Rymanrph

Its running now and will soon be driving. I need to bleed the brakes and modify the exhaust to fit the new headers. Seat belts are on the way. I have some electrical gremlins to chase down too. The rear lights an brake lights work, but no reverse lights, only one parking light, one of four marker lights and no headlights. I'm not sure if any of the gauges work either. This shot is from back before Christmas, but should give you an idea of how its going to look.

Welcome from another Ryan and a former SRT-4 owner. I have the same username of the SRT forums. Post up some pictures of your Neons along with the Comanche.

I've got about a $70 credit at 4 Wheel Parts, but I have no idea what to spend it on. Any suggestions?

Good looking car. Did it have a chin spoiler or something removed?

I love that. I want it.

Yeah, I got rid of it. I'll drive it for a while and see how I like the performance. If I need to add a proportioning valve back in later, I can.

I took the truck to the shop today and I had a combination of problems. I did have some air in the line, but they ended up having to remove the master and adjust the rod as well. I didn't even know that was possible. They also fine tuned the adjustment on my rear brakes and parking brake. All is well again.

I hope you don't mind me adding what I did for wiring. My donor was a '97 so your wiring should be the same, but depending on what year your MJ is, they might be slightly different; mine was a '90. I wired mine like the XJ lights so the middle lights function as the turn signals and are not constantly lit with the upper bulbs.

Rymanrph, on 02 Apr 2011 - 17:27, said:

The fronts aren't too bad since I have speed bleeders. I couldn't find any small enough locally for the rear cylinders. At this point, I just feel like I'm wasting brake fluid. I haven't driven the thing in so long that every time I crank it to see if its working, I have to put a jumper on it.

I removed the height load valve (whatever its called) and my pedal is a little better, but not great. I think what's failing me now is my bleeding method; I'm doing it by myself with a tube down in a 2 liter bottle of brake fluid. I don't think the tube is making as good of a seal on the bleeder as I'd want, so I think it may be pulling a little air in when I lift the brake pedal. I did find a loose hard line on the rear axle, so I know that probably helped. I'm going to take the truck to be inspected next week and I'm going to have the shop take a look at the brakes while its in there.

I don't have any help bleeding, so I have to do it myself. I think I'm just going to remove the valve and try that. I can always put it back on later.

My neighbors had two of those Civics when I was growing up and I never thought much of them, but you really don't see them much any more. Gotta love E body Plymouths. I love my '68, but I'd take a '70-'74 'cuda any day. What motor do you have in it? I know they're not that uncommon, but I really like the wheel/tire package you have on the truck. I agree with yellaheep, don't even bother trying to fix that harness - go find a donor.

I pulled this from another thread about removing the load sensing valve. All of the charts and pictures I could find had bad links. Two questions: If I'm keeping the MJ distribution block, is the above assumption correct? plug the nose and keep the bottom front. And since the flex line isn't long enough (nor have the right connections), can I just run a hard line extension from the one line that I'm keeping to the flex line? If that's the case, then it sounds pretty easy (and cheap) and worth trying.

I don't get a brake light on the dash because I have a '97 cluster. I tried swapping out the check valve from my old booster, but it behaves exactly the same. I have never been impressed with the brakes on this truck, but I know that the pedal shouldn't go all the way to the floor (stopping point) with it as soft as it is. I'm sure that my load sensing valve probably isn't adjusted correctly. I may look in to eliminating it to see if that's causing the problem. My registration/tax bill and inspection is due this month so I may just end up taking it somewhere. I really don't like other people working on my vehicles, but I only have so much time and I'm really tired of bleeding the brakes by myself.

I used a regular bleeder again this morning and no change. :fs1:

Well, I tried the above procedure for bleeding the height level valve and its probably a little worse than it was before. I have speed bleeders on the front that won't allow air back in, but when bleeding the rear with the front open, it should have the same effect; fluid can still flow out. I'm kinda stumped. I drove it down the street and back and it will stop, but I just don't have much confidence in it. I'd hate to be in a panic stop situation.

As much as I love the idea, I feel like it would need a huge lift and 35s at a minimum to look anywhere close to proportionate. Bobbing the front of the bed might help, but then you lose bed space (obviously). One thing I'm glad that you are doing is using a rear door portion for the back door to maintain the body line with the cab vents. Still curious to see how you handle the glass for those doors. Good luck! Its great to see progress.

The engine bay was painted and I got the engine installed this weekend. The headers can't be connected to the motor when its lowered in. They have to already be in the engine bay and the motor has to be lowered 3/4 of the way. Then you can bolt up the headers and drop it down. A buddy of mine came over and it took us several hours. Thank for the help offer. If you need any, just let me know.

Depending on what decals you're looking for, Spencer may be able to help you at www.jeepsticker.com. He's great to deal with.

That is one sharp looking Cherokee. I've never been a big fan of those turbine wheels, but in that color with those tires on that rig, I totally dig it.

Whoa! It looks fantastic (my opinion is not biased at all). The paint job looks great!

That's certainly interesting. I have speed bleeders on the front, so it won't be that big of a deal to do. I probably should just get rid of that balance valve, but oh well. I'll have to give it a try. Thanks for the help.

Actually, no I still have it.

I have the opposite problem; the brake pedal is soft while running, but firm when off. I understand that it should be firmer when off, but it shouldn't be as soft as it is while running.