Garvin

All you need to do to convert 27 spline to 29 is swap the spiders and axle shafts over. Very simple yet worthwhile upgrade from what I've seen. I've never had issues with the 27 spline 8.25 that used to be in my Comanche though, even with the V8 (went one tons, only reason it came out).

I know of a guy that put up a TJ he had, jumped in the shower and had an email by time he got out saying they have cash in hand and will pick it up now. Had the Jeep sold within an hour. He bought it for $2k and sold it for $5500.

Keep in mind that there are a few triangulations. You have triangulated uppers/straight lowers, triangulated lowers/straight uppers, and double triangulated. The best of all is double triangulated but it's also the most complex to set up. The first two also give you flex steer while the third doesn't. For lift size and tire size, that depends on how much you want to trim. I trimmed my fenders and bed up to the body line and can run 42's on 6" of lift with 1 1/2" of extra clearance, this is on 4" uptravel and 8" down. If you're looking for setups you can steal ideas off of, go to Pirate4x4 and go into the Jeep Cherokee section. There are many Comanches in there with bobbed beds, tubbed beds and double triangulated rear suspension setups.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_master-cylinder--remanufactured-cardone_5350867-p?searchTerm=brake+master That's the one I'm running. They make a front disc/rear drum, front disc/rear disc and hydroboost front disc/rear disc from what I've seen. You want the last one. They supplied my rear disc/rear disc on my Cherokee nicely (3/4 ton Chevy rear) as well as the rear disc/rear drum stock setup on my '86. They also supply the rear disc/rear drum one ton setup I currently have on my Comanche without an issue. This was all with a single diaphragm booster.

It's not so much that it's a GM sourced engine, the main issue is it just doesn't put out enough power for the gearing that they matched to it. A lot of the hardcore wheeling Jeepers turn to GM engines when building up a competition rig, usually closer in lines with the LQ or LS series.

'78ish Grand Marquis with 4 wheel disc and hydroboost is the direct bolt in upgrade. You can pick up two of the premade shot lines and just bend them and they will have the correct ends to convert from the Marquis master to the Jeep prop valve.

Liquid Iron Industries http://www.liquidironindustries.com/product.php?productid=17855&cat=0&page=0&featured=Y

I'd highly suggest against the TnT Customs ones and go for the LII ones. The TnT front stiffeners don't even go up to where the coil bracket is while the LII stiffeners go all the way to the front. Plus, the TnT ones don't have any rosette weld holes while the LII ones have them all over the place. The only advantage the TnT ones have is they wrap around slightly but a piece of angle welded in will take care of that.

TJ/LJ springs lower an XJ/MJ 2" if anyone was wondering. I have no clue on the JK springs but the 2dr JK's have softer springs in the rear than the 4dr JK's.

'92 does have the heater valve as when I did the conversion on my '90 Cherokee, I got all the parts from a '92. As for my '86, I honestly forget if it had it from the factory or not but it sure doesn't have it anymore.

My brother had an '83 Chevy Celebrity that had the 2.8L and the thing ran like a champ, the trans on the other hand took a crap and it got scrapped because of that. My '86 MJ had the 2.8L and it was nothing but troubles. It was abused before I got it though and figured out it had a bent pushrod. I replaced the pushrod just to have 2 more bend within the hour and I just ended up ripping it out and scrapping it in favor of the 350. I've heard very little along the lines of complaints for the 2.5 but it just doesn't put out enough power for my liking (and I'm not really a fan of 4 cylinders), but that's all personal bias.

There's no company that makes one that fits a Comanche. The Comanche frame is significantly larger front the LCA mounts back so the Cherokee ones won't fit it all that well, not to mention the cab supports you will have to cut out for. You're better off just making a set if you really want to stiffen that area.

A set of the LII ones would do that perfect. If you're really paranoid, there are a few that make inner braces also. I have a sorta inner brace on mine (cut the front cross member out and bolted in a custom made flush winch plate) and that's it. Not really worried about that area cracking so much as I was more worried about trying to find holes to shove more bolts for the winch plate. But as long as your frame isn't rotted, I wouldn't really worry about much behind the front stiffeners.

Just slapped a set of Liquid Iron Industries front stiffeners on my buddies Cherokee and I would highly recommend them. They're ~$20 cheaper for the 3/16" ones (compared to HD Offroads 10 gauge). There's no real need to stiffen up anything else unless you plan on doing some real extreme stuff, like Pirate4x4 extreme. I haven't had an issue with mine and I'm running a V8 and a custom 3-link front suspension, as well as one ton axles.

doing all that work then going carb seems like the half assed approach in my eyes. I went from carb to fuel injection on the 350 in my '86 and would never look back. Yes, it's a good bit of work but well worth it in the end.

27 going on 18. :)

I'm pretty sure that indent is for clearance for the upper radiator hose as that's the only thing in that area.

I've seen newer 4dr Wranglers done with the Raptor liner and they came out great, there was no chipping or pealing anywhere. You do need to top coat it with something as any bedliner will fade (I believe Raptor liner sells a top coat). My '86 is a factory 2 tone and I plan on Raptor lining the lower color on and just spraying the upper color on once all the body work is done.

I work as a mechanical engineer for one of the largest induction furnace companies in the world. On the side I design and build custom parts for farms and local Jeeps as well as build custom Jeeps.

There are a few different types of rapid prototypers and they aren't as rapid as most people think. The one I used in school was used ABS plastic and deposited it layer by layer. To make a small funnel type inlet for my senior design project (about 12" long and 2" high) took about 12 hours. It basically had the surface finish of like what you saw in the old Doom games of being bricky. This machine was one of the more expensive ones costing around $20k with the work area being smaller than a regular sized microwaves cook area. They do have cheaper ones on the market for more of the home enthusiast that I've been looking into. All of the ones I've dealt with require a CAD program though to design the part (I used AutoCAD in school and SolidWorks everywhere else).

You shouldn't have any issues lifting from the middle, I do it all the time on anything from Jeeps to full size trucks if I just need to get the axle off the ground. The only issue with that is it teeters side to side if you plan on going up any good amount. If you are lifting it up pretty far then what I usually do is lift it up one side at a time (as Casper2000 said) and place jack stands under each side.

A bit north of you guys but still considered southern Jersey I think. I'm from Wrightstown and used to hit Wharton all the time with my '86 Comanche and older '90 Cherokee. If my '86 is alive and kicking then I'd be willing to hit up Wharton for a Comanche day out with you guys.

Be careful with the '99's. Many late production run '99's came with the 0331 casting head.

Front and rear axles are from an '89 F350 Chevy block is from a '93 Chevy 1500 Wiring is from an '88 Camaro Intake setup is from a '91 Camaro Bell housing is from a '79 Camaro Clutch is from an '86 Camaro AX15 and NP231 are from a '92 Comanche Front drive shaft is from a '94 Cherokee Clutch slave is from a '79 CJ Steering box and pitman arm are from a '99 WJ Brake master is from a mid-70's Grand Marquis Seats are from a ZJ I'm sure I'm missing some parts but that's all that I can remember off the top of my head.

With no cutting and without rubbing, 9+ inches. It comes down to as much as you want to cut to as low as you can go. Right now my Comanche is set up for 6" of lift with 42" tires with 4" up travel and 8" down (right now only running 38.5's since I'm waiting for the right set to pop up or I win the lottery). Both my front and rear are cut up to the body lines though as well as both axles are stretched (3" front and 5" rear stretch).