Garvin

Would need a bit more info on what you have in mind. Are you just replacing the stock 30 steering with something else or going a whole different route? With that said...For beefiness and ease of replacement parts, I'd go the Chevy tie rod with the 1.5" OD x 0.25" wall DOM. I have that under my Jeep and love it. New tie rods are like $15-$25 and in stock at all auto parts stores.

Please keep the flaming out of this as he does have a valid point. A min 1 1/2" to max 3" lift is pretty vague. He is at the same point as me I don't want to run any higher than stock springs in SOA, reason I opted out of this buy. I'm also curious to see actual results of lift after the springs have settled in some.

About 6" in central Jersey, I'll snap some pictures later today if I remember.

Enough to crack the corners of an aluminum bed rail mounted box. lol I plan on welding this one back together then swapping it over to my '92 then getting a bed mounted one (one that bolts to the bottom) and swaping everything over. In NJ, tow truck drivers will give you issues if your vehicle is modified so I try to carry as much as I can to fix it and not put up with that hassle. I've also grown up on a farm and have been a mechanic for god knows how many years so that doesn't help.

That's a somewhat debatable statement, all matters what the vehicle is primarily used for. For offroad, a longer upper is better to keep the pinion pointed at the transfer case under flex. For onroad, an equal length upper is better for caster angle. The thing you will notice the most in either situation though is the angle of the long arms, keep them as parallel as you can with the ground for best manners.

You won't believe how many times I've used this stuff on the trail. My buddy and I both tend to break stuff the oddest stuff. Forgot about the 4"x30' 30,000lb recovery strap, cheapo 10k tow strap (never know when you need a second one and I got this one for free), few ratchet straps, few bungie cords, folding shovel, spare Dana 60 hubs, picks, glass cleaner, rags, spare wiper arm and blades (I've broken wiper arms on the trial before). That's the majority of it now, sure I'm still missing some! This all doesn't include a few quarts of water, the fire extinguisher, spare clothes and a few things of munchies inside the cab.

You will want closer to 9" axle separation, which isn't hard to do. If the LCA mounts hang below the frame then 4" is simple to get. If you can, try to get closer to 7" if you can. Those might not sound like a lot of difference but it makes a massive different on anti-squad and anti-dive numbers.

Definitely worth the $300 but I'd be scared of stacking the tie rod and drag link on that one bolt. It doesn't take as much as most people thing to bend those bolts.

Inside mine are (I'm sure I'll forget some): Hydraulic jack Bottle jack Scissor jack (you can never have enough jacks) 2 gallons of coolant (goes up to 3 or 4 if I'm going wheeling) 2 quarts of ATF 4 quarts of 75W90 (manual trans and diffs) 2 quarts of brake fluid 2 gallons of oil Drain pan Hard brake line and fuel line with compression fittings 2 spare extended soft lines Bunch of spare hose clamps, hoses, serp belt, permatex, etc... (forget all what I have in that box) 3 spare u-joints (1310, 1310/1350, 1350) 4 full strips (~15 sockets each) of 1/4" sockets, two deep and two shallow, one of each metric and SAE 4 full strips of 3/8" sockets, same as above 4 full strips of 1/2" sockets, same as above 8 ratchets (2 1/4", 4 3/8", 2 1/2") 2 full sets of wrenches (1 SAE and 1 metic) A bunch of pliers, pry bars, torx bits and various other little pieces My Jeep is pretty much a mobile repair vehicle. :D

I'm biased against radius arms so if I were to buy an off the shelf kit, it would have to be the RK 3-link or 4-link setup with separate arms. The only thing I hate about them is that there isn't even vertical separation at the frame end.

I use the aluminum Tractor Supply one. Same issues as jimoshel with the single lid but not as much as an issue since mine is all the way in the back of the bed (running a roll bar so no space up front). It's help up well to my abuse being overloaded but is starting to crack around the edges but I have atleast 300lbs of crap in it and go wheeling with it full.

Just because you can doesn't mean it's always the best of ideas. With that said, a rear axle swap really doesn't involve much time or work. All you need are spring perches and maybe shock brackets (I say maybe because if the axle shafts are the same size then you can reuse the factory spring plates that have the shock brackets on them). Past that it's just getting rims for it (if a different bolt pattern), running the brakes and making sure the yoke and drive shaft play well together (as well as the drive shaft length).

4-link essentially has a redundant upper control arm so it's safer in case something happens. 3-link also gives you a small about of brake steer but nothing to worry about once you get used to it (minor amount but VERY easy to counter act). I prefer my 3-link due to the binding of a 4-link (and yes, it will bind in my suspension as I built a LCOG Jeep) but most will never see the binding. I drive mine about 30 miles a day to and from work without any issues. I think RK makes a true 3-link setup. I would get that over the radius arm style 3-link if I were you.

If it helps any, I can see if I can find the schematic for the cluster kicking around tonight when I get home. Send me your email and I can send you what I have.

I know for a fact that up to '90 will fit the dash without an issue, not sure if they made any dash changes in '91. If it helps any with the rewiring, I had to swap two wires when I went to the newer style cluster. The alternator wire was one of them and think it was an illumination wire I swapped it with but don't quote me on that one. It was just a simple swap position between the two and everything worked fine.

I'm glad I'm not the only one with an emblem fetish. lol

I use ATF in the transfer case and 75W90 in the transmission. The transmission has close to 200k on it and still shifts as smooth as new, even behind a 300hp Chevy 350 for the last 10-15k miles.

I have to agree with Alexia. That front bumper is pushed back pretty far meaning there might be actual frame rail damage. If the frame rail is bent then the crumple zones are atleast tweaked some and from the angle of the bumper, the drivers side bumper mounting point is also probably bent (that is an easy fix though). It's almost impossible to say yes or no to repairable unless you can get some pictures of the frame itself.

That's a sad story, was a really good looking MJ also.

TJ coils are 2" shorter than XJ/MJ fronts so those 4" lift coils will only net you 2" on the XJ. I'm not sure about the shocks though as I don't know the stock measurements for both.

I'm sure my pump would work a hell of a lot better if I took it from the top of the tank to the side but it feeds the 350 fine, I don't see anyone having an issue with it no matter where it's planted with the 4.0L. And a simple solution to a noisy pump, turn the radio up louder. ;)

I'm not sure about the '87+ but for an '86, the lip on the firewall needs to be trimmed and hammered back if using the large cap HEI distributor. It still comes out fairly easily also. I swapped to the small cap HEI distributor (needed to go electronic advance) and there is all the room in the world there. Just swapped my distributor out the other day and easily took it out. 351C is a bit much IMHO, I'd go the 351W route. The big block aspect of it makes it a major pain to fit while the 351W is a pain because it's so tall. Nothing a BFG and welder to the hood can't fix though!

The E2000 pump comes with a foam cover which might not sound like a lot but does quiet the pump down drastically. I can barely hear the pump with the Jeep off and the pump running and it's in the front of the bed, right behind the cab.

Don't forget that they're almost entirely a stand alone system.

First time I got called Mr. Garvin. lol That's actually the correct way of doing it but you can also use rubber hose and figure out a way to tie it off at the bottom to prevent it from just floating on the top of the fuel. Also don't use just any ordinary rubber hose, use fuel line as the regular vacuum type hose will just deteriate in the gasoline. If doing everything the correct way, it's going to be much cheaper and simpler to just get a new stock tank and new fuel pump and just swap over your sender. My cell cost me $270 shipped (with the level sender and foam), pump cost around $75, new aluminum fuel lines around $50, plus the time and hassle to set everything up and route it correctly. I bought the middle of the road stuff also as I'm not made of money and didn't want the stuff to break on me in a month.