Garvin

Not according to the part numbers I show, 97 and 01 both show A1 Cardone P/N 18-4339 for the passenger side caliper, and P/N 18-4340 for driver. Passenger and driver side are different but the '90 and '88 the only difference is the sliders. This is unless you're talking to Eagle and quoted the wrong one.

Yep. DON'T buy Rusty's, or the same thing may happen. I have never once had an issue with the 8" LA system on my old Cherokee. A lot of the part failures I've seen with Rusty's parts was user error. Is the jam nut where the heim was screwed in to or is it where the shiny part ends a little over half way?

So when is this book coming out? I'd be interested in a copy. The calipers are different but I managed to swap them without an issue. It's mainly the sliders and bolts (maybe pads also) that are different. I swapped in an '88 Dana 30HP into my '90 Cherokee and just had to buy new sliders and bolts and my calipers fit right on it (I used the pads that were in the '90 Jeep already as they were fairly new).

You will need a lot more than that to swap the harness into your Jeep. Assuming he used the HO intake manifold then the connectors will line up fine there but you will need the ECM then. If the intake manifold (and throttle body) are Renix then the HO wiring harness will not work. If the engine block is an HO but intake/exhaust are Renix then you're better off just swapping in a Renix engine bay harness (or under dash also if that's been hacked up). There will be a few differences between a Cherokee harness and Comanche harness but they are easily fixed and have been documented multiple times (fuel pump and tail light wiring being the main issues).

The motor mounts don't need to be welded, they are bolted to the frame. There is no way to retain your flywheel/clutch setup if you plan on going to the 4.0L, plus you'll want to go to an AX15 or NV3550 as the AX4 and AX5 will not survive long behind the 4.0L. If cross members are the same between the AX4 and AW4 while the cross members of the AX5 and AX15 are dropped about an inch lower (ask me how I know...), I'm not sure about the NV3550 though but assuming it's in the same boat as the AX15. The transfer case will bolt up to an AX4, AX5 and '87-'90 AW4. You will need to swap the input splines or get a new transfer case for AX15, NV3550 and '91-'01 AW4's as they went to 23 spline. As mvusse said, if you plan on going to a 4.0, you might as well swap in the newer HO setup. But you just might be better off getting another 2.5L.

The first question should be what size tires you plan on running? The Dana 30 up front will hold up to a 33" fine in stock form. I was running 36" tires with wheel adapters and only managed to break the axle with doing stupid stuff. The rear can be swapping to a Ford 8.8 or 29 spline Chrysler 8.25. Both would need the perches welded on (the 8.25 needs the perches moved in). So what needs to be addressed first before looking at 3/4 and one ton axles is what size tires, what do you plan on doing with the Jeep (rock/mud/trail) and what is your driving style?

All AW4's up to '90 were 21 spline. In '91, they went to a 23 spline output. I can vouch for a '90 being 21 spline as my old Cherokee was that.

With all the correct tools, I can have it swapped in a matter of an hour. So say like three hours if this is your first time doing it. The hardest part of it all is taking off the pitman arm. If you have a pitman arm puller and a set of sockets and wrenches then you shouldn't have any issues tool wise.

You can find some new ones on Ebay or I have a set of used ones for sale. I also have brand new weatherstripping for them that I bought from TeamCherokee a while ago.

You would need to loosen the bolts on the top hinge (the three that connect to the door) and move the top part in slightly. Hold it there and tighten the bolts back up. It's a little trial and error with the adjustment till you get the hang of it but it's fairly easy to do.

That would be a stock 2wd front axle. Looks like new lower control arms were put on with the lift, which is good. The axle looks pretty well centered based on where the sway bar links sit compared to the springs. Your best bet would be to get longer sway bar links for the 3" lift. No matter what Cherokee I see, they always seem to hit the drivers side sway bar against the coil when longer links aren't put on. Check and clean the IAC motor for the revving issue. The IAC is located on the throttle body, on the front of the throttle body to the left of the TPS. A great site for diagnosing just about any sensor on the RENIX motors that I've used a few times. http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Engine/Basic_Sensors_Diagnostics.htm

When you say idles pretty hard, do you mean idles high or revs when it idles? Check to make sure there are no vacuum leaks anywhere as the vacuum lines like to rot away over time. There's a lot of empty space behind the bumper and the sway bar is offset farther back than that so I doubt the sway bar was damaged (atleast from the pic it looks like whatever he hit hit the front and didn't go under). The sway bar links are hitting the springs because they're too short. You can either get a set of extended sway bar links for the 3" lift or get a set from the rear of an F250 (hopefully someone else can chime in on the years). When you slap on the longer links, it'll move the sway bar up and away from the springs. For the turning issue, have a buddy turn the wheel and look underneath to see if the wheels are hitting anything. It kinda sounds like the tire is hitting the lower control arms. If that's the issue, modifying a set of WJ arms or getting a new set of rims with a different backspacing will solve that issue.

I've seen the setup have two names: load sensing valve and load proportioning valve. It's not so much as the bed rises when you stop, it's based on the load in the back. As you increase the load in the rear, the brakes will need to do more work to stop the vehicle. With an empty bed, you don't want full brakes as there is no weight back there and the brakes will lock up easily. If you want a better ride, looking into the softer shocks like Sensatrack (or however they spell it) or like OME shocks. What you can do to help with the braking is to upgrade the front (better pads, rotors, etc). This will help the Jeep stop faster and better and relieve a lot of the stress that the rear brakes have on them.

If it's the same length arms then you'll have no issues just swapping them out. The reason that you need to realign the truck after a lift is that the drag link and tie rod bars now have a steeper angle and push the tires inwards.

lol thanks. I just got fed up with all the stuff out there not being built to how I want them. RockKrawler is the only true 3-link kit but that hangs down below the cross member and doesn't have the correct separation at the frame end. Plus, I can truly say that this is built, not bought. :D

I've never had issues cleaning all the connectors and filling them up with dielectric grease. Don't forget about all your vacuum hoses and breather hoses. If you're running a snorkel, run your breather lines to the air box and make sure you hose clamp all the ends of the vacuum hoses with hose clamps. You will need to route the breather on the distributor to the air box and make sure there are no leaks (a leak out will let water leak in). I had my engine bay real close to water tight in the old Cherokee, only issue was the rear main seal and the vacuum block.

Right now I have a 3 core radiator in there with two electric fans behind her with a high flow water pump. I plan on front hood vents and a cowl hood (homemade since the aftermarket ones suck) later on, or real soon if she still runs a bit warm. If you build the fan shroud correctly, there shouldn't be too much of an issue with cooling (if I find the Pirate4x4 post again then I'll link it in here about flow properties and all that).

I've never trusted the bolt on kits. Anyways, for the price of the bolt on kit, you can get the perches (and even pick up a set of shocks mounts) and get a shop to weld everything up for you. You don't even need to grind your old mounts off if you choose to buy new ones if you don't want as they won't get in the way of the u-bolts.

The other place to check is the connection through the firewall. '86's don't have many lines that run towards the inside so when the connector starts shaking lose, you might not notice many other issues.

No matter what setup you choose, you have to weld the perches on. You can get away with shock mounts with just flipping the spring top plates from side to side to keep with the factory ones since Comanche shocks bolt farther forward of the axle than Cherokees. I ended up doing that for the time being but will be making new mounts top and bottom to run longer shocks for flex.

The SOA and IronMan4x4 2-3.5" shackles (adjusted all the way in to 2") netted me 6.5" of lift, my springs still have a good amount or arch to them too (I've also swapped in the 8.25 over the 35 so the perches could have been a different height there). It actually worked out perfect for me though as 8.5" lift on the front leveled the Jeep out (had a 2" rake front to back). From what I've seen, the numbers go from 4.5"-6", with the 6" being more towards new springs that haven't settled in yet. Expect somewhere around 5.5" if you keep the same axle. To get a more exact measurement before everything is done, measure from the axle center line to the top of the mount (the end the leaf bolts to) then multiply it by 2. That's the lift you will be getting assuming you use the same size perches for the SOA conversion.

Awesome, thanks for answering that. I'm using the HEI setup so it's just going to jump off the power line going to the coil (only line minus the ones that come up from the ignition module). I figured it was that way but wanted to make sure. Now I just need to get off my butt and grab that other pigtail from the junkyard by me to get a nice clean install.

That's how I justified my carb, that and I didn't want to run any wires. :) Mine isn't running yet (will be soon) but I have a Chevy 350 mated to an AX15 and NP231 in my Comanche. The only fitment issues were for the headers but I got a set of them from Novak Adapters that fit right in there perfectly.

I'm swapping to a full cluster in the '86 Comanche. I have a '90 Cherokee full cluster to swap in. I know the speedometer cables are different and have the one from the '90 and the odometer is changed to the correct mileage. All the connectors look the same but just wanted to make sure it will plug right in without any issues. The other question. I've swapped in a Chevy 350 into this Jeep so the wiring is all different at the engine bay. I've traced down the wires to the tach being the green w/white wire going into the original 2.8L coil from wiring diagrams (goes from pink from the distributor to the coil then green w/white to the cluster). Anyone by chance know which wire this connects into to get a tach on a Chevy 350?

'87-'90, '91-'95. '96, '97-'99. 00'-01 are the five 4.0L blocks they used in Cherokees. Technically, you can put any of the engines in yours but you would need to transfer your accessories (front parts and intake/exhaust). Some used sensor holes that were plugged in other years and the heads are slightly different but all interchange. My buddy has a '93 engine in his '01. He had to swap the front parts (pump, power steering, alternator, a/c comp, brackets, intake manifold, exhaust manifold, etc...) but it was a direct bolt in.