ParadiseMJ

The way it came from the factory was a poor way to do it. Cheap hose, iffy result. Every one I've seen has either been torn off, fallen off or is falling apart. Please note that they're not even there on later models of MJ's & XJ's. It also limits the exhaust manifolds available since a replacement with the correct O2 and EGR bungs has the funky aluminum shield on it, unless you buy custom headers for $$$. Anyhoo, mine are gone with no apparent problems

I don't have any experience with "rust belt" rust, but I'd prefer something smooth that would hose off easily as opposed to something like rubberized undercoating or Herculiner. Seems it holds on to dirt and water (and salt). Smooth like POR-15 or ??.

Why don't you just take it from an ACC slot on the fuse box...inside?

I got a tailgate protector in diamond plate for a Ranger, too wide, as in thick. I cut about an inch off with my table saw. After that it fit perfect. Stainless screws and silicone in between.

That quacked me up!

Not me...but I'm sure the V8 used (e.g. 302, 350) will make a difference. It won't be good. Whatever the original vehicle it was in probably got better mileage because it was likely not pushing a brick.

Small rubber hose = coolant overflow Metal line = Trans. Down below that could be P/S fluid. Anything else...?

I've used 3M #77 on three vehicles now. The XJ I did 4 years ago...still holding. The MJ last year, looks new. I also did my son's Subaru 3 or so years ago...same result. Some of those adhesives are friggin expensive (like $20 a can) which would tend to make someone scrimp on the AMOUNT of adhesive. Make sure you buy MORE than you think you'll need and be generous with it. It's not something you can run to the store to buy more half way thru the job. You can always return the stuff you don't use.

There are different sizes for RENIX and for HO's. The grommets and elbows are different on the RENIX rigs. The elbows and grommets for an HO are larger. Just follow the correct year and you'll get the right part. The ninth one down are the correct lines for your RENIX.

I have been having a grinding, rolling sound under the MJ. Sometimes it does it when just sitting there idling, sometimes when taking off from a stop, sometimes when coming to a stop. It does not coincide with RPM or even coasting. I've checked the bearings, I've checked the brakes, driveline etc, I've spent a considerable amount of time laying under the Jeep looking for loose stuff...nothing. Until this morning. My exhaust is just laying on the cross member...looks like it belongs there, but I know it doesn't. It only moves about an inch any direction. It's not really clanging around. It's more like just riding the cross member and when the engine is running, well, it moves around. It's finally raining out here, and it's really raining and I do't have a dry place to look at it...so...is there a fix besides just strapping the pipe up. Do I insulate it. :dunno: I'm ecstatic that i found the source of the noise...now all I need to do is fix it...the right way. Suggestions??

You MAY need to spend even more. I've spent thousands on my two "free" Jeeps Start with the easy stuff, or the obvious first. Replace the CPS, read up on how to do it yourself. MAP sensor not likely (if it's hooked up and there is vacuum, that is). Fuel, Air, Spark is the path to follow. You're missing at least one. Make sure your grounds are clean and secure, battery fully charged etc., gas in tank. Remember most mechanics charge $80 to $100 an hour. So you gotta be %&k'n sure they know what they're doing and will communicate (the truth) with you!!

Our NAPA Auto Parts here actually has a good selection of marine switches. Of course we live next to the second biggest lake in CA at Oroville Dam. Lotsa boats. Theres also this set up I have in the MJ. Found on Ebay. Four switches, each switch has it's own relay. The gang switches came prewired with a common ground. Fits nicely in the "coin holder" behind the shifter (some cutting required). 1. Aux KC driving lights 2. Spotlight 3 Lights and power outlet for inside camper shell and for a cargo light when towing. 4. Reserve, not used 5. and I used the stock switch for the fogs.

I used the spot where the stock clock is, otherwise wasted dash space, I have a clock on the radio. Some cutting wiring and plexiglas painted black. Left side - E-Fan Right side - driving lights ... the stock holes already have switches for fogs etal. This is in the XJ.

Thanks, worth looking at. Yes it should be obvious...my troubleshooting skills usually work backwards anyway...I think I'll get under there and look :dunno: Jim, if I just roll up the windows and drive, I might just get enough exhaust in the cab to solve ALL my problems :D

Thanks, 1. No thudding...definitely a "tick", right along with RPM's 2. I ask because I can also smell exhaust in the cab a bit (windows open). 3. I'll do the stethoscope, thanks, but it is a nice tickety *tick* ...AND if I was to go ahead and try to fix the lifters, would that be part of a general cylinder head service including R&R. OR should I just live with it...no running or driveability issues, just annoying. My hearing is beginning to go south with my advancing age so it might not be a problem for long.

I've got the "typical" 4.0 ticking, louder when cold, quiet at speed, quietER at temp. So here's my question(s). 1. Since the manual tranny doesn't have a flexplate, but has a flywheel instead, are loose bolts on the FLYWHEEL a possible source of ticking? 2. Would a simple exhaust leak make the same type of ticking sound?? Would it go away with temp or after running for an hour at highway speed. 3. What is the difference (sound wise) between piston slap and lifter tick. Trying to get at this in the next few weeks. Not a DD

:popcorn: I need an answer on this too!! Watching.

Sorry to disagree. The spacer goes at the top...the new isolator (I say new because it's likely old and squishy) and then the spring. That is the way all the installation guides I've seen, hard to the body, rubber to the spring. I got a true 2" and maybe more (like an extra 1/2 inch) with new isolators.

...and then if anything gets goobered or damaged, it's on them. That is a good price, even if they charged $25 or so extra for the rubber.

I think you are right about the lazy...or at least inept. I too remember the bubble balancers too and had never had a balance problem with them. I a$$umed the the computerized balancers would be "even better", and they may be. All I know is I've had balance issues almost everytime with these guys... The independent shop I go to uses both types of machines...we'll see what happens today.

It's not as severe as DW...which I have experienced in the XJ. It does continue past 60-65 etc. But it's not DW...not yet!! If I had read this post I would also say it IS a tire balance issue...BUT...they suposedly balanced the tires 3 times. On my XJ I took it to another shop after Schwab "balanced it 3 times" and the guy said it was waaaay off. When he balanced it the wobble went away, smooth as silk. I'll be taking it to that other shop tomorrow...and actually PAYING for it to be balanced & rotated. The tires themselves are in great shape, as are the wheels, shocks, bushings, ball joints and bearings. So digging deeper into this I took the cotter pin out at the frame side track bar mount and could turn the nut about a quarter turn with MY FINGERS. Then I put the stubby wrench on it and was able to turn the nut at least 2 full turns, comfortably. If I really torqued on it I could have gotten at least another turn out of it. So now it's tight-er. Then I get the wife to turn the wheel lock to lock a few times with my finger on the frame end. As it's coming off the turn it tries to bind and then *pops* down about 1/4". So the track bar is shot...it's probably original equipment from 1988...it sure looks like it. So, new track bar tomorrow and then I'll take it to "the other shop" to balance...no more Les Schwab for me. I'll still tell folks that a slight wobble at 50-55 is a balance issue. I think I just have a the track bar issue compounding it all. Once I have the track bar in the whole suspension will be new (under 1000 mi.). Thanx for the input, I'll update when I can get to a road where I can go 55 or faster.

The caster as I understand it and as the dude at the tire store spent 10 minutes explaining it to me is not adjustable on a straight axle. As explained, I would need to upgrade to adjustable ball joints...not in my plan. All I know is that I took it there to get aligned and everything was fine. Now it's all f++ked up. ...or do I not have the right understanding about caster/camber /\ ] [ \ /. ...the toe is perfect.

88 MJ Pioneer 4.0, 5 spd. ~~3" lift 31x10.5...ALMOST completely rebuilt In the last few months I've done: Track bar bushing - axle side , new bolt, no rust, torqued n' tight. New steering dampner Extended SB links LCA bushings - rubber Drove it back and forth to work for a week...200 mi. All OK All TRE's including drag link Drove it back and forth to work for a week...200 mi. All OK ZJ V8 tie rod with a new TRE, solid end good with new boot. Bolted right in. Drove it back and forth to work for a week...200 mi. All OK. Great even, a more solid feeling. So I took it to Les Schwab to have it aligned to finish off my work. Just to be sure. Drove it back and forth to work for a week...200 mi . and then it started... wiggling at about 52 and went away at 60. I was also pulling slightly to the right. I swapped the already balanced tires from my XJ, still wiggled...now it's more a wobble...but it is not severe...like DW...but it doesn.t go away at 60...just gets worse. Now I CAN"T drive it back and forth to work...I gotta fix this. So I took it back to Les Schwab. They checked the alignment and said it was right on. They balanced the tires again. The only thing that really CHANGED anything between all that was getting the alignment done, but they say alignment would not cause it to wobble...so they balanced the tires AGAIN!!! :dunno: Now it's still wobbling. So, now what??? Any ideas :dunno:

Soo, you can change the oil, yes? Besides/instead swapping over to the newer VC make sure the rear (smaller vacuum line) is clear of crap, not kinked and actually attached at both ends. While you're at it check the front & rear grommets, if they are torn or rotted, replace them.Since you're in there check ALL the vacuum lines for cracks, kinks and leaks. Replace anything questionable...vacuum line is cheap. I thought I had nice clean grommets. Look at these pictures of my RENIX style grommets and you'll see what I mean. Looks acceptable...but Image Not Found This the inside of the old one, basically rotted and swollen shut... This the inside of the new one. This is the orofice size (2.6mm) from one of those ear scopes that I swiped from the doc's office. [Disclaimer]

I have Silverstars on both Jeeps and Silverstar Ultra bulbs on my Nissan GXE. I am also an old geezer at 59, don't see well at night. The Silverstar's are adequate and I drive to work at 5 am (always dark) on deer infested country roads. As far as lasting long...I have yet to need to change them after 2-3 years. ...but then you could do the 747 aircraft headlamp upgrade...nyuk, nyuk, nyuk.