ParadiseMJ

Some radiators come with the bung already in there, behind a "knockout" like on an electrical box....but some don't. The best (IMHO) solution is to wire the fan, through the fan relay, to a switch in the cab. Rigging it to go on at a certain temp like it did when it was stock...is problematic*. It'll go on by itself when you turn on the A/C, just not with temp. Personally I like having the switch, so I can turn it on when I want it on and when I anticipate the temp spiking...like towing or on a long grade with a load on. Also I can turn it on and LEAVE it on even if it's cooled off below 200. Some do not like the switch, some do. *There are 3 temperature sensitive devices under the hood on a Renix Jeep. The one in the radiator is a switch...all it does is turn the fan on and off through the fan relay. It does not communicate with the ECU. The one in the head is a sender. It only operates the gauge on the dash, nothing more. The Coolant Temperature Sensor on the lower block is a sensor, it supplies info to the ECU to adjust the air fuel ratio at different temperatures They all work differently and none of them are interchangable. Some have tried to simulate the switch by putting a later model sensor in a HO t-stat housing...this will not work...because it's a sensor, not a switch.

I know that I had to snag the driveshaft off the t-case, at the JY (actually I was too tired/lazy to pull it off) when I swapped from 5 speed to AW4. There was about a 3-4" difference in the front shaft length. So I would think if you're going from the same engine, t-case, tranny combination...then yes the shafts are likely the same length.

32" winshield to rear of cab (straight line) 29.5" is the length of the drip rail WITHOUT THE TRIM 53.5" rail to rail straight across the back of the cab -WITHOUT THE TRIM The drip rail curves slightly so it's more like 54" - 54.5" in the center of the cab. It's not like measuring a box...but should be close enough for roof rack measurements, since most roof racks are slightly adjustable. None of this is exact. Good luck

MJ's really aren't known for being roomy. The seat will only go as far as the rails will allow. You could modify the sliders by cutting them off the mount, adding some flat stock, moving the whole assembly rearward ...blah, blah, blah. But it seems like a lot of trouble for 3 inches (that's what she said). There is supposed to be some room behind the seat BTW. You may be able to find a different bench seat, like a 60/40 out of a different truck (Dakota, Durango) but they'd likely be even bigger.

Well, that's a LOT simpler than I had thought...Thanks gents.

I'm wanting to set up an auxillary battery, easily removable to charge, and keep charged for a trolling motor battery. Wondering if anyone has an idea how to do this...or HAS done it. How would the wiring be set up? Off the batt cables or directly to alt? Would I have "backfeed" issues? Would I need another (bigger) alternator? Could I keep it in a tool box or camper...or is there a spot under the hood etc.? P.S. Thanks Don.

I just got my speedo fixed after over a year of either not having one or having one that was 15-20% off. I know it's a small thing but it makes a huge difference knowing my speed / RPM ratio. First tank showing about 18 mpg overall. My usual freeway/highway speed is ~65...at 2200 RPM, 31's, AW4, 231, 3.07 gears ;(

Make sure the MJ's rear diff has good fresh oil in it. I'd think you'll likely leak some fluid out of the transfer case if you remove the rear shaft, but the t-case won't be turning, so you should be OK. As far as "can the XJ do it". Yes, but: Dollys don't back up well, so be aware of that, just sayin' The braking power of the XJ will be your only brakes, make sure they're up to snuff. If you don't have an external tranny cooler, consider one. If you can get away with stick on lights (a towing kit) do that instead of relying on the MJ lights wired into the XJ. Congrats on the MJ, and welcome.

Update: FYI...this is how it's done. Works great, 1 mile in 59.8 seconds @ ~ 60 mph. Glad I can now pass information this along. Thanks all !!

Craigslist can be annoying in that most people don't take the time to list dimensions (or ever lern to spel or put a sentence together) or even post a stinkin' picture. They say things like "off a Ford" or " fits any long bed truck" or "fits all mini trucks". Most of the ones that have a picutre either have a stock photo or the thing is laying on the ground or leaning up against a barn. Campers from: S-10's ...are usually too short...height wise, and a little too narrow. Nissan/Datsun trucks are too small all around. Older Toyotas have a different angle at the cab. Newer Toyotas (Tundras) are too long, and Rangers are a little too long. Isuzu, Mitsubishi, Mazda trucks...too narrow. The only right way to do it is to GO and LOOK at a few...and take your tape measure. Some of the funky (IMHO) looking aluminum camper shells are good fits. I just sold a shell that did not fit my MJ, because of the angle at the cab sidewall. I passed on one with a wrong angle at the rear window.

You mean the donkey, right??

Actually...it helps alot. Which in concert with the above is my life story Thanks everyone for the education. Thanks johnnyc...for the short answer

Yes, thanks. The way I have it installed...when it doesn't work, the housing mark for the good gear is off 20 degrees. I have the mark pointing at the bolt which seemed more logical that the bottom edge of the hold-down fork where there is NO corresponding mark. The whole explanation (which is alot more entailed than I could ever imagine) comes down to where that mark is. The short answer for me would be: The mark that coincides with the correct gear range needs to be pointing at, or very near, the bottom tine of the hold-down fork. I'll try that and see what happens. I'm amazed that things that seem complicated are amazingly simple...and things that seem super simple actually have a whole engineering story behind them. Moral of story: I dunno, I still don't quite get how the larger diameter gear can mesh with the same drive gear just by turning the housing 1/8 turn. :???: . I'm not going to lose any sleep over it though...or am I ??? :yes:

I know how to remove the speedo gear on the t-case. I know that I need a different gear to adjust for my bigger tires. I thought it was just as easy as pop it out, pop it in. However, I noticed on the housong for the gear that there are numbers and marks. The marks coincide with the tooth count for the gear. 26-31, 32-38, 39-45 and a little line...for adjustment. My first question is...where on the t-case is the line supposed to line up with the line on the gear housing. The keeper bolt? Is there another line/mark I'm not finding. My second question is...are the HOUSINGS different... OR does the position of the housing make a difference. I had never noticed this before in all my ramblings under the Jeeps. Apparently I'm missing something. I have two different gears. They are both the same length, one has a slightly larger diameter. The smaller diameter one works...the larger diameter one does not. What's up??

I would not think the first thing to look at would be the steering box. The steering has lots of variables. Worn parts, poor alignment, funky tires etc. etc. First thing I'd do would be to look at the tie rod ends, ball joints etc. See if there is any play with the wheels on the ground, wheels off the ground, have someone sit inside and turn the wheel while you're underneath looking how it all moves. Use a big screwdriver to stick between componets and wiggle it around to see if anything is loose or bent. The SECOND thing I'd do is to clean up all the fluid/grease/crap/hoses. And then with the same person turning the wheel, while you are underneath, look for what is leaking. Is your P/S fluid topped off? Does the P/S moan and groan at full lock either way? When is the last time the fluid was changed? Flushed? After I looked at all that...then I might think I had a problem with the box. If the box was shot...I'd buy a new one and replace it, flush the fluid, replace the hoses and be done with it. Also, the manual steering does NOT use the pressure hoses that attach to the power steering pump. Nor do they use the power steering pump...because...well, it's not power steering. Read up on the adjustment. If you think it's within your ability range, try to adjust it. Otherwise, find a P/S box...you'll regret downgrading. The whole power steering system is pretty darn simple. Adjusting the box not as simple as just tightening a bolt without the possibility of damaging the box..

You need the floor bracket from an MJ...yours or another...but from an MJ because of the topography of the floor. Since the MJ floor and the XJ floor are shaped differently you'd need to remove the brackets from the MJ seats, bucket OR bench. There is only one bracket per side, driver and passenger side. Then you can put any pre 95 XJ or MJ seat on the brackets. Grind or drill the rivets off holding the bracket to the seat slider. Pre 95 XJ seats (sliders) will fit nicely on the MJ bracket. Given a little modification (like some flat stock welded or bolted on the brackets to accomodate your new sliders) you can swap just about any seat as long as it's dimensionally equivalent, provide you remove the floor bracket from them. Don't use the curved rocker (rocket) sliders unless you're only about 5'3". I'd send you some pics...but I'm at work.

Jeez dude, if people only asked questions that had never been asked, there wouldn't be much of a forum, would there!!? You scared off a noob!! I'd like to know the answer too. I've looked far and wide for a shell that actually fits and looks good. The people listing on CL just say "off a Chevy" or "fits any small truck". Nobody prints dimensions. Very frustrating. I don't know if there is a perfect shell for an MJ. S-10...too short height wise (and narrow)...older Yota, wrong angle at cab...I even tried one off an Isuzu truck...too narrow. The only one that I've seen actually fit are the aluminum ones. I don't personally like those, but they're light...seems like they'd be noisy

6 degrees over a full boil at sea level I have the old sensor from the donor vehicle, its located in the T-stat housing. Has anyone adapted the Renix to work off this sensor? The "sensor" in the radiator is not a sensor...it's a switch. The sensor to the ECU is in the block. The sender to the gauge is a sender.The sensor in the t-stat on later models is a sensor. There was rumored to be a switch from a GM (Corvette IIRC) that could be used in the Renix 4.0 with a 91+ t-stat housing. But the normal 91 type Jeep sensor won't work for the switch . This is why I put my fan on a manual switch when I swapped radiators. Boiling is still 212F at sea level. Which is not 218F I'd have to agree with Cruiser, that it's just possible that there may be a lack of circulation at the switch in the rad...or scale...or devils with little pitchforks screwing things up!!

I run hot under load too....I don't mean my truck, I mean me. Just physics...if it works harder it likely will get hotter. Why would you need to hack anything up?? If you want to put hood vents on it, just do a clean job...makes the Jeep look even better IMHO. If not, then don't. Good, you have an open cooling system. If you don't have a trans cooler...and I don't mean the little wimpy 3 inch by 12 inch one...and by "external" cooler, it means not the "heat exchanger" in the radiator, then you should invest in one to protect your tranny, and keep things cooler overall. You'll get more information if you participate in the discussion.

^^^^ THIS is the best and easiest way to do it if you are swapping in anything but MJ seats. when you do this you can swap in almost any kind of seat. Take care that the seat you're putting in is not too wide, too tall or too short...and do NOT use the rocker (rocket?) sliders if you are any taller than 5'5".

I'm a supervisor at a juvenile hall in far northern Calif. I teach kids how to work, how to get along, how to get a job, how to figure things out. Been there for 15 yrs. It's a stress free job, seriously. Before that I owned and operated a couple restaurants for 20+ years. I use to pay a bunch of shi heads to steal from me, snort coke in the bathroom, and smoke dope on the back patio. It was ALL stress, ALL the time.

...Or a 25 yr. old with no rust ANYWHERE.

My MJ had a stuck open t-stat. Wouldn't get past 160 after a twenty mile drive in cool weather...until I started going uphill...then it barely got to 190. Replaced it, problem solved.

Great, no time but the present to get it done! I didn't mean to come off condescending, I'm a dad, grandpa even (hell, I'm an old geezer!!) and I have 4 kids, all in their 20's and I work with teenagers and young adults. Can't help putting in my 2 cents. Sounds like you have it coming together nicely. Have a good trip. The smilies were toasting to your success. Do the gauges work now??

Wow, that's quite a list. I would personally tell my son to slow up and think about what you really NEED to do before you hit the road. Unless you have a big bag of money and lots and lots of time you will likely run out of both before you even get out of town. I'd say slow down, don't get over excited about the trip and covering every single possible, might happen, tiny, miniscule detail on your wish list. Having a cool sound bar won't mean squat if you're sitting on the side of the road with something really important left undone. Sounds like you have it covered EXCEPT for the backfiring issue. Since you can't adjust the timing on an EFI 4.0L I'd dive back in to adjusting your "new" TPS for starters. Unless your hamonic balancer is separating I'd leave it alone, replacing it won't fix a timing issue. If your doors are off, I'd put them back on since some of the states you'll be travelling through might not allow going doorless on the highway. Also weighing yourself down with all the extra stuff will hurt your mileage to an extent. I'd carry a quart or two of oil and maybe some tranny oil/fluid...but I assume there are towns all along the way that wiil likely have whatever you need, unless you're going via the back country. Sounds like a nice road trip trip...now get off the computer and get to work on that Jeep. :group beer: P.S. I'd put the doors back on if I were you. Some of the states you're traveling through might not allow going doorless on the highway.