Garvin

There are the two screws in the arm rest and a few where the inside door handle are. It is also easier if you remove the inside plate for the mirror. After that you just pop the panel off. The plastic clips sit in a groove on the door panels and just push into a hole in the door.

That's a weird one...The best advice I can give you there is to check down everything you had disconnected and make sure they aren't on backwards. Also make sure the door switch is plugged in (the little push button switch that is pushed in when the door is closed and out when it's open), that could cause your chime to disappear.

He is correct, those are the turbine rims. The rims in the picture are missing the hubcaps though. I'm not sure on the exact year range but they did come on my 1990 Jeep Cherokee Laredo. I believe it was the Renix era Jeeps with the alloy rim package that those came on.

lmao, you're such an @$$. Better be careful of those flares, they might bite back next time! You pretty much know the plans of the rig, you're here enough. Those flares will go when I get a bender and lots (did I mention LOTS?) of DOM tubing on it's way. Keeping as many body lines as I can. I really don't want to post carnage pics but lets just say a shock mount, broke the ear off the drive shaft, front winch bracket and rear main are the culprits. Going to pour crap in the oil to see if it stops since I really don't want to drop the oil pan, have new plans for the winch bracket that will beef it and the front end up massively, new 1350 drive shaft are on the way and the shock mount will get welded back on whenever I feel like working on her again. All in all, we can look back and laugh now! I think you did more laughing than I did when everything broke. lol And for everyone else...Abyx's puny Jeep and mine. :rotfl2:

You can try putting in oil stabilizer or Mystery Oil to see if it will pump the lifter up. If it doesn't then the lifter will need to be replaced, that involves removing the head.

If it's coming from the top of the engine then it's probably a collapsed lifter. If you take off the valve cover and tap the engine until the valve is completely closed then you should be able to wiggle one to see which one of the twelve is the culprit.

Pull out an angle grinder and start cutting. :D Mine still needs some body work since I didn't start with the best of hoods to begin with but gives me more than enough clearance and helps with cooling. Sounds like you would need to go up faster in the front if you were to do this then flatten it out to clear everything. I have mine set at around a 3.5" cowl.

Update...Been hard at work finishing everything up. Finally got to take her for a ride and all I have to say is wow...She has a lot better throttle response and power than I even expected. It is a night and day difference between the old carb setup and this new one. Got the intake all routed, what a pain that was. Let's just say it's made up from parts between three different vehicles with a little custom work in between. Ran all new wires with a universal thermostatic fan controller, she now runs ~180 degrees on an 88 degree day with the hood closed. :D Going to hopefully finish everything up tomorrow so I can drive her again. Guess it's time for a few pics. Fuel cell finished and wired (that's water on top of the fuel cell, not gas). Intake setup ran. Still need to find a new home for those vacuum canisters and still need to loom the wires. And a little poser shot. Debating if I even want to put the grill back on!

Mated the Camaro and Jeep wiring harnesses together and installed a 22 gallon fuel cell in the bed. And not much in the lines of pictures past that. Got it running but runs a bit rough, thinking a sensor is bad but I need to get everything hooked up to drive it over to the garage I used to work at to steal their scan tool. So that's where I am now. Just need to run the cooling fan wires, loom the engine bay wiring and do a few other little odds and ends and she should be ready to go back on the road. The pictures are a week or two old but will get updated pictures later this week and I'll post them up.

So it was time to have a bit of fun with the jigsaw again. Then my shinies came in, Bilstein 5150 12" travels. :D Made a set of stud-to-eye conversion brackets. I now have 4" up and 8" down (compared to the 3" up and 3.5" down before). Had a bit of overheating issues so a bit of measuring happened. Still need to do more body work on it but that's low on my to-do list. The cowl hood came a bit late and I ended up blowing a head gasket. You know what they say though. If you break it, upgrade it! In went the fuel injection! Decided on a Tuned Port Injection (TPI) setup off an '88 Camaro with the swirl port heads off a '93 TBI (Throttle Body Injection) pickup. Had to put a WJ box in to clear the power steering pump.

Figured I should update this since I have a bit of time to kill. I'm just going to post the highlights and finished shots. If you have any questions, feel free to ask. The Jeep isn't quite finished with the current phase but it's getting there (few little things and then trouble shooting any issues). Replaced the master cylinder with a Grand Marquis one, much larger bore to flow more fluid to those one ton brakes. Welded an extra reinforcement onto the track bar bracket to prevent any flex that was in the frame, stiffened up the steering a lot. Decided to flex everything out to see how she does. The front shocks had 3" up and 3.5" down. Wasn't very happy with that but she flexed out great considering the limitations (warning lots of pics). Passenger Side Up. Need to trim...Could get atleast a few more inches out of the rear once it's trimmed. 34" from the inside of the tire to the ground and ~36" from the outside to the ground. Can somewhat see the control arm hitting the frame there. The rear tires are both still planted on the ground. :mrgreen: Drivers side up. ~5.5" from the tire to the fender flare at full stuff, should be able to fit the 42's easily.

Interference issues have a lot to do with the rim backspacing also. Are you planning on running stock rims?

How good of a picture does it have to be? I still have the 2.8L one on my Jeep and can take a quick one with my cell or it'll take a few days to get a camera to get a good camera to take a snap of it. Can you do door ones as well?

That's one point I forgot. If you shave the lower truss flat with the pumpkin then you'll gain about another 1/2" and still have the full pumpkin intact. Another advantage of the Sterling is that it's cheap. A 10.25 in good condition could be had for $200 around here (I've seen many for less).

When I got my new exhaust bent up, I threw a Dynamax Race Billet muffler on it and love the way it sounds. I have 2.5's going to 3" on a V8 though. The muffler is a 3" in/out and 23.5" long.

Just to correct a few from the research I've done. The 10.25" is the older version with the 8x6.5 lug pattern and 10.50 is the newer version with the metric bolt pattern. They stopped making the 10.25 when Ford went to the metric bolt pattern. My dads truck, for instance, is a 2001 F250 Super Duty and has the D50/10.50. The J20 axles are drivers side drop (atleast the 80's ones are), my buddy just sold his 44/60 out of his '85 J20 and it was drivers side drop. The corporate 14 bolt full floater is a great option, as well as the Sterlings (10.25 and 10.50). The 14 bolt as the advantage of the 3rd pinion bearing while the Sterlings have the advantage of a cast in truss on the pumpkin. I chose to go Dana 60HP kingpin and Sterling 10.25 out of an '89 F350. As said earlier, with 37's, a semi-float would work as well but I'd do the full float just in case you decide to go larger in tires size. Not only that but the axle shafts are stronger and there is less of a load put on them. For your axle size, 37's are like the smallest you want to go on one ton axles. Even with them and smaller, you will be dragging the differential everywhere. I don't really know too much about the Landcruiser axles but look into the price of parts and brackets for them as it could get pricey very fast. Usually domestic axles (Ford and Chevy in this case since you don't want to run Dodge's) are a lot cheaper and the axle tube diameters are more standardized based on the brackets you can buy.

Yes, this Jeep is street legal, or atleast will be. Just need to add rear flares, mud flaps, finish the bed and lower her as I had planned. This Jeep is actually my daily driver. The hardest part of the whole build was keeping her street legal, would have had a field day if she wasn't going to be. I don't see why it would hinder flex at all. The bolts are 90" from each other so it can rotate back and forward and side to side. The only real difference from the way the factory setup is and this one is is that my shocks are now angled less so there isn't as much lateral forces on them to really cause them to bend. I do want to put a little reinforcement rib down the back of the top mounts just for peace of mind though. If there is something I'm not thinking about here though, please bring it to my attention.

The rear axle is still a dually axle but the front has been converted to SRW. The pics with the dually rear was just me messing around with stuff for fun. :D

So with the rear done (or atleast done for now), it was time to work on the front. The front axle is a little wider than the rear so flares were in order. These are more along the lines of temporary flares just to keep the fuzz off my @$$. These will be getting swapped out to tube flares once I get to the point of making the bumpers and rock sliders and get the lift height dialed in. I will also be adding spacers to the rear to even out the stance. Front first had to get trimmed, only one pic to give you guys the idea. The flares all cut and ready to be installed, hard to tell but all will become apparent soon enough. Can see the clearance now, plenty of space to lower the Jeep 2-3" later on. Pretty much finished. She's kinda has a hint of a CJ10 with those flares. I'll save you guys the boredom of the stupid little tid bits that took forever along the way and go straight to the poser shots. Basically where I'm at at this point. Running around getting the little things fixed and want to drive her for a while before thinking of taking her out of commission again. I've had this Jeep since May '09 and have only driven her for about a month and put 1000 miles on her, it's time to enjoy being one of the non-conformist vehicles on the road.

Thanks guys, I'm still fairly new to all this so it isn't exactly the prettiest. I also don't have too many tools and the patience to make all the little intricate bends so I've just been doing everything that an angle grinder and welder can build. But I guess it's time to update it since I actually have progress. Started off the update replacing the passenger side rear wheel cylinder, that took entirely way too much time because of the drivers side. The brakes inside the drums are amazing huge. Everything, including the springs, are freaking huge. Everything is also mounted differently so it took a little while to figure out what I was doing (never dealt with one ton axles before). Once all that was figured out, I decided to bleed the brakes to make sure everything was good, that's where everything went south on the drivers side. The bleeder decided it didn't like the hex shape on it and round itself out. After 30 minutes of fighting with that, decided just to take the wheel cylinder off since I couldn't get vice grips in there. Took a whole 10 minutes to get everything apart and back together...So that fiascal was over! So with the brakes keeping their life fluid inside the system now, it was time to tackle the next project, the rear wheel wells. If anyone wants to attempt to do this, don't do what I did. Figure out what you're doing before you start cutting! Out they come! Passenger side trimmed and resting in place. Drivers side trimmed and resting in place. Since my welder was being a pain in the @$$ and it's a bit too big for sheet metal, she got put back in with a bunch of tacks. That's where the rear is sitting right now while I get the motivation to work on it again. Need to pick up some more sheet metal to finish all that up. It looks ugly right now because I haven't cleaned it up and filled in the gaps yet. To throw out some numbers, the rear wheel wells were extended back 9 1/8" on each side.

Looks like a solid Jeep to start with, I'm jealous of those badges though! Only had the one side COMANCHE badge on my '86 when I got it, found another one but have yet to find the X's. Just to let you guys know though, the sbc V8 swap isn't as hard as everyone says it is, you just need to find someone that has done it before. It was a pain for me mainly because I was doing stuff that no one else did before. I swapped in a newer Cherokee 3 core CSF radiator and a high volume Summit water pump and my engine runs at 195 on the dot so the Cherokee radiators can cool these engines. Right now mine is carb'd but plan on going to FI after I graduate college later this year. With mine, I got the conversion bellhousing to mate the AX15 to the Chevy 350 so that up'd the price some. I probably have $1200 or so into this swap so far, including the upgraded radiator and water pump. Add about $250 if you want to include the engine rebuild after I wiped out the crank bearings. :oops: I'm not sure about the V6 but my V8 clutch is just a standard course spline chevy clutch (10 tooth) and the AX15 fits perfect. The issue would be to find a pilot bushing as I'm not sure if the V6 and V8's are the same.

Thanks for the numbers. I have a tool box all the way in back filled with tools so it's like a snow load. That means I'm running about 7" up front and 5" in back, way too high. :mad: Now to figure out how to flatten my stock springs some!

I was getting between 14-15 on my Comanche with a carb'd Chevy 350. That was running 3.55's and 33's. Hoping to get 15 on the new setup since the engine is basically brand new with 4.10's and 38.5's. I'm also running 2.5" off the mufflers into 3" with a high flow cat, straight through muffler, and only the essentials on the engine (alt, ps, water pump).

I'm mainly asking because that's the only measurement I took before cutting. I didn't think about taking it from the axle up to the flare at the time for whatever reason and it's a bit late now.

Finished the truss (sorry, not many pictures on that during the build) and rolled her under. Got the Jeep on the springs and caster set then slapped the Ground Hawgs on. Added 1.75" spacers on the front to level her out. Then chopped the lower section of the bed off, it was so beat up from the PO that it wasn't worth saving. Got my joints and brackets from Ballistic Fabrication. Had an issue with the Midwest joints so they sent me the QA1 at no additional cost. :bowdown: Track bar built and installed. Got pretty darn close to perfect on length and angle. :D Test fit the front drive shaft back in. :fs1: :fs1: :fs1: Figured I'd need to chop it down but was hoping with the stretch that I wouldn't have to. Installed the extended SS brake lines I had and modified the lower end to fit on the F350 calipers. They decided to sit perfectly where I wanted them to. :banana: Mocking up the steering stabalizer. Got the brackets from a FSJ Dana 44 I used to have, figured I kept it for a reason. Had a little argument with the 350 and lost a few eye lashes but got her started yesterday. Just need to fine tune the carb, fill the coolant all the way, and run the choke cable then the engine will be done. So that's where I'm at now. Have plans on getting the Jeep back on the road by the end of this weekend. More updates will be coming in the next couple days.