ParadiseMJ

I've often read about cleaning up your throttle body but I'd never done it on either of my RENIX Jeeps. When I swapped the 5 speed for the AW4 I had to remove the thottle body to tap some holes for the TV cable since the 5 speed did not have a cable. The holes for the bracket were there but not threaded...the TV cable ball end is also missing, engineered to work. I was so surprised how filthy the TB is. It looks like a 1975 hash pipe in a 420 friendly frat house. I've had no trouble with it but the ports to the IAC and the MAP vac line were all but clogged with, er, resin...crap! Anyhoo, what's the best stuff to clean the crannys up with? Chemtool? Brake cleaner? I got my brass wire wheel for the big parts but the little corners need a specialist.

You have a cable? I just had a piece of wire...looked stock. Seems like you could tighten it up. It's really rather easy to remove the MJ bench seat. Spray the runners with white lithium grease. Tighten up the wire...er, cable.

I have one intact and 1 missing. When I saw that I'd have remove the bearing to replace it I said no. Doesn't seem to make a difference either way.

I went for a nice ride today in my 1988 MJ with a brand new (to me) 1994 AW4 Transmission. My "no go" issue was this: I thought I totally screwed up by not putting fluid into the new torque converter. As it turned out it did fill with the engine running. Since I had to modify the T-case linkage and I had it out and the t-case was in Neutral...that's right, I had the t-case in Neutral.So laying under the truck I had a epiphany...I crawled out, walked over to the XJ, put the t-case in Neutral, fired it up and put in drive. Whaddya know, it wouldn't roll either. So I went back to the MJ put the t-case in 2H, put the tranny in Drive and boom, rear wheels spinning (off the ground). All I still have to do is the TCU and some piddlin' brake light wiring but IT'S ALIVE!!! Runs nicely as I shift thru the gears manually. Thank you to all the advisers that have chimed in on my threads over the last 2 months of putting this together. :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :jump:

Yea, I know, I do this stuff too!!! :thumbsup:

Sweet. Gotta love simple. As far as the fluid on the box...I caught mine early. I found a "smear" of fluid on the upper right corner of the fuse box under the dash. As a result the gauges fuse socket was kind of disfigured and lightly corroded and half of it broke off when I fiddled with it. I now have the proper fuse reinforced with two beads of solder on the fuse to make it fatter so it makes contact in the socket. Sealing up such a leak prone system is a huge PITA, if possible at all. There must be a better M/C set-up that isn't so weak. Anybody? Upgrades?? Maybe AutoZone has the answer!! :D

Did the bolt come with the shocks? Doesn't look like a stock shock mounting bolt. Try the HELP! section at your local auto parts place. They'll have an adapter shock mount. With the 1/2" part flared out to ~5/8" or so to fit the shock bushing. I used them building my trailer, solved the same problem.

Doh!! I knew I forgot something True. Great idea, the rear end is already up, but not turning yet. I'm getting a good stream of Dex when starting. The cooler is full top to bottom. Thanks 3 days off ahead.

I do have a tranny cooler on it. After I ran it at idle for about ten minutes the cooler was warm. I will pull a hose to see if it's circulating. Thank you. I have to hook the brake pedal up so I can actually start it and run it. I'd hate for it to catch and not have a brake. Then I'd have a new double door in my barn.

NO. :grrrr: Somehow I thought that the trans oil pump filled it as it was turning. :dunce: I have run my XJ dry before...as in I spewed tranny fluid for about 2 miles down a dirt road and it took 8 + qts to re-fill it. Sooooo,...I filled the new dry trans with 8 qts. of Dex, checked it again, read just under full, running, in Park the dipstick reads normal. So, how screwed am I? Does this mean I have to pull the tranny again??

Yes, it is a new converter. I verified it being seated ala the FSM. New seal, made sure it turned I stood the tranny on it's butt and turned - clunk - turned - clunk - turned ka- chunk. When I stabbed the tranny it slid right on, finger tightened the bolts almost all the way on. The flex plate bolts lined right up and were in just the right spot. I sure as @$%# do not want to remove it and check...but :(

Thanks Don. As I lay there last night looking at the ceiling I thought "I need an AW4 manual". :cheers:

OK, the AW4 tranny is in, buttoned up, lines, cooler, full of fluid, engine starts & runs fine. I have not hooked up the TCU yet, but have it figured out and ready to install and wire up. I have also yet to hook up the new brake pedal and that wiring. So, when I start it, and put it into gear it "sounds" like it's going into gear but it won't move, or even try to move. Any suggestions??

There are NO clearance issues with the ZJ HD fan, did I emphasize NO ISSUES. The ZJ MAX COOL fan will NOT fit but the NAPA part number cruiser54 offered will fit and will give you a good 25% more air flow at idle, in traffic etc. If your going that route...don't even bother telling the parts guy anything but the part number, just the part number. radiatorbarn.com has good all metal radiators at ~~$130-$140. They also have UBER-fast shipping. I got mine on my doorstep in 1 day, and I live in the boonies.

The speed sensor is replaceable. Don't have a pic. It's a rubber plug with a 90 degree (inside) sensor. Outside it just looks like a thick wire with a plug. about as long as a spark plug...almost looks like spark plug wire...at the back of the trans, like said.

Thanks Much! ...and I agree on the AMOUNT of work. I have completed this swap working outside on my "floor" of three sheets of plywood over the gravel driveway, in the sun, after work. I've also sweated my arse off in the junkyard pulling parts an fighting with spiders and mosquitoes. I would NOT do it again, this way. I'm 59 and getting up and down 40 times a day isn't as easy as it used to be

List: AW4 including:: AW4 torque converter AW4 flexplate AW4 TCU & harnesss Compatible Transfer Case Compatible bell housing Shifter Shifter plate Shifter bracket Shifter Bezel Shifter cable. TV cable Park/lock cable 2" longer front shaft 2" shorter rear shaft That's the short list. If you can find a 100% donor, great. Otherwise it's alot of money in the new parts or trolling the junkyards. http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1053970

OK, mission accomplished. The hole is in the trans tunnel about 4-5" in front of the shifter assembly, off a bit to the left, looking up from below. I lowered the tranny about 4" to get the cable and the grommet up and over the bell housing. When I looked before all I saw was a dirt covered plug. Thanks guys...it's time for a cocktail...I'm on vacation. :cheers:

Now THAT would be way to logical. I cannot find such a hole...even with the tranny out. I'm just about done with this swap but this here is vexing me. I look at the 90 XJ and the cable SEEMS to take the long route, almost like a PO swapped a column shift out for a floor shift...but my father bought it new in 1990. I look at the Chiltons manual and the actual diagram of the "hole" is the only thing not covered (which is typical of Chiltons).

:popcorn:

Does anyone have a picture of where the AW4 floor shift cable enters the MJ's cab from the front? I can't seem to find a logical entry point On my XJ it looks like it runs up under the brake booster and into a grommet in the upper corner of the firewall. Seems like and odd routing. I got the shift cable off of an 89 XJ with an AW4 and floor shifter in good shape but it doesn't seem long enough to make the whole trip up and around. What am I missing.

I gotta swear by OXY-CLEAN. I removed my nasty greasy seat belts from my MJ project and soaked them overnight "just to see" if it'd work. When I came out the next morning and just rinsed them off they looked brand spankin' new. I've also used it on junkyard seats that were nasty and they came out clean as a whistle, did my carpet too.

I' have been wondering how to do that. Got any tips. The "partial" harness I have was cut at the diagnostic plug ins...anything past that is gone. But the other end that plugs into the ECU is all in good shape with injector wires and all the sensors. Thanks. P.S. What do you expect when you do hook the battery up?

Gear ratio, check the gear ratio.

The new shaft is from an XJ with no apparent lift, stock arms, AW4/231...jacked up at the yard. I'm just reading what the tape measure said. The IMPORTANT measurement is the length of the tranny and t-case combination. That's what will dictate the length of the shaft...that's why the XJ with AW4/231 and MJ with AW4/231 are virtually identical, lifted or not. Unless you're lifting 5-6" that 1" at the CA is not going to make much difference. The shaft does not move in and out all that much in motion in my experience. Oh, and there's the disclaimer that I wrote at the bottom.