Garvin

The y-link setup on my Cherokee was stable as all hell. I think I might be tied into a y-link since I'm not sure the RK full length arms will clear the headers. I'm going to head out and measure everything later this week for that aspect. I do still have my Rusty's y-link arms to mock everything up. Might bend my cross member back and stengthen it just to mock something up. This talk kinda has me wanting to head out there and remeasure everything again just for peace of mind. :(

You could just buy the Crown steel braided extended lines for like $90 if you want to go with ones made for Cherokee's. I had a set of them on my old Cherokee and didn't have a single issue with them. I'm actually running them on my Comanche now.

I measured everything out and the headers will clear long arms, it hits right near the mount and just enough where the flange won't sit flat. The headers actually run right along the floor, kinda worked out pretty well there. I'm leaning towards running the Y-link arms again cause I've had good luck with them and they flexed great on my old Cherokee. Since you have to cut holes through the frame, I just want to choose one and that's it, don't want to go cutting multiple holes in the frame if I don't like a kit. If the TnT kit didn't go up in price, I'd be out buying that one but it went up $200 in the last year. :fs1:

Right now I'm running 30/35, but will be running 60HP/14 bolt, assuming I can trade off or sell this 10.25.

I ripped mine out a while ago on the old Cherokee, the light was driving me crazy so it had to go. Every 60k miles or so it trips the maintenance light, pretty much saying to clean the valve cover and replace the oxygen sensor. When mine tripped and I looked it up in a manual when I worked at the shop, it said the only way to reset it was to replace it, so mine went in the dumpster.

To start off, I'm building up an '86 Comanche long bed. It currently has a SOA in the rear with an XJ rear Dana 35 and the front has Rusty's 8.5" coils, JK control arms, RE track bar and drop pitman. I'm halfway through swapping in a Chevy 350 in place of the 2.8L and the long tube headers are hitting the upper controls, that's where my issues come in. I'm looking for input on long arms from anyone running them. I currenly only have experience from the Rusty's setup that I was running on my Cherokee. Also curious of your guys input on a 3 link vs 4 link and seperate arms vs a Y-link setup. Any input is appreciated. I am not new to this whole Jeeping thing, just am looking for some first hand experience for these kits. I do have a few kits in mind that I'd like to run: TnT Customs Rusty's Rough Country Rock Krawler I have no issues modifying the cross members some to fit the Comanche for the Cherokee setups, just don't want to mess with the whole geometry and whatnot to the front.