy. While military wrap springs don't get rid of that high stress point (basically impossible to since you need to put a bushing at the end somehow), it does add a second spring to that area effectively doubling the spring rate there. Thanks, just wanted to clarify it since others are looking for extra arch in the springs. On a side note, I'll be interested in probably the 3/2 later this year when I get around to restoring my '92 (this assumes my job goes how I want it to).

Probably should clarify that a little since I just re-read your first post. I'm looking for a 3/1 stock sized spring (not really interested in the 2" lift extra as you had posted). I'm in no rush so whenever you get enough to make a run, give me a yell.

If you can get enough people interested, I'd be interested in the 3/1 setup since I'm not looking for any more lift. My '86 also isn't used to carry anything real heavy (short of tools and a spare tire) so I'm more interested in the flex.

As said before, that's definitely the backup light switch. The NSS has a much longer cable and has a flat (I think it was 4) wired connector.

I'm 1 day short of 10 months older than my MJ. Or atleast the day it rolled off the production line stock as there aren't many stock parts left...

If you don't plan on beating on the Jeep then 1/8" is plenty. If you do plan on beating on it then I'd go up to 3/16".

If you plan on putting a U on there then you can cut that pinch seem off. Make sure you cut all the rusted area out, clean up the frame real well and seal it then weld the new piece over top with stitch welds around the perimeter and rosette welds along the sides.

Guess I'm probably the one with the most criticism here and all that is far from truth for me, except the Jeep finished part since Jeeps are never done...It's not so much trying to fight e-peens, I just want to see the correct info getting out there. I've seen way too much bad info (or mainly incomplete in this case and worded bad) that I don't like seeing people swear by it when it's dangerous. If you doubt me, look at my sig to see the specs. I currently daily drive my Comanche to and from work where I work as a Mechanical Engineer/Mechanical Drafter and also wheel her whenever I get the chance. If I offend anyone with what I say then I'm sorry (don't see how I could have but I tend to be a bit too blunt sometimes). If no one cares so much about the little details then feel free to yell at me and I'll just go back to Pirate.

Welcome to the site. I know you can't mention every little detail but it's just the way you worded things that will make a lot of people do things the wrong way. For instance when you said at flex the axle will hit the track bar so you are moving it up. You should atleast put a few second blurb in there or reword that to say that the drag link and track bar have to be parallel to eachothers. Whether this is done on a trail rig or not, that's still important for them to be parallel as then you'll have flex steer. The flex part comes down to wording also. Even with the front and rear flexed like that, it really isn't all that impressive flex. I do agree that flex isn't the end all but it is still important to keep traction. As long as you have vehicle weight on the tire then the more the flex, the better. In the setup on my Jeep, even with ~34 3/8" long lowers, I could easily max out that heim with longer shocks. Then again, my suspension is setup for mainly down travel. The heim is also not meant to take loads in a vertically mounted fashion. To give a better explanation, look at how the heim is created. You have the most amount of material on two sides and limited amounts on the other two. If set up vertically then the forces go straight into the thinner part of the heim trying to pull the ball out opposed to if set up horizontally, the loads go straight into the body. Yes, they will work set up that way for a while but it is far from ideal. I understand this part but again it comes to the wording. You have to remember that not everyone catches every show (I'm a prime example of this, only seen that one). It only takes a few seconds to say "As mentioned on other shows, the drag link and track bar need to be parallel." I do agree with this, that setup is pretty cool. It's the nature of revolver shackles to unload, even when limited. The ideal solution here would be to just trash them. Mainly putting that out for others as I understand where you are coming from there.

There's always going to be the possibility of bump steer, no matter the setup you run (this assumes mechanical linkage and not full hydro). Bump steer is based on drag link to track bar angles and positions. The most ideal setup would be the same exact lengths as well as mounting positions on the same plane (so the bolts are right behind eachothers and you can barely see the track bar behind the drag link). I'm currently running the inverted T setup (just like what they converted that MJ to) and I have a little bump steer due to my track bar being set slightly higher than the drag link (which will be taken care of when I get a new track bar bracket).

Keep in mind that $7k back then is equivalent to like $20 something thousand now.

Please, PLEASE, do not take these guys advice, they are so full of crap and don't know anything about how suspensions work from how they explained and did everything. Guessing where stuff goes is not the way to do the vehicle correct and that flex was just a joke. I have a 3-link suspension that I built on my MJ and can easily get the rocker above the tire on a 38.5, and this is only on around a 6" lift (can do the same on a 4" if a notch the frame slightly and raise the front shocks, which I plan on doing). First of all, do NOT mount the upper link on the frame sidewards like that. That limits flex MASSIVELY. Heims only give you about 22 degrees of misalignment in that position vs the endless amount of articulation if mounted straight up and down. If it's an offroad only rig (as they said it was) use heims for the lowers also as they are stronger than the cartridge flex type joint and are cheaper. If used on road then use the cartridge type joint on the uppers and lowers as they did just on the lowers. Secondly, the panhard (track) bar doesn't just get mounted where it fits randomly. You need to match the drag link angle and length or you will get horrible bump steer and flex steer. With running the inverted-T setup steering, they really need to lower the axle end massively. If clearance is a concern then kick the track bar out towards the front or rear of the axle more, there's nothing saying that it has to be mounted in the factory position. Third...Don't guess on how you want the shocks to go. Get everything done beforehand then measure for the shocks and see the length and mounting position needed. It is not hard to remove a shock to get to the control arm bolt if you wanted to mount the lower bracket in 180 off (so the angle iron has the flat part below the bolt instead of above). This could actually net you a longer shock which would give you more overall travel. While rear flex and front flex are great by themselves, it is more important to match the flex from front to rear. They never did stuff the rear to see if the shock was long enough. And more importantly, on the shocks, they did not adjust the bump stops or add limit straps. In my 3-link, the shocks are the only thing that really limit my droop while the control arms limit my stuff when they contact the frame. I max out 12" travel Bilstein 5150's with only ~4" of up travel and ~8" of down.

For some reason, that picture looks so photoshopped on my computer. Those steering angles royally suck and the door looks slightly off but it is clean. Looks like the door was painted off the vehicle as the black lines don't line up also.

There are two in my yard, two buddy's have one and about 3 more I've seen on the streets in central NJ. At any one time, I see about 7 or 8 on Craigslist though but have never seen them in person.